Can't Bust The Axle Loose on My '06

[RedBusarider]

LOL, gotta love these threads. OP first post says he also has an 11.

BTW, I just park my Harley next to the Busa and rev it a bit. Vibrates all the nuts loose on the Busa.

Your right he did say he had an 11.
But the thread was titled "Can't Bust The Axle Loose on My 06" - so I was confused as to why he posted a pic of his 11.

Kinda expected to see a pic of the 06 with the axle rod out of it. Maybe even a little of the "rust" he spoke of that gave him such a hard time. ???

Oh well, Hope if he changes his own tires he has better luck and that it will go together better then it came apart. lease:

 

[jellyrug]

Your right he did say he had an 11.
But the thread was titled "Can't Bust The Axle Loose on My 06" - so I was confused as to why he posted a pic of his 11.

Kinda expected to see a pic of the 06 with the axle rod out of it. Maybe even a little of the "rust" he spoke of that gave him such a hard time. ???

Oh well, Hope if he changes his own tires he has better luck and that it will go together better then it came apart. lease:

No worries, just jokin.

Seriously though, I use my torque wrench to both loosen and tighten front and rear axles. I'm sure if the wrench had to approach its maximum torque value on the front axle, the axle itself will snap.

 

[BA BUSA]

No worries, just jokin.

Seriously though, I use my torque wrench to both loosen and tighten front and rear axles. I'm sure if the wrench had to approach its maximum torque value on the front axle, the axle itself will snap.

Torque wrenches should never be used
to "break" loose nuts and bolts, only to
tighten them...torque them to spec.

 

[jellyrug]

Torque wrenches should never be used
to "break" loose nuts and bolts, only to
tighten them...torque them to spec.

It depends on whether you know what you are doing.

On a wrench that torques both ways, if you exceed the capacity, yes you will throw the wrench out of calibration.

For the original posters situation, if I was afraid of causing damage, I would have used a torque wrench with adequate scale, to ensure I do not snap the shaft due to a seized nut.

 

[BA BUSA]

It depends on whether you know what you are doing.

On a wrench that torques both ways, if you exceed the capacity, yes you will throw the wrench out of calibration.

For the original posters situation, if I was afraid of causing damage, I would have used a torque wrench with adequate scale, to ensure I do not snap the shaft due to a seized nut.

There's a right tool for the right job, why use a
expensive Torque wrench vs a inexpensive breaker
bar ???
"A Torque Wrench Should Never be Used to Loosen Fasteners
This one is the truth. You might argue that if a torque wrench can handle tightening bolts to 250 ft-lbs, it should be able to reliably handle loosening that same bolt. And this is true, but when it comes to loosening a fastener you don’t always know what’s going to be required to get it loose.
After several heat cycles and the accumulation of dirt and grime that can coat everything in a race car, a bolt can gall against the threads and require a lot more torque to remove than was required to originally install. Most of us don’t watch the torque when loosening bolts, so it’s quite possible to exceed the maximum torque loading of a wrench when breaking bolts loose. The wrench will still function in terms of tightening or loosening bolts, but by exceeding its maximum torque limit loosening that tight bolt may have thrown off the calibration."


Read more: Torque Wrench Myths - Circle Track Magazine

If you are gonna use your tools this way...please
let me know what shop you work at so I NEVER
bring my vehicle there!

 

[jellyrug]

There's a right tool for the right job, why use a
expensive Torque wrench vs a inexpensive breaker
bar ???
"A Torque Wrench Should Never be Used to Loosen Fasteners
This one is the truth. You might argue that if a torque wrench can handle tightening bolts to 250 ft-lbs, it should be able to reliably handle loosening that same bolt. And this is true, but when it comes to loosening a fastener you don’t always know what’s going to be required to get it loose.
After several heat cycles and the accumulation of dirt and grime that can coat everything in a race car, a bolt can gall against the threads and require a lot more torque to remove than was required to originally install. Most of us don’t watch the torque when loosening bolts, so it’s quite possible to exceed the maximum torque loading of a wrench when breaking bolts loose. The wrench will still function in terms of tightening or loosening bolts, but by exceeding its maximum torque limit loosening that tight bolt may have thrown off the calibration."


Read more: Torque Wrench Myths - Circle Track Magazine

If you are gonna use your tools this way...please
let me know what shop you work at so I NEVER
bring my vehicle there!

Same here, if you are going to loosen a seized bolt with a bar until the shaft snaps, my bike will not come your way.

BA, I agree it is not good practice to loosen bolts with a torque wrench and if you have folks (mechanics) working for you, best practice is not to allow them to do that. I think we both know over-torque on a wrench will throw it out of calibration and over torque on a bolt either way will either strip the threads or snap the bolt.

