new cam installed, lots of valve chatter

[sully]

Finally got my brock exhaust cam installed and had the factory intake cam degreed in at the same time. Now the bike has what i would call excessive valve chatter. It has a loud ticking sound and a nasty lull in power between 2k and 3k on the tack. The loss low end power makes the bike completely fall on its face off the line and almost stall out even with over half throttle and after about 3200 on the tack it will start to scream and even try to pull a power wheelie with a 9" over arm. I can't figuire out what is wrong and the tech that installed everything said that it is just the lope of the bigger cam. I know it is running very rich but even with a bad map it should not give me as much trouble as it is right now. Any help would be great.

Thanks


The installer also said that the cam chain tensioner needs to be traded out with a manual version, Brocks guys said it was not needed. Any opinions?

[mountainmotor]

The lope is most likely from being way rich . So is your dead spot . Remap after finding and fixing the noise .

A stock cam chain tensioner is fine to use but could be too much slack in chain causing noise . Buying a adjustable tensioner would be a good way to rule out stock tensioner troubles . Also exhaust leak at head and of course one or more valves with too much clearance .Worse case could be a damaged cam shim bucket .

It's difficult to hear it on the net .

Does the noise lessen as the motor get warmer and what lobe center angles did he degree both cams in at ?

[sully]

The shop with my bike claims to have fixed the ticking sound, they blamed it on a "loose" cam chain tensioner (should i still be worried about possible long term damage?).  The bike idles when it is cold now and when it warms up they said it won't stay running.  The map has been fixed, they loaded brocks map he sent with the cam until we can get it on a dyno for a custom one.

thanks again
B



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[mountainmotor]

Ok , you told me they fixed the noise with a tensioner or tightened yours . Someone got lucky when they let that motor out of the shop making noise . You decide who it was , the shop or you .

Now your saying it has yet another problem .

Tell them to recheck every electrical plug , fitting or hose they just had off . This new problem is one created by them .

It will run with the brock map

[sully]

thanks for the help! I didn't want any long term issues but if it was going to need a rebuild then i would have happily let them pay for it.

[mountainmotor]

Shops that rephase cams then have trouble getting the engine to run right for whatever reason"s" peaks my curiosity .

Somehow bring the cams and degreeing up in conversation and ask them if they degreed the intake cam or exhaust cam in first .... tell me what they say

[sully]

The shop is closed for the day but i did find out that thier tech didn't even do the install, they took it over to a local suzuki dealership and had that service department manager do it as a side job...

[MoosesBusa]

Wow, They didn't even have the courtesy to use any lubricants!?! That's gonna sting 4 a while

[sully]

got it back today and just like they said the loud ticking sound is gone and the nasty lull in power between 2 and 3k on the tack is almost gone. They said that the plugs were all fouled and the sensor in the airbox was faulty (all were replaced). It still idles at 2K and when i asked about it they said it was to keep it running from the cam. It seems to be running rich still and pops and backfires when it climes in RPM around 7000 to 9000 with a slight hessitation. This is getting rediculous, i just want the bike to be right and not have to hurt anyone in the process...

I'm going to check the map when i get home tonight and reload the map that brock sent over to see if they started to mess with it.

[MoFoTShirts]

From the sounds of it, that's the last time you need to deal with that shop.

[sully]

Just to be sure everything is ok i decided to take it a suzuki house in dallas that has a dyno to check the map and make sure they felt the bike was running well enough to ride. The tech ran the motor for a minute and listened to everything and came to the conclusion that it would prob be safe to run it on the dyno to check the map and see what is wrong. The map brock sends out was almost dead on, if anything it was a little on the lean side. The bike pumped out a whopping 150.3 hp (about 14HP short of what it was before the cam install). Something is wrong! It has a momentary drop in power in the higher RPMs (10hp drop) but the A/F is ok. They are going to pop the valve cover off and check the cam and do a compression and leak down test (?), i'll post the results later...

anyone have any ideas as to what would cause such a loss of power?

[frisbee]

From the sounds of it, that's the last time you need to deal with that shop.

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