What type of oil for 08 Busa

[piratediverjefff]

Doing my first oil change for the 08 Busa.
Basically everything is stock.
Looking into using synthetic. Any specific type?

Running a "motorcycle specific" full synthetic oil is probably one of the best things you can do for your bike,and the sooner the better(many new performance oriented cars now come straight from the factory with a full synthetic oil,and Brock has been known to break in brand new motors[especially stroker motors]on the dyno using full synthetic oil).I had 22,000 miles on my turbo bike using Motul 300V 10W40 and the clutch never slipped the least bit,and you'll probably also immediately notice smoother shifting,etc.If builders/tuners/racers like Steve Knecum(Knecum Performance Engines),Johnnycheese,Brock Davidson,Moto GP teams,etc. all swear by full synthetic oil you can rest assured it's the right way to go.

 

[piratediverjefff]

Just ordered 4 qts. of Joe Gibbs MX1 to try out on my next oil change,the higher level of zinc is a plus.

Joe Gibbs Driven MX1 - Wet Clutch Racing Oil

 

[MEBusa]

LOL at some of the throw off answers...

Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic (Walmart) & K&N Filter (Amazon.com) here.

 

[2012busa]

I use Amsoil motorcycle 10w40. Cost around the same as other synthetic oils.

 

[GSrider]

Po Boy, 10W-40 Suzuki Dino

Same here.

 

[squale147]

Well I gotta say that I am only using "Conventional" Oil for my busa and not straying from it, hey it's a steet bike and if it were a track bike that I worked on constantly then I would use Royal Purple.

Why conventional, because it is all about the clutch folks, since the transmission and engine all use the same lube, the clutch is the weakest link in a sense. A good example is if you bought new clutch plates you are supposed to soak them in conventional petroleum oil overnight; However if you soak them synthetic, you can just throw them away - they are now ruined. Synthetic is too slippery for the clutch and if you do go with it, expect to replace your clutch plates every 10,000 miles or so. Stick with conventional oil and your plates will last and last.
A good dyno tuned bike with the right parts and good riding skills will more than make up for any gains you get from a synthetic. My dealership mechanic also suggested sticking with synthetic, he's been working on bikes his whole life.
Oh and replace your oil & filter every 2,000 miles - period!!

:hmmm:

 

[In10SS]

Lots of different things going on in there. Full syn has some superior properties in regards to heat, so turbo and air cooled engines may benefit. When same oil is used for gearbox and wet clutch, shear and contamination become the biggest issues in my opinion. Although syn can resist the shear breakdown from meshing gears a little longer, you may not be doing the engine any favors if the oil is contaminated with clutch material. One thing gleaned from all those oil test reports is that viscosity can be compromised is as little as 1300 to 1500 miles. Someone above said change oil every 2K. I agree with that and it is a little easier to drain out the cheap stuff than the high dollar synthetic. I've pushed synethic oil changes to 3k or even 3.5k and blackstone said it was nasty. I use conventional and change every 2K. In my cars I do use synthetic with 5k intervals and it works well.

 

[bigjack7679]

My current fill is Amsoil 15w40HDEO. I have used Amsoil 10w40 mc oil as well.

AMSOIL SAE 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil

 

[bigjack7679]

Well I gotta say that I am only using "Conventional" Oil for my busa and not straying from it, hey it's a steet bike and if it were a track bike that I worked on constantly then I would use Royal Purple.

Why conventional, because it is all about the clutch folks, since the transmission and engine all use the same lube, the clutch is the weakest link in a sense. A good example is if you bought new clutch plates you are supposed to soak them in conventional petroleum oil overnight; However if you soak them synthetic, you can just throw them away - they are now ruined. Synthetic is too slippery for the clutch and if you do go with it, expect to replace your clutch plates every 10,000 miles or so. Stick with conventional oil and your plates will last and last.
A good dyno tuned bike with the right parts and good riding skills will more than make up for any gains you get from a synthetic. My dealership mechanic also suggested sticking with synthetic, he's been working on bikes his whole life.
Oh and replace your oil & filter every 2,000 miles - period!!

All of this is strictly your opinions but far from the truth. Friction modifiers determine if oil is good for a wet clutch application. Not dino / synthetics . Dino oils do very well in motorcycles. depending on your goals, Synthetics can help extend drain intervals etc.

 

[bigjack7679]

Hey I guess it may not really matter but one thang is for certain, put some kind of damn oil in it. My friend that runs a motorcycle performance shop has had a few customer that brought their bikes in because of an engine seizure. Turns out they were about out of oil and black and syrupiee. yikes, hello get a clue.....

Now you are talking

 

[Mythos]

I have 08 too. Has 5700 miles and I am still on dino oil. I'm staying away from synthetic until about 7k miles just to be positive the motor is totally worn in.

I've already asked tis ? on this forum and very few were all that concerned about the tendancy for synthetic to leak or be too slippery. Many wen't to synthetic very early and some said they went to synthetic right away. For myself, I have not been all that impressed with synthetic oil I have tried. Repsol 4T race oil was very smooth for 500 miles then it was like normal oil. Cost about $80 for that oil change and really not worth it IMO. I use Rotella synthetic in my ZX-14 on a regular basis. I can't tell it is a lot different than conventional motorcycle oil. Costs about the same and theoretically it should lube better and retain viscosity so I use it and change every 2,500 miles as I would with a conventional oil.