How to lube chain?

[MeltDownZ]

Never owned a chain drive before. Read the manual. How to apply the heavy motor oil... with an oil can squarter thing? How much?

Also, the bike, recently bought used, has got 10,000 miles. I don't know the upkeep the chain has had. Manual says to measure the distance to the 21st chain-axil to determine if the chain has any life left. In the meantime, if the chain is worn, is it likely to fly off and tear the heck out of my leg?

Also, how much should I figure on spending for a new one with sprockets? I do need new front and rear sprockets when I change the chain - right?

Thanks!

 

[justintime2]

I wouldn't spend a whole lot of time measure links and stuff. I also wouldn't use oil, too messy. Get a can of aerosol chain wax and use it instead. It sticks to the chain better and is far less messy. First clean the chain well with kerosene, you can get anywhere pretty cheap, and then apply the chain wax according to directions. Which is usually for a 5 min. ride to warm up the chain and then apply the wax.

Also make the sure the chain is adjusted properly. When the chain is cold it should have just about 1 inch of slack in the middle bottom.

Any bike shop should be able to look at the chain and condition of the sprockets for an assessment of replacement status. Someone else will have to help on the costs and places to buy, I don't know.

 

[Juggler]

What justintime2 said.

The chain wax is good stuff, although it too can make a mess if you put too much on, or don't allow it to cool. I think the manufacturer recommendation is to ride around for 15 minutes or so to get the chain warm, then spray the lube on, and let the chain cool for a few hours, so the lube sets.

 

[MeltDownZ]

Thanks guys.

 

[Narcissus]

If you want the chain to last a long time, I'd go the oil route. For the seasonal rider, though, chain wax should do fine.


I now have about 25K miles on my current chain and it is still well within the service limit.

Every 150-300 miles (or about every fill-up or twice a fill-up), I put mine on stands after riding. With the engine running and in gear, I squirt diesel on the chain for two or three rounds and follow up with a brush on the rollers. Then I apply a line of gear oil for another couple rounds. The process takes less than two minutes (and, yes, I know enough not to use loose rags or place my hands into the spinning sprocket).

Again, go through that only if you ride a lot and want the chain to last and don't mind a bit of cleanup around the kickstand and wheel (which usually builds up with brake dust anyway). You can also get a Scottoiler, Hawkeoiler, or the likes for auto-lubing.

 

[MeltDownZ]

Follow up question... my bike has been lowered 2". Is there any problem getting a lowered bike up on a stand. If not, I'll get myself a stand.

Second question... because the bike is lowered, I cannot get it onto the centerstand by myself. I was thinking of removing the centerstand if I have a cart-type stand. I figure lose the weight. Any reason why not to do this?

 

[macbusa]

"Every 150-300 miles (or about every fill-up or twice a fill-up), I put mine on stands after riding. With the engine running and in gear, I squirt diesel on the chain for two or three rounds and follow up with a brush on the rollers. Then I apply a line of gear oil  for another couple rounds. The process takes less than two minutes (and, yes, I know enough not to use loose rags or place my hands into the spinning sprocket)."

I would recommend against cleaning/adjusting the chain with the bike in gear and the engine running -- thats a good way to loose a finger! Just my .02...

 

[Narcissus]

See my last comment in that post.

I dunno, it's kind of akin to advising people not to use power tools. But, yeah, if you can't operate a mitre saw or a drill press without getting decapitated, definitely leave the engine off.

 

[BulletTrain]

Follow up question... my bike has been lowered 2".  Is there any problem getting a lowered bike up on a stand.  If not, I'll get myself a stand.

Second question... because the bike is lowered, I cannot get it onto the centerstand by myself.  I was thinking of removing the centerstand if I have a cart-type stand.  I figure lose the weight.  Any reason why not to do this?

No problems gettin' it up on a Pit Bull (or similar) stand because the distance between the ground and the spools on the swingarm won't change with lowering. I think you're talkin' about a cart type lift that goes underneath the bike where the center stand is.

Get a Pit Bull rear stand (or similar) and spools for the swingarm and the fact that your bike is lowered won't make any difference... Here's a pic showing the Pit Bull rear holdin' Da' Train up for repairs...



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[Mikey D]

Visually check out the sprockets.  the easiest way to check for wear is the teeth should be symetrical (same shape on both sides).  Also, grap a link on the back of the chain and pull it rearwards.  it should move less than 1/8"


BT - Da train looks schweet even half nekkid!

 

[UR IT!]

I'm with Train...The Pit Bull rear stand is the best way to go IMHO....It comes in handy......bigtime!!



Dan

 

[Mikey D]

Does the Pit Bull stand come with the spools?

 

[UR IT!]

Are you kidding? How would they ever stay in business without making you pay for everything separate? If I remember right they're like $20 extra or something like that...


Dan

 

[Mikey D]

Are you kidding? How would they ever stay in business without making you pay for everything separate? If I remember right they're like $20 extra or something like that...


Dan

Sorry, my bad. What was I thinking?

 

[Gpirelli]

BT, its always a pleasure to look at your Busa...your pic looks like it should be in a magazine. I dig the windscreen BTW

 

[billbell]

I know I definitely need to check into stands. I am getting tired of moving the bike back and forth to clean and lube the chain

 

[Jonny Hotnuts]

You should always change your sprockets and chains as a set.
I have seen people put a new chain on old sprockets and in a week the chain was as bad as the one they removed. If the teeth are worn they will not mesh correctly to the links in the new chain causing uneven pressure on the rollers.

I know this sounds basic but I am shocked how many times I have seen this.

Just a suggestion.

 

[TIMMYDUCK]

Chapparel is the cheapest package going.
RK 530GWX (10800lbs) highest tensil strength chain available with OEM sprocket kit is $ 215 delivered.
My girl feels like soft butter with the change over at 16000 miles.
Plus it is guaranteed for 20000 miles ,so I took digitials of the work being done by your truly.
Just in case it comes up.

 

[k2tbg]

I am a new owner of a 2004 Purple/Black Busa.....

Watched my dealer do the 600 mile check.....

Chain Wax is the best.......he used alot and almost buffed the chain in the process.....

They say it doesn't attract dirt like oil and decreases the friction on the sprocket......

All a good thing I would say.....