Gen 2 busa battery specs. Can a busa run on a 12v 8ah battery?




Ruhaan

Registered
I have a 2014 busa which had a failed rectifier and that caused the battery also to go bad. I changed both but the mechanic put an 8ah battery instead of a 10.5 ah one. I rode it for about a month with no issues. Until yesterday when I rode her in heavy traffic and the revs didn't go above 4k anywhere. I have an hid headlight. The battery went dead on me and the bike stopped while running. The battery that the mechanic put is a 12v 8ah battery. Can any of you see a problem here ? I need help
 

VIPER

Formerly known as viperblackbusa.
Registered
need the better battery. the 8ah isnt enough. Busa is sensitive to voltage too.
 

c10

Registered
Do you understand amp hours ? Yes you can , but it is smaller , and has less cranking power . CCA = cold cranking amps . Did same mechanic fix your charging system ? what accessories are you running
 

Skywalker

Donating Member
Registered
One is the voltage. If the device calls for a 12 V battery, you must use a 12 V, no different. Clearly both are 12 V so you are ok in regards to this characteristic.

The ah is amp-hours. It is a measure of the capacity of the battery before it "runs out". The bigger the ah the longer it will run before it is empty.

Consider automotive batteries. They are all 12 v. A small 12 V battery will work properly in a single cylinder lawn and garden tractor but it will not be able to start a very large V8 engine. Conversely, the 12 V battery in the large V8 engine will easily start the single cylincer lawn and garden tractor. You use a smaller battery in the lawn and garden tractor simply because you do not need the larger and more costly battery, it takes up more space, adds more weight, etc.

Back to your case - An 8 ah battery has lesser lifetime than a 12 ah batter by 4 ah or 50% (4/8 = 0.5 or 50%).

If the 12 ah battery fits in the device now run by the 8 ah battery, all works well and you have a longer lifetime before needing to recharge the battery.
 

c10

Registered
FYI a 8 amp , and 10.5 amp hour battery both have the same Voltage of 12.9 to 13.1 no load . The 10.5 last longer at same draw .

Example = 1 amp per hour draw a 8 amp last how long ? 8 hours . the 10.5 last 2.5 hours longer at a 1 amp draw
 

ali123

Registered
FYI a 8 amp , and 10.5 amp hour battery both have the same Voltage of 12.9 to 13.1 no load . The 10.5 last longer at same draw .

Example = 1 amp per hour draw a 8 amp last how long ? 8 hours . the 10.5 last 2.5 hours longer at a 1 amp draw
c10s example is an absolute abstract.... the charging system replenishes the battery as it is running.... 8ah is plenty of amp hours for ure application....
 
Once you replace the known bad charging components then you must recheck the system. Maybe the mechanic did this and the problem was not obvious at the time?

There is the remote possibility that the battery died an early death. In any case, for testing it must now be charged, duty-cycle tested, then reinstalled.

Next measure the electrical system output according to the factory service manual. There is the AC voltage of each of 3 phases of the stator, stator short tests, DC battery voltage at idle/5000 rpm, "battery current leakage inspection" (a test for shorts as labelled in the service manual) . Tests must be run cold and hot. A short or open circuit might only appear when the problem component is hot.

You mention the headlight, why? Is that a recent change? If it is drawing too much power that would be caught with the above tests (but all tests must be done to help identify the specific problem.) If a wire was inadvertently nicked during an installation, the leakage/short test may catch it.

These measurements with a multimeter (voltage, amperage, impedance) will lead you to the next steps.
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Please don't forget the current draw test, key turned off, amp meter connected between battery ground lead and battery ground terminal.
Checking for any current draw from any accessories attached to the electrical system of the bike, any greater draw than 0.05 amps is a problem.
As C10 said, 'what accessories are you running?'.
The electrical system on your bike needs a full diagnosis check run on it from start to finish.
Stator output, cold and hot, at idle speed and at 4000rpm,
reg/rectifier check, diode test and output test with motor running.
Battery load test, state of health, state of charge, and standing voltage measured.
Check all connections at battery leads/terminals, starter relay connections.
 

