Hard Braking Question

OB_Felix Da Cat

Registered
Hi Guys,

I've had my '00 for a month now. I've had 4 occasions where I had to break a little harder and have found that the bike gets all "squirrily". It feels like the rear tyre is hopping or something like that. This has happenned mainly when coming to a set of lights.

I don't race or ride hard, but do tend enjoy my speed, especially with the lack of effective speed controls here. Perhaps some of you can give me some tips. I normally use the 80% front/20% rear braking method and gears. On 3 occasions it happened in 2nd, and this morning in 3rd.

All comments welcome.
 
The rear locks real easy if you are hard braking on the front (you know, the MSF weight transfer stuff) - You're probably locking up the rear and not realizing it. It doesn't squeel so you won't hear it - you'll feel it.

A buddy pointed out to me that I was locking my rear tire a lot and I was completely unaware of it. Went to a parking lot (helmet off so I could hear better) and did some maximuim braking drills. Sure enough, the rear locks right up with much less pedal force than I was normally applying. There was no tire squeel, just the sliding sadpaper sound.
 
hey felix, dont worry about it to much. eventually you will see the methods involved to brake really hard and not get the front squirly. it just takes practice and a lot of goofing around.Oh yeah , it is good the brake locks up so easily. how else can you slide it in a turn with more fun.lol.
 
Yeah,
It has a rear brake,and it locks very quickly.If you are stopping in the straight,leave it locked and apply more front.I am,of course,refering to "panic" or emergency type braking situations.
Be safe and practice those hard stops.
B21
 
I found I was using my rear brake too much in panic situations. One busa owner told me he hardly uses his rear at all. I tried that and it worked. Now I make sure that I am stopping with my front brake before I even apply any rear brake pressure. Worked everytime.

soja
 
Don't be afraid to lock the rear tire in this type of situation.The rear brake is there for a reason,and it is not to slide into turns.20-30% could be the difference between stopping in time or not.
Take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation rider course.You will get to practice these types of things in a controlled environment.
I do agree,that most riders do not use enough front brake.But,if you have the back locked,and you NEED to stop,don't let off.The friction being generated by the back tire is a GOOD thing in this instance.The "squirrelly" feeling is the back end trying to come around because of erratic steering inputs.
B21
 
S*HIT if you don't know how stop this bike properly and safely, and by some of the above comments mention it sounds like maybe most of you need lessons, hell you shouldn't be riding this bike! Did you guys just start riding? Go take a motorcycle saftey course and learn! it might save your live and someone elses too!!!
 
I found out the other day that the rear brake is the same unit used on the TL1000r/s and GSXR750/600 they also use the same front discs but the 600 only has four pot calipers which means either the 600 has very hot brakes or the Hayabusas are next to usless.
 
DONT FORGET YOUR REAR BRAKE. When you have to brake real hard, it's wery important that you go on your rear first. When you do that, the bike will be pushed down, now you push your front hard (just before locking the front).
The pressure on the rear will now almost be gone. This will make your rear lock, but don’t move your right foot from the brake, just fold your toes in order to decrease pressure on the rear brake.

This takes a lot of practice. Take the safety courses, I did, 3 times and I am still not perfect, but getting better.

TAKE THE COURSES.
 
If your locking the rear brake that easily you might not be in gear while braking. If you keep the RPMs up (in gear), it should be hard to lock the rear. You must use the engine and trans right up a complete stop (every gear). Only pull it out of gear just before you stop. Locking the rear brake is dangerous. Some practice is needed to prevent this from happening.

Koz

[This message has been edited by Bill Koz (edited 07 August 2000).]
 
You dont have time to think when you really "need" to stop. I am talking about stopping at a shortest possible time. You need to go on the brakes really hard. 1 rear 2 front with only a split second between the two.
 
I haven't taken a MSF course, but I've been riding a long time and I spent all of last year's disposable income roadracing at the club level (endurance and sprints). I never touched the back brake of the race bike (Honda F3) the entire season. The only time I use it on the street ('00 Busa) is for light braking or at intersections where there may be a lot of car "juice" on the ground. Under hard braking on the racetrack, it's not uncommon for the rear tire to hop as weight transfers off the tire and the resistance of the engine at high revs causes the rear to start skidding on its own. Decreasing rebound damping on the rear shock will help reduce this tendency. If you have the presence of mind you can also pull the clutch in a little to eliminate the tire skid. With the back torque limiting feature of the stock clutch, I'm surprised that you would experience wheel hop on the street.

Under hard braking, my recommendation is to forget you even have a back brake. Let the engine resistance do your rear braking for you. Trying to panic brake with a skidding/hopping rear wheel is an invitation for disaster.
 
F*ucking Barry alright!!, at least there's maybe one person here who knows how to brake!
I don't know if i want to ride with some of these other crazy bastards!!F*uck they'll probably run me over,or of the road,or something!
 
70/30,70% front brakes and 30 % rear brakes,I almost never use my REAR brakes always my fronts and down shift.Practice Practice Practice. Good Luck
 
On a stiffly sprung road racing bike excessive weight transfer is not a problem so the rear brake can be ignored.

On a heavy softly sprung bike like the Busa, the rear suspension unloads raising the rear and transfers the weight forward in an uncontrolled manor which can lead to the rear wheel leaving pavement at an alarming rate, “Rocket†Ron Haslam used to run really soft setups even on his race bikes, and so to control this weight transfer dabbed the rear brake to lower the rears centre of gravity before applying the front – I ride the same way on my Busa (never touched the rear brake on the R1 unless…)

In wet weather you’ll never be able to brake hard enough to unload the rear unless you are on an exceptionally grippy surface or you are running racing wets! – In this case the rear brake is valuable and will reduce overall stopping distances substantially.

Find a quiet stretch of road and take along some chalk, try different techniques of stopping (starting slowly at say 30MPH and work you way up) mark a line where you start to brake and then mark where you stopped and what speed you were riding plus the technique employed ie FO (front only) BF (Back First) FR (Front Rear) etc.

After a while you’ll work out the way that’s best for you/your bike and riding style.

Also practice locking the front and then letting it off the split second it locks (try at very slow speed at first (20MPH) ) after doing this for a while letting the brake off when it locks becomes second nature and it may save your life one day.

If you’ve the confidence repeat the above exercise in the wet.
 
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