First time at the track last night!

[lankeeyankee]

You and Trey are the only ones that can run 10.0's or 6.50's when i am not at the track running beside yawl. LOL!
The next time i goto the track i am going to compare clutch and clutchless shifts. But if i remember correctly when i started drag racing i used to use the clutch on drag passes and a veteran told me throttle shift you will lower your et and run more consistent since then i only use the clutch to launch.

Listen to Yankee, I can run a little faster but he is way more consistent than I will ever be he knows his stuff. I have an 07 with 63,000 miles my best time was a 10.02 at 144mph, its mostly stock, muzzy and lowered 1" in rear. When the front came up I could only run a 10.3, need to work on keeping the front down and slipping the clutch to control it. I try to be out of the clutch and WOT by the tree. I launch at 10k RPM and try to not let it drop below 7k when taking off. Just takes practice bud, my first time racing a 1/4 I think I was up in the 10.5 range but after about 10 passes I was down in the 10.1 10.2 range.

It sounds like the drag bug is starting to bite, I put a NOS kit on my bike to try and get the 9's and well by the 3rd bottle I blew my motor and never dragged it, however I did eat up a gen 2 on the street lol. It gets expensive really quick. If you add nitrous, I don't care what anyone tells you or anything you hear, it does not matter how much or how little you spray you absolutely without a doubt HAVE TO ADD FUEL WITH IT!!!! I was told under 60 didn't need it, I sprayed 30 and ..... well ..... poof!

Oh and I use the clutch to shift but its not to be easier on the bike because the tranny is built for it. The reason I do it is because I never have to let off the gas WOT from green to end

 

[Dennis]

Guys, you can use the clutch to shift if you want, it's fully your choice. If you understand how the transmission works you would see that using it or not using it doesn't matter for being "easy" on the transmission. Bikes have a face-engaging transmission so all you need to do is unload the geartrain and it will easily move from one position to the other. You can unload it with the clutch or with a throttle blip. If you leave the throttle open and use the clutch you are just putting more heat into the clutch every time you flash it, and you take the chance of lifting the front end when you release it. If you let off the gas, pull the clutch, and shift all you are doing is wasting time. There is no human that can pull and release the clutch lever while closing and opening the throttle as fast as just blipping the throttle. In reality the geartrain is already unloaded by the throttle before the clutch is pulled anyway.

 

[Dennis]

Also, best times will be accomplished with the front end barely off the ground. Maybe an inch. If i'm 5" off the ground I'll slow by at least a tenth, usually 2 tenths if I keep the front end up through third gear.

 

[KvHotDog4]

I know I know, but to my favor you only came with me once and I did show you time slips from before. The time you came was the first time I had raced in about 6 or 7 months, and its a 6.687 in the 1/8 at union hill, 10.02 in the 1/4 at Beech Bend. Beech Bend is a faster track than Union Hill, the Hill slants up a little you will always run about a tenth faster at Beech Bend.

Dang I said you were better than me at drag racing at least let me have my times lol.

You and Trey are the only ones that can run 10.0's or 6.50's when i am not at the track running beside yawl. LOL!
The next time i goto the track i am going to compare clutch and clutchless shifts. But if i remember correctly when i started drag racing i used to use the clutch on drag passes and a veteran told me throttle shift you will lower your et and run more consistent since then i only use the clutch to launch.

Something you may want to try is going back to stock gearing until you get use to racing and how to react. With the stock gearing your R's wont rise as quick and you will have a little more time to react and watch what you are doing, so you can get the rythm right.

 

[Amelio]

So you feel its easier on the bike to launch it at a higher RPM then needed such as 8+ grand and use your clutch going down the dragstrip?
I been drag racing motorcycles for over 22 years.
we are trying to give you advice so you will stop embarassing us by having 750' beat you on a track.

LOL dude relax! I am taking your advice thats why I am here asking questions......plus as you mentioned 8k plus launches are not need you earlier said 4-5k will do the job and that is exactly what I am going to try next week. No need to poke at the fact that my first 5 passes ever were a little slow....I am sure the first few passes you ever made were not burning up the track! I may be a rookie at draggin my bike but in no way am I a rookie on a bike!

