Clutch pushrod oil seal & breaking open the engine

[lafave132]

so no damn experiance with that? poor motor i only can resume.

shame?

man the entire gen1 manual has ~ 600 pages
and you want all the info and knowledge in some 10 or 20 lines of writing here?

this idea would be a nonsense because impossible.

if you wanna suck sombody´s experiance sit next 10 years beside him and watch what and in what way / in what manner he does what he does.
and after some years of sitting there you will only have a little idea what is still missing in your knowledge.

or should i for example tell you my knowledge built in over 35 years in 30 lines here?

how did i say to an other young man?
yes. (try to quote myself)
"i forgot in the last 40 years more than he learned in his 30 years of life".
so think a bit about this and then write shame again
and i´ll feel like a by the queen´s sword touched man and everybody has to call me "Sire", because then I would be a nobleman.

Bro, I'm not asking you to turn my wrenches or inconvieniencing you by posting questions I have in my first engine break down. I have a step by step manual and downloaded the suzuki manual. But reading the lines and thinking I know is different than getting an experts opinion like yourself as you claim. I'm not asking you to give me your entire brain in this thread. I'm here, in a forum specific to hayabusa engines, to ask y'all's advice. So take it how you want to, you can dish it but can't stand it when someone doesn't let you walk all over them? Chill

[rubbersidedown]

Looks like yer oil pan is toast. It may have been improperly used as a jack point,or the motor was put down hard,maybe hit a speed bump or something. Sometimes aluminum parts can appear to be cracked and not be,I dont think thats the case here.
Removing the head was not necessary as @GIXERHP pointed out,because the Busa motor has a crankcase that splits horizontally. Motors split vertically as well,that when you need to take the head(s) off.If you have a trans issue on a Busa,not much needs to come off up top,you go at it from the bottom. I wouldn't worry about it now,that ship has sailed.It's a shame you did all that extra as your motor was running fine and is a low miler from the pics you have posted. Manuals are awesome,a must for somethings,but asking here will help too. Most of us have time and patience,its all good.
Its personal preference I suppose,but over the years I've favored Clymer manuals over Haynes.
Rubb.

[GIXERHP]

Never broke into a motor before, never seen it either. I usually do a lot of research before doing a job. In this case, I'd be searching forever to find all the answers for every little gap in my knowledge, or big gap I should say. By all means, don't feel obligated to reply to my questions. I try to search for answers before I ask.

I'm assuming the gap there is supposed to be the .03-.06 I've seen them talk about? I don't plan on disassembling the components, I just want to check everything before I put it back together. Makes no sense to be that deep and not replace something if it needs it. But I have no qualms in putting her back with everything the same minus that seal. I also am not too prideful to f*ck up an engine because I didn't want to ask y'all's advice.

Some of y'all live to tell those with questions to quit asking. To you sir, and those, I say shame. To everyone else, thanks for the tips and knowledge!

ring gap with just the ring set in the Cylinder, in the Suzuki manual is .020, first and second rings

[GIXERHP]

Looks like yer oil pan is toast. It may have been improperly used as a jack point,or the motor was put down hard,maybe hit a speed bump or something. Sometimes aluminum parts can appear to be cracked and not be,I dont think thats the case here.
Removing the head was not necessary as @GIXERHP pointed out,because the Busa motor has a crankcase that splits horizontally. Motors split vertically as well,that when you need to take the head(s) off.If you have a trans issue on a Busa,not much needs to come off up top,you go at it from the bottom. I wouldn't worry about it now,that ship has sailed.It's a shame you did all that extra as your motor was running fine and is a low miler from the pics you have posted. Manuals are awesome,a must for somethings,but asking here will help too. Most of us have time and patience,its all good.
Its personal preference I suppose,but over the years I've favored Clymer manuals over Haynes.
Rubb.

As for the oil pan, that's how most all Zuks pans look, if it Not leaking it's fine

[bigdr]

Bro, I'm not asking you to turn my wrenches or inconvieniencing you by posting questions I have in my first engine break down. I have a step by step manual and downloaded the suzuki manual. But reading the lines and thinking I know is different than getting an experts opinion like yourself as you claim. I'm not asking you to give me your entire brain in this thread. I'm here, in a forum specific to hayabusa engines, to ask y'all's advice. So take it how you want to, you can dish it but can't stand it when someone doesn't let you walk all over them? Chill

Easy there tiger ..
That man has forgotten more about busa's than most of us will ever know ,
He's one of the most knowledgable and helpful guys here ..

[Bumblebee]

Easy there tiger ..
That man has forgotten more about busa's than most of us will ever know ,
He's one of the most knowledgable and helpful guys here ..

@lafave132 Yep, biting a hand that feeds you will find you putting this thing back together on your own....he is one of the regular posters and is very quick to lend a helping post on fixing Hayabusas.....

Remember @Berlin Germany primary language is German and he is translating what he reads and says....much better I might add if I (or many of us) were doing this.

