odds of it being that far out are negligible. For those with sunken shaped sprockets can put a piece of flat bar metal across.They also sell adjustable ones to set the line at which it throws the beam.
Rubb.
Chain adjustment
- Thread starter bluebusa13204
- Start date
Rubb.
does the oil from that Oiler get thrown onto your bike? Does it make the bike any dirtier? Thanks
Hayabusa Wannabe
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Mythos
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@Hayabusa Wannabe you mean measure the distance from the front of the adjuster block to the surface where the adjuster bolt enters? I've done that on my ZX-14 but that adjuster bolt is dead center on the block. You'll see the busa's adjuster bolt is not centered on the adjuster block which causes the block to cock a bit in the slot. That makes caliper measurements a little problematic. I don't think it was a bad way to do it as long as you are certain both blocks are symmetrical in shape and both are equally cocked and you measure from exactly the same points on both sides. Starting to sound like a lot of variables.
I have tightened my 14's adjuster bolts all the way in to zero, then mark the outer facing flat with paint. Count the number of turns + flats it takes to get the chain adjusted. With equal turns + flats on both sides, it was perfect. My rear sprocket had uniform wear on both sides when I changed it. Initially the process is pretty tedious. After that, just turn one flat (usually not even that much) on each side to adjust the chain. I did the same on my busa and so far I'm not aware of uneven sprocket wear. I'll be changing chain and sprocket soon so I'll know for sure.
As far as using a measuring tool, I think something that measures a long distance like axle to swingarm pivot will be a lot more accurate than measuring a short distance like the length the adjuster bolt is extended. There are tools for measuring axle to swingarm pivot or maybe it's axle to engine mount. The question as to whether the swingarm pivot or engine mount is perfectly perpendicular to an aligned chain still remains.
I have tightened my 14's adjuster bolts all the way in to zero, then mark the outer facing flat with paint. Count the number of turns + flats it takes to get the chain adjusted. With equal turns + flats on both sides, it was perfect. My rear sprocket had uniform wear on both sides when I changed it. Initially the process is pretty tedious. After that, just turn one flat (usually not even that much) on each side to adjust the chain. I did the same on my busa and so far I'm not aware of uneven sprocket wear. I'll be changing chain and sprocket soon so I'll know for sure.
As far as using a measuring tool, I think something that measures a long distance like axle to swingarm pivot will be a lot more accurate than measuring a short distance like the length the adjuster bolt is extended. There are tools for measuring axle to swingarm pivot or maybe it's axle to engine mount. The question as to whether the swingarm pivot or engine mount is perfectly perpendicular to an aligned chain still remains.
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Mythos
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Thinking over the various tools used to align the chain, this seemed to be the most reliable. After thinking it through, I see a problem with using it. The chain has about 1/16 inch left to right play on the sprocket. The chain slides left to right with the rear sprocket teeth stopping it. I'm sure this must be case with the front sprocket too. The chain may be misaligned up to 1/8" with the sprockets at any given time. If you are willing to remove the sprocket cover and pull the chain all the way to the left against the teeth and then do the same with the rear sprocket, it might be as precise as it appears it should.
Doesn't matter how much the chain slides left to right my brother,that is inevititable and out of our control with what we have to work with,with today's technology. The chain doesn't fit 100% snug on the sprogs.If it did,the heat generated,the friction generated would be too great.
The best we can do,is make sure the chain is straight. Taking off the front sprocket cover is unecessary in my mind. If you have 20 or 30 links in a near perfect line,the rest must follow suit. If they don't,which is near impossible,it would mean the chain is bent. That has never happened that I have seen or heard of,unless its a catastrophic failure or from the impact suffered in a collision. These chains are pretty sturdy.
Sleep well my friend...it's OK...yer chain is straight.
I do the same thing.
Mythos
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The chain may be parallel to the rear sprocket for the time being. The axle may have been adjusted to compensate for a potential 1/8" out of flushness caused by a chain not being centered on the sprockets. Ride the bike, the chain will move left and right on the sprockets and it's not aligned anymore.If you have 20 or 30 links in a near perfect line,the rest must follow suit. ...
Sleep well my friend...it's OK...yer chain is straight.
View attachment 1624872 Rubb.
You might get the chain aligned perfectly using the swingarm marks and then second guess it almost an eight inch out of alignment using that tool.
Same goes for the alignment tools with cones that fit in axle hole and swingarm pivot hole. The busa has a much smaller hole on one side of the swigarm pivot than the other so the cones can't fit the same on both sides even if the alignment is perfect. Not to mention there's no law of nature stating the swingarm pivot must be parallel to the countershaft. It would still function as needed if it were off by a few degrees.
I think I'll just stick with my method.
Tighten the locknuts up to head of the adjuster bolt.
Thread both ajuster bolts all the way into the swingarm. This is your zero mark, the farthest point the axle can be moved forward. If anything about the OEM swingarm is identical on both sides, it ought to be this. If the axle is placed here, the rear sprocket will be aligned to the front. The chain will have a perfectly straight path to follow around the sprockets.
Count the number of rotations/flats required to adjust the chain to the proper tension. The rotations/flats must be the same count on both adjuster bolts so that continuity is maintained with the zero mark on both ends of the axle. Both adjuster bolts have 1.25 threads/millimeter. One rotation = 360° = 0.8 mm in or out on both sides. One flat = 60° = 0.2083 millimeters in or out on both sides. It has to work if you believe thread pitch is very accurate and assuming the zero mark is aligned with the countershaft as it should be.
