Windscreen Removal and Installation , Gen 2


Gen 2 Windscreen Removal and Replacement
The windscreen does not normally need to be removed for any type of routine maintenance. The only reason you are likely to need to remove it is if it needs to be changed. Changing to an aftermarket windscreen is one of the more common mods.

Since I have the benefit of owning 4 aftermarket windscreens I will share my opinion on the brands I have used.

Yana Shiki is horrible. I own one for each of my bikes and both are made of a flat sheet of clear plastic that has been partially bent into shape (probably with heat) to fit the fairing. They need to be flexed a lot to fit which causes them to have gaps. The main problem is that Yana Shikis do not have the necessary recess along the edge to fit flush to the fairing. For this reason, I do not think Yana Shiki windscreens can even be fitted to a Hayabusa unless the upper meter panel that is designed to fit closely with the windscreen is left off the bike. Yana Shikis are cheap in price and they have pleasing color (IMO). They are good for appearance but only then from a distance where their crappy fit is not easily detected. The Yana Shiki OEM replacement windscreen I have for my 14 actually weighs more than the OEM windscreen.

Zero gravity is a nice windscreen. It fits well and it is low in weight. Everything you want it to be. Careful if you do tank mount video or need to look through the windscreen. The dark smoke colored Zero Gravity screen is very dark. Looks almost solid black in low light.

Puig is probably the superior brand of windscreen. I own a Puig double bubble for my ZX-14 and it is only 1 ounce heavier than the OEM windscreen. Like Zero gravity, Puig is molded to the proper shape so that it does not need to depend on bending and tension to fit the fairing. Like the Zero gravity, it has a stepped down surface all around the edge to seat perfectly with the inside of the fairing the way the OEM windscreen is designed to fit.

3mm hex tool
8mm open end wrench
silicone lube


Do First: Remove the Upper and Lower Combination Meter Panels from the dash. See steps 2-7,

1. Remove the windscreen bolt on each side using a 3mm hex tool.

The windscreen bolt has a small plastic washer that comes off with the screw. Be careful not to loose it.

2. Press on the inside of the fairing to remove the well nut.

3. Remove the rear view mirrors using an 8mm open end wrench (See This allows the upper fairing to flex so that the windscreen will pull free from it safely.

I have mirror caps which are removed in a similar fashion as the mirrors.

4. Remove the windscreen by pulling back on the top edge. It will probably stick so keep steady tension on it and it will come out.
I find it helps to pull alternately left then right to free the windscreen from the fairing.

5. Place the front tab of the windscreen into the center front above the dash piece on
the top fairing.

6. Flex the windscreen inward a bit and press it forward into the groove between the inner fairing dashboard piece and the Body Cowling fairing.

There is a groove between the Body Cowling fairing and the inner fairing dashboard extension. The edge of the windscreen needs to be carefully fitted into this groove. The top corner of the outer fairing can be flexed out a bit to help start the windscreen edge into it.

7. Align the holes of the fairing, windscreen and inner fairing. Lube the well nut with
silicone lube and press it through.
It may help to leave the screw loosely threaded in to press the well nut back in place. Also, wiggling the windscreen helps the well nut find its way back in.

Install the rear view mirrors (see

8. Secure the windscreen into the fairing by threading the windscreen screw with plastic washer into the well nut. Gently snug the screw with a 3mm hex tool.
DO NOT USE LOCK TIGHT ON A WELL NUT. Locktight could cause the well nut to grip the screw and spin when the screw needs to be removed again. USE ONLY A GENTLE AMOUNT OF TORQUE. Over-tightening can cause the well nut to expand to far and split. finger tight is all you need. The expanded rubber keeps the tension on the screw and also holds the well from coming out.

Weight Reduction

OEM windscreen, 1 lb, 1.40 oz

Zero Gravity OEM Replacement, 13.80 oz

Net weight reduction of 3.6 oz

Yana Shiki is an ounce lighter but may be mostly due to the edge which seems to have been trimmed down to make its fitment less problematic. I don't recommend buying a Yana Shiki windscreen if ou need a proper fitting windscreen
Nice write up! I actually swapped back to stock. Puig started to crack on one side most likely due to me cranking the bolt too tight. Personally, I was never really sold on the looks of the double bubble to begin with.
I read a thread about aftermarket windscreens and cracking was one problem that was occasionally mentioned.

I agree with your opinion about DB screens. They look massive compared to OEM size screens. You can't tell until you put one on but it has a profound effect on the appearance of the bike. Zero Gravity even extended there range of products to include two models that are even bigger than DB.

World Class Windscreens - Zero Gravity
Who needs to remove the mirrors? I took the screens off of my 07 and my new 13 without doing that. They rattled so I put felt tape around the edges and reinstalled.
I see that many people complain on cracks and not fitting properly the aftermarket screens.
So I will just remove the stock and smoke it with plasti dip smoke and put it back in.
Interesting thread. Im having a problem refitting my gen1 double bubble screen. Problem is with the well nut. I have bought new OEM well nuts and have pushed them into the fairing and screen but when I try to tighten the well nut it expands between the screen and the fairing and not behind the screen. Ideas anyone..?