Hard Brake Lever?

D

DenisTheMenace

Registered
I recently converted to ZX14 wheels and a single rotor set up. I have a Galfer front rotor and front braided line. I bled the brake line and have brake lever now but the brake lever is harder than normal, is that OK with the new braided line? I've never had new brakes so I'm not sure how they are supposed to feel? There isn't much "mush" in the lever at all, very firm lever.

Any ideas?
 
DenisTheMenace said:
I recently converted to ZX14 wheels and a single rotor set up. I have a Galfer front rotor and front braided line. I bled the brake line and have brake lever now but the brake lever is harder than normal, is that OK with the new braided line? I've never had new brakes so I'm not sure how they are supposed to feel? There isn't much "mush" in the lever at all, very firm lever.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

There shouldn't be any 'mush' with any good brake line. The Teflon 'tube' does not flex inside the braided SS lines like the OEM rubber brake lines do. A firm lever is to be expected with braided SS brake lines. Having said that, there could be something else involved since you're apparently? using the OEM master cylinder. It was engineered to hold enough fluid to accommodate a pair of brake lines and a pair of very large calipers. More pressure than necessary may be being applied compared to what you've been used to. Be careful not to have an unexpected stoppie as you learn your new brakes. I had to, when I went to SS lines but even more so when I changed to EBC HH brake pads! Damn what a difference....
 
CBXRider said:
There shouldn't be any 'mush' with any good brake line. The Teflon 'tube' does not flex inside the braided SS lines like the OEM rubber brake lines do. A firm lever is to be expected with braided SS brake lines. Having said that, there could be something else involved since you're apparently? using the OEM master cylinder. It was engineered to hold enough fluid to accommodate a pair of brake lines and a pair of very large calipers. More pressure than necessary may be being applied compared to what you've been used to. Be careful not to have an unexpected stoppie as you learn your new brakes. I had to, when I went to SS lines but even more so when I changed to EBC HH brake pads! Damn what a difference....
Click to expand...

It could be that the rotor is brand new, thick pads and taking some time to break in? I rode the other day and it felt fine stopping wise, just had to use more strength then before to pull the lever back. I thought it was air in system and bled again and still hard. Guess ill ride it out!

In the mean time, here is a picture of my bike with the 14R wheels!

11ij1nc.jpg
 
sixpack577 said:
You'll never notice the weight loss.:laugh:
You will notice the lack of stopping power, the one caliper and rotor will heat and fade faster.
Click to expand...

There are numerous discussions about this, it's been done for a long time, there are bikes that trap 170mph in the 1/4 and running single front rotor and stop without an issue. I've ran single rotor for couple years now on my 1Ks and Hayabusa and never had any issues. I don't daily my bike or ride in stop and go traffic so not worried about the heat, fading or warping.

My 1441 Nitrous Hayabusa with BSTs & Single Rotor Setup. I rode/raced two years on it and never an issue!
2nbuade.jpg
 
DenisTheMenace said:
There are numerous discussions about this, it's been done for a long time, there are bikes that trap 170mph in the 1/4 and running single front rotor and stop without an issue. I've ran single rotor for couple years now on my 1Ks and Hayabusa and never had any issues. I don't daily my bike or ride in stop and go traffic so not worried about the heat, fading or warping.

My 1441 Nitrous Hayabusa with BSTs & Single Rotor Setup. I rode/raced two years on it and never an issue!
2nbuade.jpg
Click to expand...

There's also a big difference in stopping after a 1/4 mile track, or more gradual from a higher speed straightline.
As opposed to knee dragging and repeated late hard braking on good curves street riding; which is what my brain automatically thinks of.
To each their own:beerchug:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Doing nothing more than removing one front caliper will make the lever much firmer. I don't notice any loss of brake performance at the drag strip with one rotor.
 
At the risk of stating the obvious, when you take off one caliper you essentially double the size of the master cylinder, as it is pushing fluid for 2 calipers. This to me is a bigger safety risk than reducing your braking power on a bike with already marginal brakes by half. :soapbox:

Anyway, be very careful as it will be very easy to make a braking mistake with this setup. You could try putting an aftermarket clutch MC on front brake or maybe find a bike with a smaller MC. That might get you back some feeling to modulate the brakes safely in street situations. It would also be an expensive experiment, maybe $200-1000 depending on the quality of the parts you use and how many times it takes two get it right.
 
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