I’m pretty sure this is a record for the most HP ever made on a factory stock gen 2 hayabusa.
(Pump gas wastegate 4.8 psi 258hp previously)
X98 wastegate 281hp
X98 7.4 psi 308 hp
X98 9.4 psi 330 hp
I’ve waited years to try this, and I’ve learned a few things because of it.
1. I did find the max boost for stock valve springs. If you look at the dyno graph on the 9psi pull its about 500rpm shorter then the lower boost runs. If run all the way to 11,600 rpm power started to drop only slightly. Even running to 11,100 rpm you can see at the very end power is just starting not to follow the trends of the other two runs.
2. Knowing I was going to be on the limits of the stock head gasket, and head bolts I tuned in 500rpm increments and kept close tabs on the level of the coolant. When I made the pull to 8500rpm which is where it ended up making peak torque on 7psi, it appeared to push a little bit of water. Makes sense as peak torque is where cylinder pressures are at their highest. I ramped a bit of timing out before peak torque and then back in after and never appeared to have pushed water again even after repeating the tuning process at 9.5 psi, and 4 or 5 1/4 mile hits on the dyno.
If anyone can show that it’s been documented somewhere that a factory stock gen 2 Busa has made more power please share. This definitely isn’t a simple just turn the boost up and keep the afr’s in check kind of situation. There’s many other variables I had to keep my eye on to make sure it stayed together. There’s no telling how long it will last like this, but I’d like to make a few visits to the track before i do anything to the engine. I know the rods will be fine, but if I can keep it out of the limiter I think it will last a little while.
Another cool thing worth noting is the bike actually has factory injectors. However I modified the secondaries. So now they flow 70lbs vs 23lbs in stock form.
And lastly, I’m using boost control through the stock ecu as well. Years ago a lot of guys were against it saying the boost was inconsistent and wavy. This is true if you if your settings aren’t correct. But more importantly it depends on what brand/model of boost control solenoid you’re using. I’ve found one particular model thats deadly consistent when used with the stock ecu even if you’re settings aren’t spot on.
Wait till you see what’s up my sleeve next.
(Pump gas wastegate 4.8 psi 258hp previously)
X98 wastegate 281hp
X98 7.4 psi 308 hp
X98 9.4 psi 330 hp
I’ve waited years to try this, and I’ve learned a few things because of it.
1. I did find the max boost for stock valve springs. If you look at the dyno graph on the 9psi pull its about 500rpm shorter then the lower boost runs. If run all the way to 11,600 rpm power started to drop only slightly. Even running to 11,100 rpm you can see at the very end power is just starting not to follow the trends of the other two runs.
2. Knowing I was going to be on the limits of the stock head gasket, and head bolts I tuned in 500rpm increments and kept close tabs on the level of the coolant. When I made the pull to 8500rpm which is where it ended up making peak torque on 7psi, it appeared to push a little bit of water. Makes sense as peak torque is where cylinder pressures are at their highest. I ramped a bit of timing out before peak torque and then back in after and never appeared to have pushed water again even after repeating the tuning process at 9.5 psi, and 4 or 5 1/4 mile hits on the dyno.
If anyone can show that it’s been documented somewhere that a factory stock gen 2 Busa has made more power please share. This definitely isn’t a simple just turn the boost up and keep the afr’s in check kind of situation. There’s many other variables I had to keep my eye on to make sure it stayed together. There’s no telling how long it will last like this, but I’d like to make a few visits to the track before i do anything to the engine. I know the rods will be fine, but if I can keep it out of the limiter I think it will last a little while.
Another cool thing worth noting is the bike actually has factory injectors. However I modified the secondaries. So now they flow 70lbs vs 23lbs in stock form.
And lastly, I’m using boost control through the stock ecu as well. Years ago a lot of guys were against it saying the boost was inconsistent and wavy. This is true if you if your settings aren’t correct. But more importantly it depends on what brand/model of boost control solenoid you’re using. I’ve found one particular model thats deadly consistent when used with the stock ecu even if you’re settings aren’t spot on.
Wait till you see what’s up my sleeve next.