 

[teezy]

Im no pro rider but I did pilot my 03 hayabusa into the 9's my first trip to the track ever on a bike. I listened to my now tuner on what to do... strap,lowered,16/42/big bird exhaust,small air box mod and CLUTCH MOD!!!! I would leave at 4500rpm and practice slipping the clutch to see how aggresive I could get. Was able to get 1.67-1.71 60ft's. I was 225 suited..and went 9.99@142

The clutch mod will help you get aggressive!!

 

[lankeeyankee]

LOL dude relax! I am taking your advice thats why I am here asking questions......plus as you mentioned 8k plus launches are not need you earlier said 4-5k will do the job and that is exactly what I am going to try next week. No need to poke at the fact that my first 5 passes ever were a little slow....I am sure the first few passes you ever made were not burning up the track! I may be a rookie at draggin my bike but in no way am I a rookie on a bike!

Its all good. my words come across harsh at times but my facial expressions differ. Guess its still the Jersey in me..
What your trying to accomplish is very tough. Keeping your bike to where it handles the twisties on the weekends and cruising into your local dragstrip and put down numbers. We all know your busa is putting HP numbers that shame the 750. I started out like you with a street bike, then strapped the front end down, then started spinning the tire then it was a road race slick (back in 1990 they didnt have great street drag tires) then it was wheelies with the tire hooking then it led to a swing arm extended, now I was hooking hard holeshotting strong but now I couldnt get my feet back to the pegs to shift 2nd now it was time to buy an airshifter. long story short my awesome GSXR street bike turned into a full blown throttle stopped pro gas bike with more damn electronics on it which basically drove itself down the dragstrip after letting off one micro switch reacting with the start of the top bulb.
What I am getting at is ya cant be best at both worlds ya have to settle. The way I see it is, I am not racing against Ryan Snitz running 6.80's @200MPH on a non wheelie bar bike what does it matter if you run 8.20's or 11.20's. Riding a SWB street bike into the dragstrip and increasing your ET is a skill on its own. Worry about improvement on your 60' its a challenge to ride a SWB big bore bike down the track without looping it. I am telling its so much easier to put extensions on, lower / strap your street bike. I can take a 12 yr old kid and put him on a stretched strapped bike and send him down the track on a 8.60 bike with no problems, skill comes in when ya set him on a SWB bike with a prepped sticky dragstrip. a 8 second stretched BUSA are a dime a dozen around here. Not many winning bracket races on non air shifted SWB bikes. Thats my challenge as I ride out the gate with a check and hit some twisties on the way home!!

Also the Brocks clutch mod may help you with more clutch feel allowing you to slip it more. The OEM clutch on the Busa with the back limiter is the most challenging clutch design yet that I have tried to get out of the hole anything faster then a 1.71 60' There is very little clutch freedom its either on or its off. The clutch mod may help with this, I cant say cause I didnt want to do it cause I like the back limiter design when I am downshifting hard on the street.

 

[lankeeyankee]

I know I know, but to my favor you only came with me once and I did show you time slips from before. The time you came was the first time I had raced in about 6 or 7 months, and its a 6.687 in the 1/8 at union hill, 10.02 in the 1/4 at Beech Bend. Beech Bend is a faster track than Union Hill, the Hill slants up a little you will always run about a tenth faster at Beech Bend.

Dang I said you were better than me at drag racing at least let me have my times lol.





Something you may want to try is going back to stock gearing until you get use to racing and how to react. With the stock gearing your R's wont rise as quick and you will have a little more time to react and watch what you are doing, so you can get the rythm right.

Yes you did Kev, your bike ran strong, very strong that one night we had some fun at the track our times were within a hundreth or two of each other. Get settled into your new home attend some more Miranda Lambert concerts and I am sure that Busa of yours will be ready for the new riding season of 2013 but ya may be running against a ZX14R by then. I will just have to wait and see what Suzuki brings to the table hell who knows maybe Kawi will bring a 1465 with 225HP to the table for 2013, I know I will need more HP when you get yours running again. If you do nitrous please do call me I will come over and help you with the install this time.

