Clutch Mod Problems!!!

hayabusa99b/w

Registered
I just did a clutch mod on the busa this last week. I bought a welded one piece part off of ebay and put it on last wednesday. After putting it on and taking it out for the first run the clutch slipped after anything above 4,000 rpm's which I expected due to the clutch mod requiring heavier springs so I put it back into the garage, took it back apart and went inside to order the heavy duty clutch springs from Schnitz Racing out of Indiana. I paid $32 to have them overnighted by air because I wanted to race on Friday night at the track and checked the shipping thursday on it and they accidently shipped it ground instead of air they said. (GRRRR!!!!) I ended up using washers as spacers to beef up the springs until the heavy duty springs arrived on monday and went to the opening night at the dragstrip. I hauled the busa out of the trailer and was the only bike over a 1000cc's besides one zx-12 so I was ready to prove myself. I got up to the line and staged, left hard out of the hole and the clutch started slipping again above 8,000 rpm's. I ran a 7.99 in the 1/8th mile at 76 mph!!!
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I normaly run at least 110mph in the eigth at a low 7 high 6 second time frame without the clutch mod done leaving the line at 3,000 rpm's to keep the clutch from chattering! I made one more run to make sure and shut it down almost right off of the starting line as it slipped right away. I brought it home and monday put on the heavy duty springs, put oil back in it and bled the clutch line and took it out for a spin. The first thing I noticed was that the clutch was not fully disengaging when I pulled the lever all of the way in so I shut it off and bled it again. It still did it after I started the bike back up so I took it out on the road just out of frustration to see how it ran through the rpm's. The first run was awesome as the bike did not slip at all throughout the entire rpm range so I ran another run to make sure and it worked perfect but the clutch was still not fully disengaging. I took it back to the garage and adjusted it one more time and let Kawiboy11 take it out for a spin as his bike is in my garage getting the turbo put on by both of us. As he took it down the road the clutch started to slip again so he brought it right back and I took it out one more time to see why as I adjusted the clutch lever and bled it again. I tried it one more time and it slipped on the top end. I put it back in the garage and started working on kawiboy11's turbo as I was sick from all of the problems I had with mine so far. I am pretty sure that the stock clutch that is in it is fried even though I only had it slip five times and got out of it right as it started slipping and just wanted confirmation on that. My other question is why does the clutch not fully disengage even though I bled the line five times and refilled it with fluid each time I did it. I don't know of any other way to adjust it and I wouldn't think that Schnitz and other companies would sell springs that affected the clutch not fully disengaging!! Any thought's on this problem would be great!! Thanks!!!
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WHEN YOU PULL THE CLUTCH IN WITH THE MOTOR RUNNING IN GEAR DOES IT FEEL LIKE IT'S STILL WANTING TO MOVE OR PULL?
 
I am a little confused about your methods.You said add oil. You dont lose much oil when you remove the clutch cover so I assume you are just adding back the small amont that is lost. Why are you bleeding the clutch? You dont lose any fluid when you do a clutch mod or open the system so there is no reason to bleed it. Now that you have opened to fluid part of the clutch you may not have it bled out and that would explain the clutch not disengaging all the way because if there is air in the clutch slave cylinder and it cant push the pressure plate all the wat out. Is your stack up right and do you have the cushion in the bottom of the basket right? How many miles on the bike now. With the slipping that you are talking about I would think it is time for a new clutch pack now. Steels and discs.
 
yeah...not sure why you are bleeding clutch lines...there's no need to touch it ...unless you just wanted to.

if the line is OEM.... loose it and get a stainless replacement....no worries about trapped air.
 
IT'S PROBLY THE STACK HEIGHT IN YOUR CLUTCH SETUP OR YOU COULD HAVE GOT THE CLUTCH PACK TO HOT AND WARPED ONE OF THE STEELS,THAT COULD CAUSE IT NOT TO FULL DISENGAGE. I CHECK MY CLUTCHES AT THE TRACK A LOT DURING THE SUMMER AND SOMETIMES WHEN YOUR REALLY MAKING ALOT OF RUNS YOU CAN GET  THEM TO HOT!!! I AGREE WITH THE REST OF THE GUYS ON THE BLEEDING OF THE CLUTCH ,I TAKE MINE APART EVERY WEEKEND AND HAVE NEVER BLED THE LINE. SO DONT REALLY UNDERSTAND THAT PART OF THIS,BUT TO EACH HIS OWN!!!GOOD LUCK AND CHANGE THOSE CLUTCHES 1ST BEFORE YOU WORRY YOURSELF TO DEATH!!
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