Chain adjustment

bluebusa13204

Registered
As per the bike manual you should adjust your chain every 500 miles. What do people do when going on a long ride let's say for 1000 miles one way? Would it stretch that much where adjustment would be needed? Just wondering. And it seems it would not be that convenient to do while on a long ride.
 
You should just check the adjustment, clean and lube. I normally clean and lube mine every 300 miles. It has not needed adjustment in the 3000 miles. I have one of these tools to check alignment.

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something wrong if your adjusting your chain all the time , I adjust a new chain couple times after that its clean and lube , on long trips if it rains I will lube the chain if not I leave it alone and clean and lube when I get home.
 
As per the bike manual you should adjust your chain every 500 miles. What do people do when going on a long ride let's say for 1000 miles one way? Would it stretch that much where adjustment would be needed? Just wondering. And it seems it would not be that convenient to do while on a long ride.
The 500 mile is kind of a check if it needs it type of thing. There are options for easy to carry tools to get the rear wheel up to clean the chain and adjust if necessary when on long trips and I believe @c10 has shown us a few of his in the past. As long as u have a good chain and maintain it you shouldn't have much to worry about to often after the first couple thousand miles when the chain gets broken in.
 
As per the bike manual you should adjust your chain every 500 miles. What do people do when going on a long ride let's say for 1000 miles one way? Would it stretch that much where adjustment would be needed? Just wondering. And it seems it would not be that convenient to do while on a long ride.
You should just check the adjustment, clean and lube. I normally clean and lube mine every 300 miles. It has not needed adjustment in the 3000 miles. I have one of these tools to check alignment.

View attachment 1621210
I had to adjust the chain a couple of times when new but just clean and lube after that.
The 500 mile is kind of a check if it needs it type of thing. There are options for easy to carry tools to get the rear wheel up to clean the chain and adjust if necessary when on long trips and I believe @c10 has shown us a few of his in the past. As long as u have a good chain and maintain it you shouldn't have much to worry about to often after the first couple thousand miles when the chain gets broken in.
Profi-CAT Laser
See it in use
:thumbsup:
Rubb.
 


yes dear - the laser tool is definitely the very best tool!

and for maintaning the chain i use an auto chain oiler - the most simple system forced by the low/under pressure taken from one (4th) connector at the throttle
called "Scottoiler V-system"
Scotti_Ansicht_Seite_optimal.jpg


with that my chain last for more than 60,000 km

adjusting my chain every 3-4,000 km if its slack is bigger than 40 mm
 
As per the bike manual you should adjust your chain every 500 miles. What do people do when going on a long ride let's say for 1000 miles one way? Would it stretch that much where adjustment would be needed? Just wondering. And it seems it would not be that convenient to do while on a long ride.

What? What manual sz to adjust it every 500 miles? I (lube) mine every 500 miles or so and only adjust it when needed. And it seldom needs it. My new Z has almost 10K on it and I’ve only adjusted it twice. Maybe those of us who have successfully ridden thousands of miles on chain driven bikes should write these ‘manuals’.
 
I had to adjust the chain a couple of times when new but just clean and lube after that.
What bob said. A new chain wears in rapidly but after the first three adjustments or so, it doesn't need adjustment every 500 miles. Adjust your chain to the minimum tension. Measure the chain slack to check it. The chain should touch the swingarm chain guide with only the bikes weight on the suspension. A tight chain will wear faster and so will the sprockets. The countershaft bearings can be damaged if you go too tight. Go looser rather than tighter. Remember the chain gets tighter from movement of the suspension and also speed tightens it from centrifugal force.

As long as you adjust tthe chain properly before you go on your trip, it probably will be fine for 1000 miles. If new, it will get a bit loose but I doubt loose enough to fall off.
 
One thing about chain adjustment that’s got nothing to do with cleaning is having the adjustment ‘sweet’ can make gear changes smooth.A few mm too tight/loose can ‘unsweeten’ gear changes.
True dat. Don't even get me started on lost horsepower...:eek:
Properly adjusted chain,use Amsoil in the tranny,race cut gears,proper Motul chain lube,etc.Smooooth shifts. I get kick backs for product endorsements.;) A nickle a plug.Wahooo. Oh, NGK plugs.:thumbsup:
Rubb.
1621245
 
One thing about chain adjustment that’s got nothing to do with cleaning is having the adjustment ‘sweet’ can make gear changes smooth.A few mm too tight/loose can ‘unsweeten’ gear changes.

After many years of maintaining chains on bikes, I can hear if the chain isn't true...or if it needs cleaning/lubing.

I find it interesting that after all these years, the chain is still the most effective way to get maximum horsepower to the tire.
 
10-4. :thumbsup: The laser can be thrown down the length of chain between the outer plate and inner plate on one side of the chain.
Excuse my shaky hand.:laugh:
Rubb.
View attachment 1621243
I purchased something similar that I posted about awhile back that called the chain monkey, its worked well on a few other people's bikes I did the chain on but my vortex rear sprocket isn't flat on both sides so it makes it a pain to use on my busa and ot doesn't have the full length beam like that one. Over all I think my 15 dollar motion pro tool works better and definitely easier but now this one has my attention.
 
I purchased something similar that I posted about awhile back that called the chain monkey, its worked well on a few other people's bikes I did the chain on but my vortex rear sprocket isn't flat on both sides so it makes it a pain to use on my busa and ot doesn't have the full length beam like that one. Over all I think my 15 dollar motion pro tool works better and definitely easier but now this one has my attention.
Cool. Glad you found it informative.:thumbsup:
Rubb.
 
yes dear - the laser tool is definitely the very best tool!

It can't be other than perfect. From the video, it looks like the laser beam is about a milimeter in diameter. Is that correct?

10-4. :thumbsup: The laser can be thrown down the length of chain between the outer plate and inner plate on one side of the chain.

So we have a very small laser dot for precision, the laser beam is parallel to the sprocket, the chain is adjusted so that it also runs parallel to the sprocket.

What if the sprocket isn't flat? If the sprocket runout is barely in spec, does that necessarily mean the laser tool will be accurate?
 
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