 

[Amelio]

Its all good. my words come across harsh at times but my facial expressions differ. Guess its still the Jersey in me..
What your trying to accomplish is very tough. Keeping your bike to where it handles the twisties on the weekends and cruising into your local dragstrip and put down numbers. We all know your busa is putting HP numbers that shame the 750. I started out like you with a street bike, then strapped the front end down, then started spinning the tire then it was a road race slick (back in 1990 they didnt have great street drag tires) then it was wheelies with the tire hooking then it led to a swing arm extended, now I was hooking hard holeshotting strong but now I couldnt get my feet back to the pegs to shift 2nd now it was time to buy an airshifter. long story short my awesome GSXR street bike turned into a full blown throttle stopped pro gas bike with more damn electronics on it which basically drove itself down the dragstrip after letting off one micro switch reacting with the start of the top bulb.
What I am getting at is ya cant be best at both worlds ya have to settle. The way I see it is, I am not racing against Ryan Snitz running 6.80's @200MPH on a non wheelie bar bike what does it matter if you run 8.20's or 11.20's. Riding a SWB street bike into the dragstrip and increasing your ET is a skill on its own. Worry about improvement on your 60' its a challenge to ride a SWB big bore bike down the track without looping it. I am telling its so much easier to put extensions on, lower / strap your street bike. I can take a 12 yr old kid and put him on a stretched strapped bike and send him down the track on a 8.60 bike with no problems, skill comes in when ya set him on a SWB bike with a prepped sticky dragstrip. a 8 second stretched BUSA are a dime a dozen around here. Not many winning bracket races on non air shifted SWB bikes. Thats my challenge as I ride out the gate with a check and hit some twisties on the way home!!



Also the Brocks clutch mod may help you with more clutch feel allowing you to slip it more. The OEM clutch on the Busa with the back limiter is the most challenging clutch design yet that I have tried to get out of the hole anything faster then a 1.71 60' There is very little clutch freedom its either on or its off. The clutch mod may help with this, I cant say cause I didnt want to do it cause I like the back limiter design when I am downshifting hard on the street.

naaaa your not harsh your just gett'n excited lol....I got family in Jersey its no thing to me

I know it is very difficult to have the best of both worlds......I am just gonna work on getting out of the gate and keeping the nose down if I can do that I think my e.t's will be where I want them to. My bike was stretched when I bought it....I swore I was gonna get to the strip and never did....at that time I was busy racing my cars. I seem to bounce from one car to the other.....I used to have an R1 and a Ducati 996 back in the day.... back then I was all about hitting the mountains every weekend and getting busted for riding wheelies. Now I am back on the bike kick and this time at the drag strip. Racing my bike is a hell of a lot cheaper than either one of my cars. Last year at the strip in my GN I popped a head gasket pressurized the cooling system and blew the lower rad hose.....that happend at the top of second......got real bad outta shape took up both lanes and almost smacked the wall 4 times! Now I am back and focused on my bike and I wanted to get bak to my roots on a SWB and carve some road so I took the blocks off and changed the sprockets I am a wheelie junkie on the streets

At this moment in time if I can drop the e.t .3-.5 I will be thrilled and from what you guys are saying it is there with some practice. I just got the Brocks strap today hopefully it limits the 1st and 2nd gear moon shots and we will see how I do. I will post up some times after I get back from the track next week.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Learned years ago if you are happy with your car or motorcycle and think it runs great there are 2 thing you dont do...... Put it on the dyno or take it to the dragstrip cause the numbers will only hurt your feelings and pride a little???
Yes, its much cheaper to run a motorcycle down the dragstrip rather then a car. I also learned this when I was 17, replacing engines, rear ends, and transmission in a 77 Trans Am the last ride home was with 2 rods knocking, bought a GSXR and it was history in the car racing department since then. Post up the times with the strapon. Cheater

 

[juschillin]

Hey everyone I have 2010 busa 240lbs rider full yosh exhaust power commander 5 bmc air filter quick turn throttle and just put 17-45 sprockets on was running 10.7 before I switched sprockets and now running 11.3-11.5 launching at 3500-4500 rpm getting extensions lowering links and a lowering strap for the track in the front but getting eatten by 600s in the 1/8 th but passing them before the 1/4 mile is over does this sound about right or should I be running faster any help would help

 

[Quicker Gixxer]

I don't care what anyone tells you or anything you hear, it does not matter how much or how little you spray you absolutely without a doubt HAVE TO ADD FUEL WITH IT!!!! I was told under 60 didn't need it, I sprayed 30 and ..... well ..... poof!