Loosen your locknuts off the heads of teh adjuster bolts. Thread the locknuts up to the zero mark and tighten. Tighten axle nut and the chain should be should be darn near perfectly aligned to the sprockets.
Total pain in the arse to set it up initially but after that, you only will be turning one flat each time you adjust your chain tension until the chain is worn out. Forget the damn marks on the swingarm, just count flats. Mark the flats and make sure you don't screw up clockwise and counterclockwise!! This worked flawlessly on my ZX-14. It also seemed to correspond to the swing arm marks. When I finally got right on one, the other side was right on too. The wear on the rear sprocket and the front sprocket was equal on both sides so that chain was running straight. I used this technique on my busa too and we will see how the sprockets look when I change them soon.
Now if this method ever fails, then I'd say it's time to try a special tool.
The Motion-Pro tool is always going to indicate straight unless you have a lateral kink in the chain like Rubb said. You clamp it on the chain, of course it will be straight with the rest of the chain if the rest of the chain isn't bent laterally. I'm smellin me some snake oil...on all of these alignment tools...especially that expensive cone tool.
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Art teacher right? Man you should be working for NASA or something. You dive into a topic with tenacity. No stone un turned and all that.Nuclear physisist or something.The chain may be parallel to the rear sprocket for the time being. The axle may have been adjusted to compensate for a potential 1/8" out of flushness caused by a chain not being centered on the sprockets. Ride the bike, the chain will move left and right on the sprockets and it's not aligned anymore.
You might get the chain aligned perfectly using the swingarm marks and then second guess it almost an eight inch out of alignment using that tool.
Same goes for the alignment tools with cones that fit in axle hole and swingarm pivot hole. The busa has a much smaller hole on one side of the swigarm pivot than the other so the cones can't fit the same on both sides even if the alignment is perfect. Not to mention there's no law of nature stating the swingarm pivot must be parallel to the countershaft. It would still function as needed if it were off by a few degrees.
I think I'll just stick with my method.
Tighten the locknuts up to head of the adjuster bolt.
Thread both ajuster bolts all the way into the swingarm. This is your zero mark, the farthest point the axle can be moved forward. If anything about the OEM swingarm is identical on both sides, it ought to be this. If the axle is placed here, the rear sprocket will be aligned to the front. The chain will have a perfectly straight path to follow around the sprockets.
Count the number of rotations/flats required to adjust the chain to the proper tension. The rotations/flats must be the same count on both adjuster bolts so that continuity is maintained with the zero mark on both ends of the axle. Both adjuster bolts have 1.25 threads/millimeter. One rotation = 360° = 0.8 mm in or out on both sides. One flat = 60° = 0.2083 millimeters in or out on both sides. It has to work if you believe thread pitch is very accurate and assuming the zero mark is aligned with the countershaft as it should be.
Loosen your locknuts off the heads of teh adjuster bolts. Thread the locknuts up to the zero mark and tighten. Tighten axle nut and the chain should be should be darn near perfectly aligned to the sprockets.
Total pain in the arse to set it up initially but after that, you only will be turning one flat each time you adjust your chain tension until the chain is worn out. Forget the damn marks on the swingarm, just count flats. Mark the flats and make sure you don't screw up clockwise and counterclockwise!! This worked flawlessly on my ZX-14. It also seemed to correspond to the swing arm marks. When I finally got right on one, the other side was right on too. The wear on the rear sprocket and the front sprocket was equal on both sides so that chain was running straight. I used this technique on my busa too and we will see how the sprockets look when I change them soon.
Now if this method ever fails, then I'd say it's time to try a special tool.
The Motion-Pro tool is always going to indicate straight unless you have a lateral kink in the chain like Rubb said. You clamp it on the chain, of course it will be straight with the rest of the chain if the rest of the chain isn't bent laterally. I'm smellin me some snake oil.
Truth be told...I just eye ball my chain.
Rubb.
Mythos
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Thank you @rubbersidedown I think I could have maybe been a decent engineer had I the right encouragement much earlier in life. LOL my high school art teacher even suggested that!! but it was a little late at that point.
I eyeball my chain too but zeroing the adjuster bolts the first time I install a new chain gives me confidence. It's sort of like a torque wrench. The torque wrench should be perfect but you need to have feel too. I have screwed up with a torque wrench by not paying attention to what I was seeing and feeling.
but it was a little late at that point.I eyeball my chain too but zeroing the adjuster bolts the first time I install a new chain gives me confidence. It's sort of like a torque wrench. The torque wrench should be perfect but you need to have feel too. I have screwed up with a torque wrench by not paying attention to what I was seeing and feeling.
scotty - 12
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The chain in the video looks a bit too tight to me. Usually about 1.25/1.5 “ movement up/down is correct.
RedBull
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PhillipHarvey
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Chain adjustment after every 300 miles would be hectic and disturbing just like you planned to travel for 1000 miles on a motorcycle then how is it possible to handle this time and again? The rider will be fed up shortly and lose his interest in motorcycle riding. So to get out of this hectic situation riders must be aware of some useful tools like the motion pro slacksetter pro chain tool.
The OP you quoted hasn't been on here since Jun 2022 so might or might not get the information you posted.
I've never personally adjusted a chain after 300 miles-never needed to, I've checked them to make sure they were GTG but never had to adjust them after such a short time.
The chain I currently have on my bike hasn't needed adjusted at all....
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