Clutch pushrod oil seal & breaking open the engine

L

lafave132

Registered
New busa owner here. My first bike was a 2001 suzuki gs500 which I abused and learned all of the maintenance I SHOULD do, but never did. Then my buddy was going to junk a 94 kawasaki zx11 that was in pieces and missing parts which I took home instead a few months ago and now she's running and driving but still needs a couple things to pass inspection so antique plates for now. Now my buddy let go of his first busa (2002) due to the little oil seal that gives so many problems. So with my haynes manual and 0 experience in engines, here I go....

Engine, along with everything else, was already on the floor when I bought her so I ordered all the seals and gaskets partzilla would let me and I'm waiting on them to arrive. But I hate waiting so I broke into the engine. Took the cylinder head off tonight. 2 pistons were kind of stuck on there and I used a rubber mallet to the side of the casing to shimmy free. My piston crowns are black and gritty. After searching, I'm seeing that it may be a common thing like carbon build up? Suggesting that the engine is running too lean or something. The computer is a revtech dfo (digital fuel optimizer) and looking it up it seems like you adjust the fuel to air ratio with a screwdriver?? The bike has a Yoshimura exhaust but other than that I think it's stock.

I'm expecting this to be a rolling thread through the process if I see anything I don't understand. So please let me know what you think. I trust Google for the most part but would like expert opinions. Also, do I really need to replace all gaskets and seals for bolts and all? I see a couple I missed with my order.

Finally, is there anything I should do since I have her broke all the way down engine or anything else wise? Not trying to spend a lot, the wife would be mad knowing how much I spent already haha.

And yes, I've used the search function and read a lot of the forums about the push rod oil seal. Wasn't brave enough to try the old screws, socket and hammer technique.

20201107_062010.jpg


20201107_062025.jpg
 
how much did this mountain of work cost? hopefully only a very little bit.

you wrote about missing bolts.
hmmmmm
alone the special bolts for the busa´s fairing usually cost a lot / are very expensive but you should use these only . otherwise you "squeeze" the rubber inserts and at its end by this the entire plastic - its breaking might be the final result.
other example - the 2 pairs of M10 allen bolts through frame to the head (lh / rh) differ in their length - ~10 mm and if you put them into in the wrong way you will get problems.

take the haynes as a nice to have but don´t use it for real wrenching the/your k2.
thatfor i strongly recommend the orig. suzuki manual.
ask here for the gen1 manual and i guess you will get a link for download.

for ordering the correct bolts ´n nuts etc. in the appendix all microfiches 4 ur k2 in one pdf.

and for some specials beyond the manual have a look here at my homepage.
it contains all the experiances i personally made the last 12 years and a summ of experiances made by others.
(sorry some links won´t work - the translation is done by google and these translations can´t follow all links)
 

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i forgot

the seal for the clutch push rod and its leaking you can repair by glue´ing a second seal onto the one inside.
by this little tricky doing you won´t have to open the crankase.
note:
the space between orig. seal and chain / sprocket is sufficient - a friend of mine did so 10 years ago and it worked fine.

and remember what @bigdr wrote above -
the work that lies ahead of you needs a huge amount of experiences in wrenching a bike especially its motor / trans / crankcase.
without the best fitting tools (at very 1st mentioned these torque wrenches) u probably will fail with that.

good luck :thumbsup:
 
Some guys on this forum have done what @Berlin Germany sugested above and used RTV to get a second seal glued to the outside of the original. Here is a thread about it:

www.hayabusa.org

It works - classic DIY fix | Gen 2 Busa Information

my 95,200 Gen2 started leaking motor oil, a couple of drips every time i stopped. i was touring in Europe this june. Leak traced to leaking clutch pushrod seal, the pushrod was rusty in places with worn shiny patch. Degreased fully engine crankcase and new Push rod seal. High temperature...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
 
yeah @mabupa

and for or better against the rusty rod we here have THE solution

this here

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it does two great jobs in one
1. it covers the entire rod by the "pipe" - from slave to the seal in the crankase
2. it covers the slave´s piston against all kind of dirt by its flange

it fits at gen1 and gen2
with one little unfortunate context
the "rear" m6 nut scratches a little bit at the chain at front sprocket and you can hear it the first let me say 1000 miles
then the chain took its place back by scratching away the nut and no more noise is audible.

i could only strongly recommend this piece - i already "sold" it, i guess, around 4 dozen (or more) times

here a pic of a gen1 sprocket cover with the piece above

asbs_montiert.jpg

the "blue" is a thread locking glue ;)

mostly available at kojak´s german hayabusa shop
(for the exact description follow this link to google online translation)
kojak is also a member of this forum - see here
@Kojak
 
@mabupa

at 2nd

whenever i will find that leaking seal i will try to glue into the crankase housing wall a "standard" seal without that "wreath / lip" that usually grabs into that gap / milled indentation in the crankase´s wall.

as @c10 wrote in that post the kawasaki seal has no such lip and my yamaha fj1200 seal is built same way like the kawa. seal is simply plugged in - thats all.