VIPER

Formerly known as viperblackbusa.
Registered
So OP in closing what the fellers above said, yes it will run on the cheaper smaller battery. That being said get the better battery as it will last longer, start better, and be able to run some accessories. You get what you pay for.
 

Ruhaan

Registered
One is the voltage. If the device calls for a 12 V battery, you must use a 12 V, no different. Clearly both are 12 V so you are ok in regards to this characteristic.

The ah is amp-hours. It is a measure of the capacity of the battery before it "runs out". The bigger the ah the longer it will run before it is empty.

Consider automotive batteries. They are all 12 v. A small 12 V battery will work properly in a single cylinder lawn and garden tractor but it will not be able to start a very large V8 engine. Conversely, the 12 V battery in the large V8 engine will easily start the single cylincer lawn and garden tractor. You use a smaller battery in the lawn and garden tractor simply because you do not need the larger and more costly battery, it takes up more space, adds more weight, etc.

Back to your case - An 8 ah battery has lesser lifetime than a 12 ah batter by 4 ah or 50% (4/8 = 0.5 or 50%).

If the 12 ah battery fits in the device now run by the 8 ah battery, all works well and you have a longer lifetime before needing to recharge the battery.
The problem was that my rectifier had failed and I had replaced it with the OEM rectifier and the after when my battery failed I put a yuasa oem battery. After a month of usage the yuasa died on me too. I asked the authorised service station people to check the stator coils. The didn't listen the first time and after the second battery failing I had to use some stern language with them. And when the opened the stator cover they found that the stator coil was burnt in some places and the magnets had gone bad.
Has anyone faced an issue where the stator, rectifier and the battery all fail at once ?
 

Ruhaan

Registered
Please don't forget the current draw test, key turned off, amp meter connected between battery ground lead and battery ground terminal.
Checking for any current draw from any accessories attached to the electrical system of the bike, any greater draw than 0.05 amps is a problem.
As C10 said, 'what accessories are you running?'.
The electrical system on your bike needs a full diagnosis check run on it from start to finish.
Stator output, cold and hot, at idle speed and at 4000rpm,
reg/rectifier check, diode test and output test with motor running.
Battery load test, state of health, state of charge, and standing voltage measured.
Check all connections at battery leads/terminals, starter relay connections.
e problem was that my rectifier had failed and I had replaced it with the OEM rectifier and the after when my battery failed I put a yuasa oem battery. After a month of usage the yuasa died on me too. I asked the authorised service station people to check the stator coils. The didn't listen the first time and after the second battery failing I had to use some stern language with them. And when the opened the stator cover they found that the stator coil was burnt in some places and the magnets had gone bad.
Has anyone faced an issue where the stator, rectifier and the battery all fail at once ?
 

Ruhaan

Registered
Once you replace the known bad charging components then you must recheck the system. Maybe the mechanic did this and the problem was not obvious at the time?

There is the remote possibility that the battery died an early death. In any case, for testing it must now be charged, duty-cycle tested, then reinstalled.

Next measure the electrical system output according to the factory service manual. There is the AC voltage of each of 3 phases of the stator, stator short tests, DC battery voltage at idle/5000 rpm, "battery current leakage inspection" (a test for shorts as labelled in the service manual) . Tests must be run cold and hot. A short or open circuit might only appear when the problem component is hot.

You mention the headlight, why? Is that a recent change? If it is drawing too much power that would be caught with the above tests (but all tests must be done to help identify the specific problem.) If a wire was inadvertently nicked during an installation, the leakage/short test may catch it.