Nothing to argue about.

If you really want to split hairs, on a Gen II Busa, provided you have some degree of hand skills, the only wheel bolts that really need to be torqued are the front axle pinch bolts.

 

[E Zurcher]

You shouldn't use any wrench with a ratchet to loosen frozen bolts. Ratchet pawls can break and teeth strip easily. Always use a breaker bar, that is what they were designed for.

I guess you could use a torque wrench if you set it at it's highest setting and halted turning when it reaches it's set point but the best practice is to not use one at all and stick with a breaker bar.

 

[dadofthree]

You really only want to use one for torquing, tightening a nut / bolt. You shouldn't be rough with them at all, most come with a protective case, no dropping or throwing into a tool box.

Anyway did we get the axle nut busted loose ? Hint hint, as you back it out use the nut to knock the axle out the clutch side as you go. Follow that manual.

 

[jellyrug]

You really only want to use one for torquing, tightening a nut / bolt. You shouldn't be rough with them at all, most come with a protective case, no dropping or throwing into a tool box.

Anyway did we get the axle nut busted loose ? Hint hint, as you back it out use the nut to knock the axle out the clutch side as you go. Follow that manual.

He has all his nuts sorted out with a happy smile.

Lets talk torque wrenches, since the thread was hijacked.

Do you clean the nut and leave it dry, before using the torque wrench?

Do you lube the nut?

Do you use a beam style?

Do you use a click style?

Me, I did this stuff for a living 30 years ago and still have an old beam style wrench lying in my toolbox. Since I don't do this every day now, rather once a year, it is fine with me. In its simplicity, nothing can really go wrong with it, as it obeys the simple rules of physics and it does the job just fine. I use clean and dry parts, unless it is a Harley. Then it is locktite, the medium one.

Don't be surprised if you find out that most car dealer shops only use torque wrenches for critical jobs, such as cylinder heads, engine work etc. They wont tell you this, but most of the older techs do it simply by experience.

My pet pieve with a car dealer is wheel nuts. They don't torque, don't tighten incrementally across and screw up my rotors in no time.

 

[RedBusarider]

My pet pieve with a car dealer is wheel nuts. They don't torque, don't tighten incrementally across and screw up my rotors in no time.

That is why I won't let a dealer touch my vehicle - it would have to be a very complicated procedure that I didn't know
how to do or didn't have the tools to do the job and they were to costly to purchase for a one time use.

The last time I let a tire dealer rotate my tires (was a long time ago) they moved the fronts to the rears and vice versa.
No cris-crossing as it states even in the owners manual. Then of course they used impact wrenches and never did torque them.

Sorry for the hi-jack of this thread.

Oh well something to do while waiting for the OP to post pictures and report on his tire replacement and reinstall of the front wheel.

 

[dadofthree]

My pet pieve with a car dealer is wheel nuts. They don't torque, don't tighten incrementally across and screw up my rotors in no time.

That is why I won't let a dealer touch my vehicle - it would have to be a very complicated procedure that I didn't know
how to do or didn't have the tools to do the job and they were to costly to purchase for a one time use.

The last time I let a tire dealer rotate my tires (was a long time ago) they moved the fronts to the rears and vice versa.
No cris-crossing as it states even in the owners manual. Then of course they used impact wrenches and never did torque them.

Sorry for the hi-jack of this thread.

Oh well something to do while waiting for the OP to post pictures and report on his tire replacement and reinstall of the front wheel.

I wouldn't be. I don't think I need a torque wrench for every job and they're not made for every job

 

[jellyrug]

I wouldn't be. I don't think I need a torque wrench for every job and they're not made for every job

Eventually, between 25,000 to 60,000 miles a lot of vehicles (cars and pick-up trucks) will deliver slight pulsation on the brake pedal, due unequal torque and incorrect sequence of tightening wheel nuts. If you increase the braking load the pulsation increases. Under normal braking, most dealer mechanics will tell you it is normal and most won't notice it. I notice it immediately and under heavy pronounced repeated braking it becomes noticeable even to the layman.

I use to be an automotive engineer for Mercedes Benz, up to the mid 80's, training service techs, translating German manual to English and doing vehicle and component testing. The dealers were asked to use Mercedes specified equipment and procedures to tighten wheels, due the above. On the Autobahn, when you are doing 160mph and someone accidentally switches into the fast lane ahead of you, brakes become a very different animal compared to driving 70 mph on the US interstate.

 

[dadofthree]

Then sir you should know that a torque wrench is for torquing fasteners. Since I'm a high school graduate with absolutely no background what so ever I'll throw up a link Torque wrench - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[dadofthree]