06 busa won't start up, new battery

I was afraid of that....anyone ever had any success doing this without dropping the engine?? That's going to be beyond my scope of work when it comes to splitting the case.

What sucks even more is that I just got this bike two weeks ago and am already having these issues, frustrating to say the least. I should have the seal in a few days.
 
I was afraid of that....anyone ever had any success doing this without dropping the engine?? That's going to be beyond my scope of work when it comes to splitting the case.

What sucks even more is that I just got this bike two weeks ago and am already having these issues, frustrating to say the least. I should have the seal in a few days.
Sorry friend but it's the only way.
Where do you live
 
The seal can be changed without splitting
the cases...your gonna have to do a search
on the forums here. There a some old threads
about it....old old threads...like 2006-2008
 
Try 15W50 oil, and see if this reduces the leak. I had this on my '01, and heavier oil significantly reduced the leak.
 
what key words should I search??

Try "clutch rod seal" I found a couple of
threads talking about it. It seems that you
can remove it without splitting the cases,
but I didn't find out if anyone ever successfully
got a new one in there without splitting
the cases. The right way to do the job
is to split them.

I'll look more later.
 
Try 15W50 oil, and see if this reduces the leak. I had this on my '01, and heavier oil significantly reduced the leak.

ok, I'll try that, thanks, the leak is pretty bad,

busaseal_zpsf97b3940.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

busaseal2_zps3b1f6d34.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
That's a lot of oil. What's odd in this picture is that the oil seems to be all around the push rod hole. I would think the oil should be below the hole... unless it squirts out under pressure.

Anyway, here is the trick which can reduce you oil leak by another 50-70%. It's easy to try, so worth a shot. The oil mostly leaks when the push rod moves, i.e. when you shift. If you use the clutch when upshifting, learn to use clutchless upshfits which is a better technique all around: quicker shifting, easier to execute, and better for your tranny. When you need to downshift and rpms are not that high, learn to slip it in, barely using the clutch.

The amount of leaking oil is proportional to oil pressure. The higher the rpm, the more the oil pressure. Usually, you have high rpm during upshifts, so using clutchless upshifts will significantly reduce the leakage. Using less clutch on some downshifts will reduce the leakage even further.
 
There is NO WAY without splitting the cases to replace the seal! It sucks, but the previous owner must have known that the problem was there. It looks to be filled in with Honda Bond or something.
 
There is NO WAY without splitting the cases to replace the seal! It sucks, but the previous owner must have known that the problem was there. It looks to be filled in with Honda Bond or something.

Is that what that stuff is?? I thought that hardened piece on outside was aftermarket. I took a while looking for the replacement seal because everything I saw didn't have that outside coating.

PISSES me off that this guy sold me a problem bike :newburn: !!!
 
No, a jump doesn't do it after it's been run, I can push start it, which is what I have been doing.... I'm going to look for a bad connection, do I check the ohms at the starter?
download the service manual for your bike and follow the directions.
 
So the oil thing worked by running a thicker weight like some suggested, not completely stopped but reduced, that's my winter project. Back to the original post:

I ran a thicker power and grounded the starter as suggested. After a ride, the battery registers at 12.8v when off. When I try to start it, it drops down to about 6-7v. I check the power on the other side of the starter solenoid, it goes from 0 to 6-7v when starting. When the bike sits for about an hour, it'll fire back up!! Thoughts?
 
Dropping to 6 or 7 volts while starting ? There's a battery problem there. Maybe yur battery is to small? Not enough cranking amps?
 
At first that's what I thought cause I got it at walmart, so I went to cycle gear and got the oem replacement, no go, then I upgraded to the heavy duty version, still same. Drove it last night when I tested voltage. This morning, fired right up, voltage stays at 12 during firing right now
 
Back
Top