what should i upgrade?

Quiksilver

Quiksilver

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Hello everyone. I have a 2002 stage one hayabusa turbo. I have 370cc s2000 injectors,rising rate fmu. What are some small upgrades that could be done? I've heard a roller timing chain or adjustable timing chain and manual adjuster are a good place to start. Ive heard stock internals are good to around 300hp? The bike was dynoed and made 278 hp so I'm close to the limit. should I intercool and up the boost or get rods and turbo pistons? I'm thinking the latter. Has anyone had either done and a price. Still new to turbo bikes and all help is greatly appreciated.
 
Not a turbo guy but if I had a bike that was boosted pushing that much HP I would make Damn sure my engine is bullet proof :whistle:
 
Rods, pistons, studs, valve springs; oil pump gear, clutch mod, good clutch springs. Whoever suggested a roller chain and manual adjuster as a "good start" is someone you should not consult. At 278 rwhp, you are indeed close to the limit on two counts: pump fuel and rods. Your rods will exit the motor and ventilate your cases at around 380 rwhp, so you would obviously want to have some sort of margin there. I would not suggest taking stock rods over 325, and would not recommend drag racing or hard launching a turbo bike with stock rods at that level. Reliability and longevity require a good foundation, since the proclivity of most turbo owners is to turn the boost up at a later date. Going over 8 pounds of boost on pump fuel is not wise; you can run a water/methanol injection setup and run 13-15 pounds of boost on pump, or you can just put race fuel in, like C16 and turn it up. Definately upgrade your internals.
 
Thanks for gracing us with your motorcycle knowledge Frank. Lol but seriously thanks for the information. I will do the oil pump gear and clutch mod first. As far as clutch springs are you saying to get higher tension springs to stop slippage? The previous owner said the clutch springs were upgraded. The clutch is pretty hard to pull in so I think he's right. I do notrace the bike or go over 6k rpm because I'm close to limit. I am looking into getting carillo h beam rods and im not sure what pistons I should get. My horsepower goal for now is 400hp, do you think it would that be possible with the parts you suggested? I have a Garrett .48ar stage III 60 trim. What brand and compression ratio and which rods would you suggest? Do you sell a water injection kit,rods, and pistons? I've done a good bit of reading but Id rather ask a professionel like yourself. Thanks again frank
 
You would be fine with wossner rods and pistons for that power range and more. I believe Frank is running them in his 600? hp busa.
 
Twozerozerotwo said:
Thanks for gracing us with your motorcycle knowledge Frank. Lol but seriously thanks for the information. I will do the oil pump gear and clutch mod first. As far as clutch springs are you saying to get higher tension springs to stop slippage? The previous owner said the clutch springs were upgraded. The clutch is pretty hard to pull in so I think he's right. I do notrace the bike or go over 6k rpm because I'm close to limit. I am looking into getting carillo h beam rods and im not sure what pistons I should get. My horsepower goal for now is 400hp, do you think it would that be possible with the parts you suggested? I have a Garrett .48ar stage III 60 trim. What brand and compression ratio and which rods would you suggest? Do you sell a water injection kit,rods, and pistons? I've done a good bit of reading but Id rather ask a professionel like yourself. Thanks again frank
Click to expand...

2002: The Wossner rods and turbo pistons (with .080" spacer plate) are what I run in both my pro street and street Ultra. Both bikes make 600 rwhp, and my street Ultra has over 10K miles on it. If your goal is 400 rwhp, seriously consider the ARP cylinder studs over the APEs, which are less expensive. Whatever clutch springs you have, run a slave support on the left side of the motor. The first time you get into boost you will know right away if those springs are adequate - if the lever right now is harder to pull in than stock, you are on the right track. The clutch springs I would recommend for a 400 hp build are only about $39, anyway. We keep the RCC water injection kits in stock, complete with a nice aluminum tank, and are more than happy to help you along with your build, tune and miles down the road. Wossner pistons, rods, spacer plates, studs, Cometic gaskets, oem gaskets, fan relay relocation tees, etc., etc. - all in stock at all times at POWERHOUSE. And although we build and work on most anything, we all ride turbo Busas . . .:cheerleader:
 
above 300hp you should look for better engine management too, something simple like the microtech and secondary injectors , and put your primarys back to std with a 1:1 reg will give you great streetability and big hp potential
or bigger primarys and boost referenced management like a pcv and hub or will get the job done
 
Why not do the obvious thing and upgrade your windscreen? JK, what about Water/Methanol?
 
