Valve chatter after build?

[JRivera2002]

So I got my busa back together after completely building the motor from the floor up...now my valves chatter like crazy...a lot louder than I remember, will the 65lbs valve springs cause this? Anyone else here notice the same thing? I've only put 70 break in miles on it so far and the bike runs great up to 6000 rpm and only letting it see about 2lbs of boost thus far.

Heres some pics of the busa now

[POWERHOUSE]

Sounds like your manual cam chain tensioner backed out or was not adjusted properly from jump. Either that, or you got too much clearance on the valve, or you put turbo cams in it instead of stock cams. There are a lot of others reasons for valve chatter like coil bind, improper retainer clearance, loose or worn guides, etc., etc. I wouldn't say the 65 pounds springs are the cause. And I wouldn't break it in anymore either or boost it until you determine the source of the noise. Did you put in different cams?

[2wicked]

Where are you taking the oil feed for the oil cooler? Just curious if it is from the original oil cooler port on the engine, if so you are starving the engine for oil by returning it to the clutch cover, the oil should be returned back to the original oil cooler return port.

Richard

[PaulCav]

I agree with Powerhouse's evaluation of what is going on. Do not ride the bike until you check the valve clearances at the very minimum.

[dadofthree]

Where are you taking the oil feed for the oil cooler? Just curious if it is from the original oil cooler port on the engine, if so you are starving the engine for oil by returning it to the clutch cover, the oil should be returned back to the original oil cooler return port.

Richard

Caught my eye too

[JRivera2002]

The oil feed for the original cooler just returns to the stock oil pan, with the 2" oil pan this return does not exist anymore, plus it was just originaly dumped back into the oil pan so I dont see how I'm starving the engine of oil. I also have a high pressure oil valve and oil pump gear pushing over 100psi at about 6000 rpm. I'm also using stock cams.

[2wicked]

The oil feed for the original cooler just returns to the stock oil pan, with the 2" oil pan this return does not exist anymore, plus it was just originaly dumped back into the oil pan so I dont see how I'm starving the engine of oil. I also have a high pressure oil valve and oil pump gear pushing over 100psi at about 6000 rpm. I'm also using stock cams.

You are definitely starving the engine for oil, although the other fitting connects to the pan, it is not returning the oil into the pan, the fitting on the pan connects to the main oil gallery, and that oil is what supplies oil to your engine, right now you are by passing the main galleries, and dumping the volume of oil into the clutch cover, I would bet your oil pressure and volume is way down,

Richard

[JRivera2002]

So with the original set up...from SRP... the old oil feed from the original cooler fed my turbo and then returned to the oil pan, not the galley which is what I am essentially doing with the heat exchanger. The only thing that I'm doing differently is where I'm feeding the turbo from now. I also added an oil pressure guage at the original oil pressure sensor and it reads upwards of 100 plus psi when the bike is around 6k. These are just my observations and I really appreciate all the help on this website.

[2wicked]

So with the original set up...from SRP... the old oil feed from the original cooler fed my turbo and then returned to the oil pan, not the galley which is what I am essentially doing with the heat exchanger. The only thing that I'm doing differently is where I'm feeding the turbo from now. I also added an oil pressure guage at the original oil pressure sensor and it reads upwards of 100 plus psi when the bike is around 6k. These are just my observations and I really appreciate all the help on this website.

Thats right, but the volume of oil you run through a -3 line feeding the turbo vs the large lines running to the oil cooler and then dumping into the clutch cover is a huge difference. You are more then welcome to run your oil lines as you see fit, but I would advise against it.

Richard

[JRivera2002]

Thanks for the advice! I'll look into it when I get home in a month.

[JRivera2002]

Could I simply add a restrictor into the oil cooler line?

[POWERHOUSE]

Could I simply add a restrictor into the oil cooler line?

No, you cannot. When you get a chance, take a look at the oiling diagram in the factory service manual. You are effectively diverting oil from the oil pump to your cooler - even before it gets to the oil filter, and then on its way to the main gallery and sub galleries, which lubricate the bearings and top end. On top of that, the oil from your oil cooler that is being dumped into the clutch cover is not even filtered. The return from the stock oil cooler does not just feed into the pan, like you are thinking. It feeds back into the main galley that feeds oil to the oil filter.

Rich - that was a good call right there, you and D03 deserve credit for spotting that so quick. Like I said previously, do not run that motor any more! Straighten it out before you do damage . . .

[JRivera2002]

I understand that the stock pan feeds back to the main galley...but I have a 2" low profile pan, there is no fitting or anything for a return. But I'll take a look at the diagram and see what you are talking about.