[lafave132]

Looks like yer oil pan is toast. It may have been improperly used as a jack point,or the motor was put down hard,maybe hit a speed bump or something. Sometimes aluminum parts can appear to be cracked and not be,I dont think thats the case here.
Removing the head was not necessary as @GIXERHP pointed out,because the Busa motor has a crankcase that splits horizontally. Motors split vertically as well,that when you need to take the head(s) off.If you have a trans issue on a Busa,not much needs to come off up top,you go at it from the bottom. I wouldn't worry about it now,that ship has sailed.It's a shame you did all that extra as your motor was running fine and is a low miler from the pics you have posted. Manuals are awesome,a must for somethings,but asking here will help too. Most of us have time and patience,its all good.
Its personal preference I suppose,but over the years I've favored Clymer manuals over Haynes.
Rubb.

The inside of the oil pan shows no cracking. I see one on ebay for about 70$ that I will order if this one leaks.

So how would y'all have done it? Just taken off the crankcase covers? What risks of the motor not running correctly are there now that I have taken the head off?

[lafave132]

As for the oil pan, that's how most all Zuks pans look, if it Not leaking it's fine

Cool, the inside shows no cracks so I was planning on using it and replacing if needed

[lafave132]

Easy there tiger ..
That man has forgotten more about busa's than most of us will ever know ,
He's one of the most knowledgable and helpful guys here ..

Big, bumble, and Berlin: yeah, I didn't mean to cause offense. I know you lead with big sorry before your post. I'm a bit crass myself sometimes and maybe didn't have my morning cig or something

[JeffSyh]

You tore a part a perfectly running engine why not big bore it? Whats a kit worth for Americans $1000 with a good cylinder core? I would upgrade my cylinder studs while I'm there at the very least. I'm not sure if the stock ones stretch at all I'm sure there is a measurement in the book for them.

[lafave132]

The haynes tells me to take apart the clutch and starter clutch, or at least the first few components of them. Do I need to do this just to pull apart the crankcase? Seems like they just sit in between the halves.... I have the new oil seals for them if I do have to remove the components up to them

[lafave132]

The haynes tells me to take apart the clutch and starter clutch, or at least the first few components of them. Do I need to do this just to pull apart the crankcase? Seems like they just sit in between the halves.... I have the new oil seals for them if I do have to remove the components up to them

It tells me to do break down the starter clutch in order to remove the front cam chain guide

[GIXERHP]

It tells me to do break down the starter clutch in order to remove the front cam chain guide

Leave the cam chain runner in place but remove all the gears , to make it easier to clean the lower case halves.
Is the cylinder removed?

[lafave132]

Leave the cam chain runner in place but remove all the gears , to make it easier to clean the lower case halves.
Is the cylinder removed?

Yep. I guess when I removed all the bolts and such for removing the cylinder head, I took the cylinder along with it

[mabupa]

The inside of the oil pan shows no cracking. I see one on ebay for about 70$ that I will order if this one leaks.

So how would y'all have done it? Just taken off the crankcase covers? What risks of the motor not running correctly are there now that I have taken the head off?

I think the pan will be ok. My other Suzuki is a dual sport and the whole motor looks just like that from the factory. Tons of guys get home on their new dual sport and start posting pictures on the Facebook page panicking when they take a closer look and see those marks.

[Bumblebee]

It certainly is no small undertaking to disassemble and then reassemble an engine...especially a high performance, close tolerance engine like this one.

You will be maxing out your skill sets to do this....the end success will be when it starts and runs-this endeavor can get very expensive quickly.

[GIXERHP]

you tripled the cost when you took the top end apart. Just what was needed for the rod seals is a about $100 plus a oil change. Now do your self a favor, Leave the rods on the Crankshaft, unless your going to re bearing the motor.
If it was me at this point, since your there, i would do everything now, Valve Job, new rings, on the Mains and Rods.

[Berlin Germany]

(...)
If it was me at this point, since your there, i would do everything now, Valve Job, new rings, on the Mains and Rods.

jep

if i was at that very "late" point, means head and block off, i would do so too - the number of hours you invested to get here are so high that not doing the entire work would be "the top of mountain" nonsense than the job to pull head and block at around 30 00 miles without any faulty behavior of the motor.

new rings, valve seats regrinding until the sealing surfaces shine like new again, valve stem seals new and putting the valve clearances to their maximum acc. to manual at least.

[GIXERHP]

jep

if i was at that very "late" point, means head and block off, i would do so too - the number of hours you invested to get here are so high that not doing the entire work would be "the top of mountain" nonsense than the job to pull head and block at around 30 00 miles without any faulty behavior of the motor.

new rings, valve seats regrinding until the sealing surfaces shine like new again, valve stem seals new and putting the valve clearances to their maximum acc. to manual at least.

We need to grab a chair and some popcorn,,,
Oh dam, i have 3 motors to build,,,

[Berlin Germany]

We need to grab a chair and some popcorn,,,
Oh dam, i have 3 motors to build,,,

don´t forget the drink - the corn alone is too "dry"

and
if u hurry a bit (10 h workin time a day) and got already the (standard) motors out and got already all spare parts in the shelf
u´ll need a week to do the 3-motors-job