at the moment i have technically no clue if the pressure inside the busa´s gearbox housing is so high that it would press out a seal without a lip.

but if you compare the gearboxes in general, the pressure in the busa´s gearbox housing should not be so high that the seal would be pushed out.

as I said - in the next case of leaks at that seal I will do the test and glue in a standard seal with temp-resistant (180 ° C and higher) silicone.

the main thing with that would be that both, the seal´s inner and outer diameter, fit 100% exactly.

if this, my idea, would work fine @Kiwi Rider :goodboy: (:p) won´t make anymore that big money turnover (pulling the engine and so on - in summ ~ 15 h)
the costs would drop to less then 1/10 of these costs
 
Last edited:
Berlin Germany said:
it fits at gen1 and gen2
with one little unfortunate context
the "rear" m6 nut scratches a little bit at the chain at front sprocket and you can hear it the first let me say 1000 miles
then the chain took its place back by scratching away the nut and no more noise is audible.
Click to expand...

sorry i forgott a little detail ;)

this scratching- i suppose for 99% - is caused by the bigger standard front sprocket at the gen2
at gen1 it has standard 17 / at the gen2 18 standard teeth.
so i guess a 18 teeth sprocket at the gen1 would cause the same noise at 1st 1000mi. ;)
 
Welcome, it is a brave thing you are doing and with all luck you will have resurrected that old gal..which is never a bad thing.

Keep us up to date with your adventure...
 
If this ever happens again I will absolutely try gluing a second seal on the outside. I think the seal is missing the rubber on the inside hole and that's the leak. Not sure though as I never saw the leak. And that push rod tube looks pretty legit, is it bolted onto the clutch cover? The noise part of that doesnt make me want to try it though haha. I'm not missing bolts, I'm wondering how important it is to replace sealing washers on them. They look pretty good so I think I'll just reuse the ones I missed in my order. The haynes manual is gen 1 k2 hayabusa specific so I think I'm good there. In fact the manuals step by step with pictures made so much sense to me that I ordered one for the ninja for my fork seals and steering head bearings which I'm attempting also for the first time. But I did follow a pm to more manuals. I'm always down for more research. I ordered 2 torque wrenches to meet the standards upon reassembly. Had to get a rear stand as I have no center stand and a bike jack to get the engine in when it's time. Motul 10w40, engine ice, suzuki bond, and all the gaskets and seals totaling somewhere around 500 I'd say. The gaskets and seals were the least inexpensive, setting up with the right tools and materials is what did it. My buddy was sure all I needed was that oil seal but going through the manual and seeing all the tools and gaskets and seals made me want to do it right.

No answer on my grimy piston crowns?
 
lafave132 said:
If this ever happens again I will absolutely try gluing a second seal on the outside. I think the seal is missing the rubber on the inside hole and that's the leak. Not sure though as I never saw the leak. And that push rod tube looks pretty legit, is it bolted onto the clutch cover? The noise part of that doesnt make me want to try it though haha. I'm not missing bolts, I'm wondering how important it is to replace sealing washers on them. They look pretty good so I think I'll just reuse the ones I missed in my order. The haynes manual is gen 1 k2 hayabusa specific so I think I'm good there. In fact the manuals step by step with pictures made so much sense to me that I ordered one for the ninja for my fork seals and steering head bearings which I'm attempting also for the first time. But I did follow a pm to more manuals. I'm always down for more research. I ordered 2 torque wrenches to meet the standards upon reassembly. Had to get a rear stand as I have no center stand and a bike jack to get the engine in when it's time. Motul 10w40, engine ice, suzuki bond, and all the gaskets and seals totaling somewhere around 500 I'd say. The gaskets and seals were the least inexpensive, setting up with the right tools and materials is what did it. My buddy was sure all I needed was that oil seal but going through the manual and seeing all the tools and gaskets and seals made me want to do it right.

No answer on my grimy piston crowns?
Click to expand...
As per your "grimy" piston crowns...as long as the "grime" doesn't have oil in it it should be OK.

Carbon deposits on piston crowns usually come from a result as excessive idling and an improper AFR...it could have been running rich or have been run quite a bit at low rpms...or crappy fuel.

These engines like to be revved out from time to time to blow out the carbon so to speak but because they are so fast, sometimes that doesn't happen.
 
How does one get the kit if they live in the us? And is there any benefit to getting one if your seal is fine? Thanks
 
That motor WAS running OK. What did I miss in your thread? Why are you tearing this motor apart?
Rubb.
 
lafave132 said:
Clutch pushrod oil seal replacement makes me separate crankcase, causing me to remove major items like cylinder head
Click to expand...
You my friend are about to learn a lot. I would consider trying to borrow some of the tools required for this job instead of buying them unless you plan to tear motors apart in the future.Over the years I have had several bikes dumped in my lap,or that I bought in cardboard boxes.
Anybody can pull a motor apart...putting it back together is the tricky bit. :laugh: If you are not 100% sure on something,I would ask the fella's before "winging it",best of luck,
Rubb.
 
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