Would that apply if the motor was built up some?

 

[robntguy]

Lord have mercy on my soul, a good read, learned a few things but towards the end, them Jersey remarks are a classic. You know, we here in jersey not all mad people ... Hana

 

[yzguyfl]

Would that apply if the motor was built up some?

yes.

the whole "temperature sensor will add more fuel because it is colder" thing does not add enough, it may add some, but not enough. ALWAYS ADD FUEL!!!

 

[Dennis]

Hey everyone I have 2010 busa 240lbs rider full yosh exhaust power commander 5 bmc air filter quick turn throttle and just put 17-45 sprockets on was running 10.7 before I switched sprockets and now running 11.3-11.5 launching at 3500-4500 rpm getting extensions lowering links and a lowering strap for the track in the front but getting eatten by 600s in the 1/8 th but passing them before the 1/4 mile is over does this sound about right or should I be running faster any help would help

That's not right. Please don't be offended, but it is probably your riding. You should be able to go a bit quicker than before with the gearing change. Concentrate on getting the clutch out and the throttle open as early in the run as possible without bogging the motor. Lowering, extensions, strap, and a Brocks clutch mod will help you immensely.

 

[Dennis]

Would that apply if the motor was built up some?

As yzguyfl said, add fuel. Having the motor "built" doesn't increase the melting temperature of the aluminum your pistons are made of (although some coatings can provide more heat protection). The first year I ran nitrous I was using a PCIII-USB and unwittingly didn't realize that the injectors I was controlling provided only a very small percentage of the fuel in the upper RPM's. As a result, my 17% fuel addition for 40 hp of nitrous was really not adding much fuel at all. The engine survived, but as soon as I realized what was going on I switched to ECU nitrous control and am on the safe side now.

 

[Got-Busa?]

Hey everyone I have 2010 busa 240lbs rider full yosh exhaust power commander 5 bmc air filter quick turn throttle and just put 17-45 sprockets on was running 10.7 before I switched sprockets and now running 11.3-11.5 launching at 3500-4500 rpm getting extensions lowering links and a lowering strap for the track in the front but getting eatten by 600s in the 1/8 th but passing them before the 1/4 mile is over does this sound about right or should I be running faster any help would help

You've got a lot of learning to do and need more practice....you should be high-9's stock. With a pipe and lowered you should be mid-9's. What is your 60', 330' and 1/8-mile time?

 

[Moparict]

Buddy of mine Stock wheel base 08 busa with an Akro pipe, K&N air filter and a good tune went 9.34 @ 151mph (lowered and strapped). Another friend of mine who is heavier (180lbs) runs pretty consistant 9.40's with a 4 inch stretch. Now these are very experienced riders. I did 9.58 @ 146 mph on a gen1 with a 4 inch stretch. If you haven't broke into the 9's with a piped and stretched Gen 2, then you need more seat time before you keep making changes. Changes will only confuse what you are not learning now. And what you aren't learning now will only get worse with more things changing.

 

[Dennis]

Buddy of mine Stock wheel base 08 busa with an Akro pipe, K&N air filter and a good tune went 9.34 @ 151mph (lowered and strapped). Another friend of mine who is heavier (180lbs) runs pretty consistant 9.40's with a 4 inch stretch. Now these are very experienced riders. I did 9.58 @ 146 mph on a gen1 with a 4 inch stretch. If you haven't broke into the 9's with a piped and stretched Gen 2, then you need more seat time before you keep making changes. Changes will only confuse what you are not learning now. And what you aren't learning now will only get worse with more things changing.

This is my swb bike (lowered, strapped, exhaust, generic ECU tune) opening day last year. I had to leave at higher rpm's and slip the clutch easy or the clutch would chatter terrible since I didn't have a clutch mod at the time. The track was not prepped well at all so if I went quicker than 1.60 60' the front tire would lift an inch or two, then when it touched down on the shift it would unload the back tire and spin so the quickest I could go was 9.24 that day. I'm sure I could have run in the teens if the track was prepped well.

2008 Hayabusa 9.257@151.43 - YouTube[/url]