horsepower loss with 6 inch arm???

I am looking to add 6 inch arm to my Gen 1. what kind of hp loss does the dyno typically show? this bike has your basic bolt on stuff so i would guess hp is around 170-175....this is still a street bike so most of my racing is 30-40 mph rolling starts......thanks

Whats your stock gearing and weight?
 
It does pretty damn good I wont lie!! We have it on my buddys 63" bolton gen1 with spray!!
I was entertaining the Power 1 (if I cud find one) but I just cant see how it would work better then my Shinko does.

I do quite a bit of street riding both city and highway and was thinkn the Power 1 might be more stable at higher speeds but im not sure I want to screw with something that works so well.

but maybe the Power 1 would work better. seems like quite a few ppl run them and those that do swear by them but I question if they ever used a hook-up to compare.
 
I was entertaining the Power 1 (if I cud find one) but I just cant see how it would work better then my Shinko does.

I do quite a bit of street riding both city and highway and was thinkn the Power 1 might be more stable at higher speeds but im not sure I want to screw with something that works so well.

but maybe the Power 1 would work better. seems like quite a few ppl run them and those that do swear by them but I question if they ever used a hook-up to compare.

From what im told by my tuner there is night and day difference from the power 1 and the hook up.. He as 2 PST busas that have power 1's on and says when he goes too the events thats what all the PST busas run. Not real sure the life span of it though
 
From what im told by my tuner there is night and day difference from the power 1 and the hook up.. He as 2 PST busas that have power 1's on and says when he goes too the events thats what all the PST busas run. Not real sure the life span of it though
I hear the same thing. I mean, ppl that talk about them dont even hesitate to recommend them and ur right most guys ive seen at the track are running the power 1. I just question if they work better at the track vs. the street but id think they would last longer then the hook-up but maybe im wrong.

I think im gonna search for one and give it a shot this year. I can always switch back it it doesnt work as well on the street.
 
The U soft worked well for me, but the Hook is even better. Yes, they are heavy, but for bracket racing, I don't care.... Plus, they are cheap! My project bike has a Pilot Pure on it, in a 180-55 size, and it hooks quite well for me. But with my lighter buddy, it just spins.
 
I hear the same thing. I mean, ppl that talk about them dont even hesitate to recommend them and ur right most guys ive seen at the track are running the power 1. I just question if they work better at the track vs. the street but id think they would last longer then the hook-up but maybe im wrong.

I think im gonna search for one and give it a shot this year. I can always switch back it it doesnt work as well on the street.

My Power 1 has lasted twice as long as the Shinko Stealth with street riding and drag racing. P1 takes a little more of a burn out to heat up but it handles it just fine. However, good luck finding them because they have been discontinued and unless you can find a shop with them on a hand, you aren't getting one.

I have never used a Hook-Up. The P1 was originally designed for road racing so it should be twice the street tire a Hook-Up is because it actually has a side wall to lean over on
 
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Not sure on the Busa but my Gixxer 1100 I added that length, I could care less about the HP since I was dragging at the track all I know is I dropped about 2 tenths on average after it. That is the pertinent number if speed is goal. If talking numbers is your thing the only really thing to do is Dyno it on your bike but the number is pretty arbitrary.
 
adding length too any bike will help with ET..... I was reffering too launch the same swb vs stretched the bike did loose mph... Once I took advantage of being stretched and my tuner installed my RSM hand slider I went from 10.0's@138 to 9.50's@143............




the reason DMAX is asking is because roll racing or highway pulls is only about MPH and Horsepower..............60FT AND 330FT mean nothing

DMAX too answer your question the best way I can is too tell you my experiance.... When my bike was swb I did alot of street racing with it... At swb the bike was making 170whp with a 17/40 gearing.. With the strap loose I would do 1st gear 7000rpm blasts.. the front tire would come up 8-12" on the hit! with the strap down it wouldnt lift at all... But once I changed the gearing too 16/42..........shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhxxxt!!! No more 1st rolls.. Try too flip the beep over with the quickness.. once it was stretched no more wheelies!! It would just launch..

I could race my buddy that was 265lbs on his gen 1 busa..bike made 156whp with dumps and tune.. He was lowered,63",strapped,stealth tire and 16/42.. vs me at 220lbs gen 1 170whp lowered,strapped,swb 16/42... he would leave me like I was standing still.. I wouldnt catch him till 150mph because I would have too leave in the bottom of 2nd to match their speeds but not stand straight up.

So if you stretch it.............................regear it!
 
thanks for all the feedback!! I understand the benifits of the longer bike in very slow ( 1st gear) take off situations. however, my primary use is around 50mph plus. I run with alot of stock length 1000's and they never want to go from a dead stop or a slow roll due to the wheelies those bikes are prone to do so i am trying not to give up any MPH.

Teezy....to answer your question about the gearing. I have ran 16/42 & 17/40 and i am currently about 195lbs suited.

has anyone done any comparisions between O-ring, non oring chains?
 
Here's my 175whp bike at 9 over. Complete OEM clutch set-up w/ 1.46 60 ft. Carried the tire about 4-5in off the ground every time

stanton3_zpsbe07de98.jpg

can you share the ET & mph you ran in this configuration?
 
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My Power 1 has lasted twice as long as the Shinko Stealth with street riding and drag racing. P1 takes a little more of a burn out to heat up but it handles it just fine. However, good luck finding them because they have been discontinued and unless you can find a shop with them on a hand, you aren't getting one.

I have never used a Hook-Up. The P1 was originally designed for road racing so it should be twice the street tire a Hook-Up is because it actually has a side wall to lean over on
yea I dont do any corner carving with my bike but the fact that it will last twice as long sure is enticing. what size P1 were you running?
 
can you share the ET & mph you ran in this configuration?

9.2x-9.3x @ 146-148mph. I never had a solid working clutch in the bike so I held it back from doing any better. We figured out on one of my better runs than I bogged the 60ft on, it would have been around a 9.18 @ 149.

yea I dont do any corner carving with my bike but the fact that it will last twice as long sure is enticing. what size P1 were you running?

190/50x17. I was lucky enough that my buddy gave me his for this year with about 80% tread left too so I should be set for this season
 
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