My busa won’t start

This is all that happens when I turn the key, I can roll it over, it has spark, and the fan stays on constantly

59E64749-2B1C-4DF0-A525-90781313FB5F.jpeg
 
What's in your hand?

How is the battery, have you tested it?

If the battery is even weak a little it will raise all kinds of issues...

Why did the original engine have to be changed?

How does the rest of the bike look?
 
The other engine I have actually the chain popped off an broke the side casing and I was told it might have a crack in the block because it leaked oil out but I haven’t really messed with it, and i don’t know what that was in my hand in the first picture. I had the battery on charge but I might go get another battery
 
BusaCam said:
The other engine I have actually the chain popped off an broke the side casing and I was told it might have a crack in the block because it leaked oil out but I haven’t really messed with it, and i don’t know what that was in my hand in the first picture. I had the battery on charge but I might go get another battery
Click to expand...
Yes, when in doubt, get a battery you can trust....these things like their battery power....

Make sure the terminals are very clean......take a little steel wool to them.

So the drive chain came off....and wrecked the case....no other damage though?

I'm not sure what that box is in your hand, any writing on it?
 
Bumblebee said:
Yes, when in doubt, get a battery you can trust....these things like their battery power....

Make sure the terminals are very clean......take a little steel wool to them.

So the drive chain came off....and wrecked the case....no other damage though?

I'm not sure what that box is in your hand, any writing on it?
Click to expand...
he said the trans went bad in it cause you can wiggle where the shifter went a lot but idk what that box is either it was kinda just put up under the other wires
 
It looks like he used speaker wire on the fuel pump...

That bike needs to be returned to OEM....that box might be a TRE...other silverbacks will have to chime in here...

You definitely have your hands full with this bike.....

It looks like it's been rode hard and put away wet on more than one occasion....

Hopefully you can sort it out and save it but it isn't going to be an inexpensive venture to do so...
 
Bumblebee said:
It looks like he used speaker wire on the fuel pump...

That bike needs to be returned to OEM....that box might be a TRE...other silverbacks will have to chime in here...

You definitely have your hands full with this bike.....

It looks like it's been rode hard and put away wet on more than one occasion....

Hopefully you can sort it out and save it but it isn't going to be an inexpensive venture to do so...
Click to expand...
I plan on it, I was rolling it over an the wire on the fuel pump starting smoking so ima take the gas tank off an mess with the fuel pump wiring an try to fix it. Also the bike rolls over very slowly, I bought this battery little bigger than the old battery a few weeks back an it’s still good so I put it on the bike an it just rolls over very slowly even with jumper cables on hooked up it doesn’t change a thing rolls over same speed but this motor in the bike hasn’t ran on this bike yet that’s why I want to check for codes on it to see what’s all wrong, the previous owner may have neglected the bike but I plan to fix it an make it beautiful again
 
BusaCam said:
I plan on it, I was rolling it over an the wire on the fuel pump starting smoking so ima take the gas tank off an mess with the fuel pump wiring an try to fix it. Also the bike rolls over very slowly, I bought this battery little bigger than the old battery a few weeks back an it’s still good so I put it on the bike an it just rolls over very slowly even with jumper cables on hooked up it doesn’t change a thing rolls over same speed but this motor in the bike hasn’t ran on this bike yet that’s why I want to check for codes on it to see what’s all wrong, the previous owner may have neglected the bike but I plan to fix it an make it beautiful again
Click to expand...
So the motor in the bike hasn't been run....

The battery is new and even with booster cables on the bike turns over very slowly?

Sounds like something is off...how does the oil look?

How do the spark plugs look?

I'd definitely get the wiring sorted out before the thing catches fire....with all the bastardization of that wiring, I suspect something has shorted and maybe fried a few sensors/switches....I suspect there may be issues with one or more of those...

It looks like the bike has been over maybe more than once,

And that fuel pump doesn't look new.

Make sure you have a manual. this will help you quite a bit.
 
Bumblebee said:
So the motor in the bike hasn't been run....

The battery is new and even with booster cables on the bike turns over very slowly?

Sounds like something is off...how does the oil look?

How do the spark plugs look?

I'd definitely get the wiring sorted out before the thing catches fire....with all the bastardization of that wiring, I suspect something has shorted and maybe fried a few sensors/switches....I suspect there may be issues with one or more of those...

It looks like the bike has been over maybe more than once,

And that fuel pump doesn't look new.

Make sure you have a manual. this will help you quite a bit.
Click to expand...
Bumblebee said:
So the motor in the bike hasn't been run....

The battery is new and even with booster cables on the bike turns over very slowly?

Sounds like something is off...how does the oil look?

How do the spark plugs look?

I'd definitely get the wiring sorted out before the thing catches fire....with all the bastardization of that wiring, I suspect something has shorted and maybe fried a few sensors/switches....I suspect there may be issues with one or more of those...

It looks like the bike has been over maybe more than once,

And that fuel pump doesn't look new.

