The only “jumping” I get is when I put it in gear from neutral. (...)
hell - it is very difficult for me to explain the technique in english but i´ll try to.
therefore, please read my text with the utmost indulgence.
A. MY "jumping" means that the clutch seems not to know what to do - grip or no grip
as if you pull and release very quick the handle - i call this the "kangaroo - feeling"
B. please remember that in principle, you must note that when inserting the first gear (from neutral) and standing bike actually every motorcycle a very little forward jerks - even with optimal clutch.
the more it tries to jerk forward, when inserting the first gear, the greater the likelihood is that
a - there is still air in the system
b - the friction and steel plates slightly stick (if the engine is cold or has stood longer times, e.g. 4-5 months over winter)
c - if the engine is
hot, the DOT is old (over 2-3 years) and might have drawn water (DOT "4" or "5.1" is hygroscopic) which
then forms vapor bubbles in the system what´s the same feeling is like air in system
if pt. a - bleed as usual again and if this still doesn´t work, do the bleeding the other way around - means downside up
by bleeding the clutch-slave at first
- by opening the upper reservoir and empty it + get rid of the black mud
- get the DOT-bottle reachable !
- unscrew hose and banjo bolt at slave
- unscrew the slave itself (only by puting off the entire front sprocket cover)
- release slowly slave´s piston as far out it wants to go / the spring behind moves him but piston can´t fall out
- keep the slave´s inner thread vertikal up and fill carefully the slave by a syringe till there is no more air inside / perhaps the DOT flows over a very little bit - wipe that away
- mount now again hose and tighten its banjo bolt as tight as possible in your hand (pay big attention to hose´s later correct position)
- now push / press slowly the piston back into slave what makes the DOT "climb" the way up to handpump and - yeah - bleeding same time the hose (
X) and filling the upper reservoir a little bit - attention - if you press the piston to hard you will have a fountain upside and the DOT all over the bike
- keep the cylinder tight inside slave and fill up with your other hand (DOT-bottle is, i hope, easily reachable / very near by) the upper reservoir up to its inner mark
- release then the slave´s piston slowly and watch by that the level up in the reservoir & refill a bit again till mark
- mount slave (sprocket cover - its 6 mm screws get 10 Nm) and tighten now the banjo bolt with 22 Nm
- mount reservoir´s lid/cap (screws only 3 Nm) and you´re finished with clutch bleeding
if pt. b - leave it as it is - to me it seems normal
if you wanna give 110% to your clutch :
put the friction plates out, bathe them in oil, then wipe them off a bit by hand (no cloth or so) and then reinsert them
if pt. c - change old DOT to brand new because the old one might have taken water over the years ==> vapor bubbles when hot ==> bad clutch
BUT please never! use DOT "5.0" - the silicone in there is absolutely 100% lethal for all japanese (and european) rubber hoses and gaskets you have in the clutch or brake system.
okay you took steel braided brake hoses and think "5.0" is ok - but then you forget all the rubber gaskets in the pumps, calippers and clutch slave !
(
X) physical explanation:
a fluid (here the DOT) works, if slow enough and inner diameter of pipe or hose is not to big, like a "piston in a pipe" and pushes all air in front and out
. result. pipe / hose gets bleeded