Sounds good Frank now that I have an idea of what to upgrade I will get the cash together and get in touch with you when I'm ready to order. I would rather bring to you to get built but I live in Louisiana which is too far for me to travel. I figure I will do some of the more affordable upgrades as you said, and water injection. Since I don't run the bike hard yet I think ill be ok untill I get the motor built. I will get brakes after the wind screen lol. I don't go fast enough to max out the stockers. Once I get the go ill get the woooaaahhhh!!!!!
 
Ran a spacer and studed motor motor for years at 14psi. Took it out for my race engine. Then sold the race engine, and put the spacer motor back it. Full timing, 12.0 afr and pump fuel with an ultra plenum. Let it eat.

Although I wouldn't suggest that to anyone, really gotta keep an eye on it specially with fluctuating fuel quality.
 
Twozerozerotwo said:
Sounds good Frank now that I have an idea of what to upgrade I will get the cash together and get in touch with you when I'm ready to order. I would rather bring to you to get built but I live in Louisiana which is too far for me to travel. I figure I will do some of the more affordable upgrades as you said, and water injection. Since I don't run the bike hard yet I think ill be ok untill I get the motor built. I will get brakes after the wind screen lol. I don't go fast enough to max out the stockers. Once I get the go ill get the woooaaahhhh!!!!!
Click to expand...

I'm over in Houston... :laugh:
 
I wont be going over 300 hp anytime soon but before i do I will have a microtech or something similiar. I'm not sure if the rising rate regulator i have or any for that matter would be sufficient. I had the same idea as you murder, how much was the ultra plenum set up with heat exchanger pump etc? I thought i seen a price of 3500 or something like that. i figured if it was that much i might as well put the parts Frank recommended with water injection and keep the boost low and run race fuel if i do go up on boost. that is until i could afford the ultra plenum. If im ever in houston ill definately hit you up :)
 
Twozerozerotwo said:
I wont be going over 300 hp anytime soon but before i do I will have a microtech or something similiar. I'm not sure if the rising rate regulator i have or any for that matter would be sufficient. I had the same idea as you murder, how much was the ultra plenum set up with heat exchanger pump etc? I thought i seen a price of 3500 or something like that. i figured if it was that much i might as well put the parts Frank recommended with water injection and keep the boost low and run race fuel if i do go up on boost. that is until i could afford the ultra plenum. If im ever in houston ill definately hit you up :)
Click to expand...

You are correct, by the time you get done with the heat exchanger, water pump, hoses/fittings, etc, you will be into it for 4 thousand. However, with this setup you can run 18 pounds of boost on pump fuel - for most, that would equate to 350-375 rear wheel on 93 octane, with NO TIMING PULLED. I run mine at 20 pounds on pump, and I am making over 400. There is a reason why the Ultra kits are priced the way they are. Regardless of whatever future plans you have, it is imperative that you build the bottom end to withstand - reliably - whatever you are throwing at it. For now, your rising rate regulator and a water/methanol injection setup will get you to 300 - which is a great hp number for any daily driven street bike . . .:laugh:
 
Wow that's a lot of power on pump! I definately want to get one, everyone says rcc is top notch, I don't doubt that for a second. I have a few more questions Frank, how often does the water tank need to be refilled under normal driving conditions? I am also looking in getting afr/failsafe gauge AEM 30-4900 AEM Digital Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) Gauge do you recommend another way of fail safe and boost control not too sure how this works on extrenal gates and do you sell those parts also? Thanks again for helping me out.
 
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