Make sure you have a manual. this will help you quite a bit.
Click to expand...
Yeah I do need a manual but I haven’t checked the spark plugs yet an all I’ve checked was to see if there was oil in the motor I haven’t messed with it to much cause of work an I know the pump doesn’t look new that’s why I wanted to get another, but the bike does have compression some good compression actually
 
BusaCam said:
Yeah I do need a manual but I haven’t checked the spark plugs yet an all I’ve checked was to see if there was oil in the motor I haven’t messed with it to much cause of work an I know the pump doesn’t look new that’s why I wanted to get another, but the bike does have compression some good compression actually
Click to expand...
At least you saved it from a bike wrecking yard...

But you will be pulling your hair out before long trying to chase the gremlins...
 
Bumblebee said:
At least you saved it from a bike wrecking yard...

But you will be pulling your hair out before long trying to chase the gremlins...
Click to expand...
most likely and yeah I’m very glad I have the chance to save this bike, I plan on making it the color it came from factory. But as of right now I’m taking all the wires off to the fuel pump to check for shorts an to do it the right way around
 
You need a multimeter set on volts, check the voltage at the battery, should be at least 12.5v.

Then check the voltage drop while "rolling" (cranking) the engine with the starter motor.
If the voltage drops below 10v, you either have a faulty or flat battery, a bad connection or bad cable from the battery to the starter, or a bad ground connection between battery and the chassis/engine, OR a faulty (bad) starter motor.
This (above) is the testing regime for the starting system.

Connections and condition of cables from battery to starter motor and chassis/engine ground are absolutely critical, MUST be clean and secure/tight along with, of course, the battery condition., MUST be fully charged!

The cooling fan running all the time may be as simple as a faulty thermo-switch in the radiator, but may also be caused by a ECM fault.
Test the thermo-switch first to eliminate that as the fault... or not.

Remove the spark plugs, bin them, and get a new set of plugs.
If the plugs have a fat blue spark while cranking the engine, all good.

The wiring situation you have there is like a 5 year old child has been playing with it.
Rewire it with the correct gauge wire and follow diagrams and wiring diagram from the SERVICE MANUAL.
Get a NEW fuel pump preferably, or a GOOD tested used item.

You will need to test fuel pressure with ignition on and cranking... must be 3 bar (42psi)
You will also need to test for pulse at injector connectors using a 'noid' lamp. (google it)
If there is injector wire pulse but still not firing, remove the injectors, leave the connectors on them, and crank the engine, is there fuel spraying from them? Yes, GOOD, no, BAD. faulty or clogged injectors.

Once you have established these critical tests and followed this procedure, let us all know the results.
All the best with this mate, you certainly have a dream, and a goal, and your hands full lol.
 
Last edited:
Kiwi Rider said:
You need a multimeter set on volts, check the voltage at the battery, should be at least 12.5v.

Then check the voltage drop while "rolling" (cranking) the engine with the starter motor.
If the voltage drops below 10v, you either have a faulty or flat battery, a bad connection or bad cable from the battery to the starter, or a bad ground connection between battery and the chassis/engine, OR a faulty (bad) starter motor.
This (above) is the testing regime for the starting system.

Connections and condition of cables from battery to starter motor and chassis/engine ground are absolutely critical, MUST be clean and secure/tight along with, of course, the battery condition., MUST be fully charged!

The cooling fan running all the time may be as simple as a faulty thermo-switch in the radiator, but may also be caused by a ECM fault.
Test the thermo-switch first to eliminate that as the fault... or not.

Remove the spark plugs, bin them, and get a new set of plugs.
If the plugs have a fat blue spark while cranking the engine, all good.

The wiring situation you have there is like a 5 year old child has been playing with it.
Rewire it with the correct gauge wire and follow diagrams and wiring diagram from the SERVICE MANUAL.
Get a NEW fuel pump preferably, or a GOOD tested used item.

You will need to test fuel pressure with ignition on and cranking... must be 3 bar (42psi)
You will also need to test for pulse at injector connectors using a 'noid' lamp. (google it)
If there is injector wire pulse but still not firing, remove the injectors, leave the connectors on them, and crank the engine, is there fuel spraying from them? Yes, GOOD, no, BAD. faulty or clogged injectors.

Once you have established these critical tests and followed this procedure, let us all know the results.
All the best with this mate, you certainly have a dream, and a goal, and your hands full lol.
Click to expand...
I highly appreciate all of your help, I took the gas tank off an got the fuel pump out an it was some filthy rust colored gas in it I got some pics of how he had the pump ran

11A31357-2D96-4C5B-A6C5-68FE60C24662.jpeg


4237BC40-B730-4B4D-93A3-B0AC2B28DAC9.jpeg
 
Also when I rolled the bike over earlier I used starting fluid just to bust it off but it didn’t even fire still busted off a little
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Peteypistol
01 Busa won’t start
Replies
4
Views
951
Kiwi Rider
Kiwi Rider
H
Busy Won’t start
Replies
6
Views
1,343
Berlin Germany
Berlin Germany
Huntercs10
My 08 busa won’t start
Replies
8
Views
1,265
Kiwi Rider
Kiwi Rider
C
Fuel pump no power
Replies
4
Views
1,904
Mr Brown
Mr Brown
Z
Won’t go past 7k rpm
Replies
13
Views
2,071
Greengrassriver
G
Back
Top