A problem with my oil pan plug?

kawiboy11

kawiboy11

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Guys, got a small little problem. I changed the oil on my busa on Saturday. Everything was going great, until I unscrewed the oil plug & when it came out, so did what looks like a ring off of the inside of the thread for the pan. Now, the problem is when I tighten back up the oil plug, it won't completely snug, it will get tight, but if you try to get it tighter, it will loosen back up, and so on. It's only a very small leak, like a drip over time, do you have any ideas on what I can do? I would just replace the oil pan, but with the turbo, I would have to tap it out,

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stripped... probably need a helicoil...
 
that's what by buddy said, how do I go about doing that? Take the pan off, take it to a shop?

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Yep, sounds like she is stripped? I wouldn't ride it like that. If the plug loosens up and starts to leak more profusely you can and will end up in deep trouble if it reaches the rear tire. Also, you won't notice it's loosing oil until the light comes on and usually it's too late by that time and the engine is lunched.

I've never stripped the drain plug threads but I'm sure you can install a helicoil in that rascal. I'm sure others on here have had experience at that very problem and will chime in with some good suggestions?

Lots of guys end up with this problem. I always use a torque wrench on the oil plug for that very reason. Book calls for 23nm, I usually go with 20nm just to be safe.
 
I've heard of that before. Dealers over torqueing and over time wholla.  I would just get a new pan cause tapping is pretty easy.  that's just my .02.
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especially with all the money you got in that thing. I personaly would feed a bit anal about my bike
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Yeah, i am not riding it anymore, not going to take a chance, the oil would go fast with a LEAKY PLUG!
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Cody, yes take the pan off and take it to a machine shop. Either have a helicoil installed or have them drill it out for an oversize drain plug. Irf you take the pan off you could ship it to Smithers and Steve would fix you right up.
 
I put a helicoil in mine, but still had a small leak - bought a new pan - SAFETY 1ST
 
Heli coils really work good. My Harley had quite a few of them and I never stripped one of THEM out.
Just drill it with the supplied bit, in the kit, re-tap it, and install the coil, as simple as that.
I would remove the pan, to be safe, and to keep from getting any small shavings into the pan when you re-tap it out.
It's a piece of cake, and it will be much better than new; besides, you can always get a new pan anyway.
The advantage would be that you will have STEEL threads after you fix it, not aluminum ones. (to strip again at some later date)
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Jim
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I wouldn't use a helicoil if I had a choice between them and a new pan or a "time sert". "Time serts" are a steel thread insert that comes in a kit with installation tools(drill bit, tap, and install tool). They work extremely well and My father has used them for many years on his bikes. I will try to find a link for you.

Time sert
 
djorgensen3 @ Mar. 11 2008 said:
I wouldn't use a helicoil if I had a choice between them and a new pan or a "time sert".  "Time serts" are a steel thread insert that comes in a kit with installation tools(drill bit, tap, and install tool).  They work extremely well and My father has used them for many years on his bikes.  I will try to find a link for you.

Time sert
Click to expand...
+1 on the Time-sert idea. Keen-serts work the same way.

The major benefit of the Time-sert over a heli-coil is that the Time-sert is mechanically locked in place by self contained stakes. If you install a Time-sert with some Loctite 262, you will not have to worry about oil leaking between the pan and the Time-sert.

I have repaired many H-D FL models that also use an oil pan with this method with zero problems. Most were done while still on the bike. A right angle drill, some grease smeared around the hole (inside and out) to catch any errant chips, and a flush of the pan, combined with a steady hand and patience is all that's needed. Should not take longer than 15 to 20 minutes if you have never done it before.

Oh yeah, and perhaps a new drain plug and a crush-washer, and maybe a dab of Loctite PST for good measure. Tighten up the drain plug with a TORQUE WRENCH to 16.5 Ft. Lbs.
 
If you can stand the wait for a pan to come through the mail go that route. I could not wait so I took mine off and dropped it off a local machine shop. I paid $30 for a helicoil install and reused the old gasket with a little gasket maker for security. I have been keeping a check and no leaks so far. This was back in June last year.
 
I agree on removing the pan before helicoil as you dont want metal chips to get in your moter, as well as being in an awkward position with the drill. So if you are going to take it off anyway, throw it in the trash and get a new on. Save your pennies for an inch lb. torque wrench!
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I would not be afraid of a helicoil... it is not going to leak and it is stronger than the original threads.. the oil sealing takes place at the crush washer so in some respects you are better off with helicoil than some of the larger inserts that encroach on the sealing flats of the crush washer..

We have used helicoils on aluminum pans for 30 year without issue... Oversize pan plugs are "ok" but best for use on steel pans IMO..

there is a "rubber" expandable plug that works in an emergency btw...
 
I would do a search here and SH.org on the word "helicoil" and see the countless guys who have had success and failures and decide for yoursellf.
 
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