michael parris heuberger
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Hi. Where do you live? save your $ up and bring or send it to someone who knows what they are doing like GIXERHP
Clutch pushrod oil seal & breaking open the engine
- Thread starter lafave132
- Start date
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi lafave132. I am not saying you can not do it but...……… I am building a high HP Buas and I have worked on race motors for over 55 years but I have never worked so I am having Rick at Harries Machined Parts do mine as I have over $1500.00 in just parts.
Takin' them apart is the easy part...getting them back together and running is the trick...
Berlin Germany
Registered
uuuh how correct dear bee.
and runnning means a huge lot more than only 5 minutes / some 2 or 3 miles at a 1st test ride.
Virginia Beach. Going into it I bought it because I was interested in engines. That's really the reason my buddy sold her to me. He didn't want to take it in and didn't want to open the engine, or life got in the way too long
The undertaking you engaged in is not for the faint of heart...I've done my own wrenching for a pile of years and I can honestly say what you are doing it beyond my skills.
Sure hope it all turns out for you...it will be great to see it all done..
Ya know, all this was going over my head until I separated my head and block and saw the carbon on my valves... how long do piston rings last?
so far I have been pleasantly surprised at how easy the disassembly has been. It's taken about 3 hours to get where we're at. Waiting on the new seals and gaskets is killing me. My brother has been helping and I think by myself I would have been screwed.
I am waiting on the clutch tool to arrive to take that off but I'm wondering, can I separate the crankcase without taking the clutch apart?
If you take your time, do your research, and double/triple check things, you can rebuild this engine easily. The components are not difficult to work with, there are only a few specialized tools required that won't set you back a huge amount of dollars. Utilize the shop manual and you're good to go (with the exception if you're modifying items like adjustable cams, different compression piston/rods, etc).
For what it's worth the first time I built an engine was my busa engine #1, which I built to pro street specs. I beat the poop out of that motor with boost for 5 years before I even took it out of the frame for rebuild last year.
Don't be scared to do it. You'll know what was done, so you'll have full confidence in it.
For what it's worth the first time I built an engine was my busa engine #1, which I built to pro street specs. I beat the poop out of that motor with boost for 5 years before I even took it out of the frame for rebuild last year.
Don't be scared to do it. You'll know what was done, so you'll have full confidence in it.
Around 23k. How long do rings typically last?
Way longer than 23k, Get yourself a the correct Hone and just deglaze the cylinder. And clean every thing completely. Dont remove the rings, just make sure you set the the rings according to the manual,
Berlin Germany
Registered
@lafave132
dear
sorry for my question
but are you kidding us?
all these, your, questions take me more and more to this my opinion.
and you can kill anything after a second or a day - depends on how you (mis)use it.
rings and pistons CAN last for over 150k miles so
to your question
dear
sorry for my question
but are you kidding us?
all these, your, questions take me more and more to this my opinion.
and you can kill anything after a second or a day - depends on how you (mis)use it.
rings and pistons CAN last for over 150k miles so
to your questionCouple updates with some pics... so I replaced that little clutch push rod oil seal. Put the suzuki bond around the case where the manual told me, then was buttoning her up and one of the upper crankcase bolts broke. In my frustration I decided eff if, I'll just fill that hole with jb weld. That decision kept me tossing and turning so I drilled that s**t out and am on my way to reopening the case. I'm thinking improper torque. The manual calls for the 10mm crankcase bolts to be torqued to 50 nm if I recall correctly. But I'm thinking these are the crankcase journal bolts that are to be torqued to 20nm....
Do y'all usually turn the engine upside down when you break apart? I kept it topside up and the only hard part was getting the friction plates back on when seating the cases. Also had to take off the piston heads to get the upper away from the bottom.
A couple 'spacers' between my clutch friction plates have a some burn marks. This ok or need replacement?
Also, I wear gloves now I guess
Do y'all usually turn the engine upside down when you break apart? I kept it topside up and the only hard part was getting the friction plates back on when seating the cases. Also had to take off the piston heads to get the upper away from the bottom.
A couple 'spacers' between my clutch friction plates have a some burn marks. This ok or need replacement?
Also, I wear gloves now I guess
You gotta slow yer roll BIG TIME and read the manual better. Putting 50 newtons on bolts that should have 20.
Yes turning it upside down would have saved all the grief you are going to face re-assembling the top end,which wasn't necessary.
Not sure what you mean by you had trouble with the frictions when seating the cases. If you are referring to the clutch,that comes later.You can put the whole motor back together then worry about things like the clutch.
The "spacers" between the frictions are called steels or driven plates. The main concern with them is that they are not warped or are to thin. Unless the clutch has been abused,with a low mile motor like this,they should be fine. If this is your first motor re-build,you should slow down.
I would strongly suggest you do this work in a bit cleaner environment than on the floor. Dirt is your enemy right now.
What did you use the nail puller for? Hopefully not separating the case halves. What did you use to pull out the wrist pin clips? May want to replace those.
Rubb.
Yes turning it upside down would have saved all the grief you are going to face re-assembling the top end,which wasn't necessary.
Not sure what you mean by you had trouble with the frictions when seating the cases. If you are referring to the clutch,that comes later.You can put the whole motor back together then worry about things like the clutch.
The "spacers" between the frictions are called steels or driven plates. The main concern with them is that they are not warped or are to thin. Unless the clutch has been abused,with a low mile motor like this,they should be fine. If this is your first motor re-build,you should slow down.
I would strongly suggest you do this work in a bit cleaner environment than on the floor. Dirt is your enemy right now.
What did you use the nail puller for? Hopefully not separating the case halves. What did you use to pull out the wrist pin clips? May want to replace those.
Rubb.
I hope you turn the the thrust washers the correct way when you put the cases back together, in the pic above they are backwards!
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