These measurements with a multimeter (voltage, amperage, impedance) will lead you to the next steps.
e problem was that my rectifier had failed and I had replaced it with the OEM rectifier and the after when my battery failed I put a yuasa oem battery. After a month of usage the yuasa died on me too. I asked the authorised service station people to check the stator coils. The didn't listen the first time and after the second battery failing I had to use some stern language with them. And when the opened the stator cover they found that the stator coil was burnt in some places and the magnets had gone bad.
Has anyone faced an issue where the stator, rectifier and the battery all fail at once ?
 
Has anyone faced an issue where the stator, rectifier and the battery all fail at once ?
Yes, because all three failures are actually related. These are not separate failures. One component dies and it affects another which affects another.

By doing the service manual electrical measurements periodically (once a season or more often if the bike has a bad history) you will catch issues with one of the components before it causes problems. When a component falls below the spec, replace it, and it will not affect anything and the electrical system should not leave you stranded.

I recommend using a smart charger when not riding much. Never jump start a bike but instead charge the dead battery before using it. Monitor the DC voltage whenever you can, it is easy with a cheap multimeter.
 

Sandow

Registered
e problem was that my rectifier had failed and I had replaced it with the OEM rectifier and the after when my battery failed I put a yuasa oem battery. After a month of usage the yuasa died on me too. I asked the authorised service station people to check the stator coils. The didn't listen the first time and after the second battery failing I had to use some stern language with them. And when the opened the stator cover they found that the stator coil was burnt in some places and the magnets had gone bad.
Has anyone faced an issue where the stator, rectifier and the battery all fail at once ?
There is currently a recall from suzuki for rectifiers for certain busas (not sure what year is yours) but i just got a call the other day to bring mine in the shop to get the rectifier exchanged for free. Maybe your issue is related to that.
 

Ruhaan

Registered
There is currently a recall from suzuki for rectifiers for certain busas (not sure what year is yours) but i just got a call the other day to bring mine in the shop to get the rectifier exchanged for free. Maybe your issue is related to that.
Mine is a 2014 busa. I asked the service station people and they said there wasn't any
 

Ruhaan

Registered
Do you understand amp hours ? Yes you can , but it is smaller , and has less cranking power . CCA = cold cranking amps . Did same mechanic fix your charging system ? what accessories are you running
e problem was that my rectifier had failed and I had replaced it with the OEM rectifier and the after when my battery failed I put a yuasa oem battery. After a month of usage the yuasa died on me too. I asked the authorised service station people to check the stator coils. The didn't listen the first time and after the second battery failing I had to use some stern language with them. And when the opened the stator cover they found that the stator coil was burnt in some places and the magnets had gone bad.
Has anyone faced an issue where the stator, rectifier and the battery all fail at once ?
 

Ruhaan

Registered
One is the voltage. If the device calls for a 12 V battery, you must use a 12 V, no different. Clearly both are 12 V so you are ok in regards to this characteristic.

The ah is amp-hours. It is a measure of the capacity of the battery before it "runs out". The bigger the ah the longer it will run before it is empty.

Consider automotive batteries. They are all 12 v. A small 12 V battery will work properly in a single cylinder lawn and garden tractor but it will not be able to start a very large V8 engine. Conversely, the 12 V battery in the large V8 engine will easily start the single cylincer lawn and garden tractor. You use a smaller battery in the lawn and garden tractor simply because you do not need the larger and more costly battery, it takes up more space, adds more weight, etc.

Back to your case - An 8 ah battery has lesser lifetime than a 12 ah batter by 4 ah or 50% (4/8 = 0.5 or 50%).

If the 12 ah battery fits in the device now run by the 8 ah battery, all works well and you have a longer lifetime before needing to recharge the battery.
e problem was that my rectifier had failed and I had replaced it with the OEM rectifier and the after when my battery failed I put a yuasa oem battery. After a month of usage the yuasa died on me too. I asked the authorised service station people to check the stator coils. The didn't listen the first time and after the second battery failing I had to use some stern language with them. And when the opened the stator cover they found that the stator coil was burnt in some places and the magnets had gone bad.
Has anyone faced an issue where the stator, rectifier and the battery all fail at once ?
 



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