Tuning when adding exhaust?

[Mr Brown]

what's a harley?

The most efficient way to turn gasoline into noise without the annoyance of horsepower....

 

[faseljd]

Well I am the one to have had Franks PCV dyno tune and overall going over of my turbo B king, not so good, ran like crap when I got it, practically un-rideable, chugged and sputtered at all different RPM's and throttle positions. I put no time restraint or dollar restraint on him to fix my King, I only asked that anything it needed it got to make it run great . Mostly because I was half way across the country and shipment was 1K. My bike is at Boosted now for fixin, will evaluate his ECU tune when it's done and delivered to me.

 

[ottafish]

As I understand it, the PC can only add fuel. If the ECU tells the injector to add X amount of fuel, the PC can alter those directions to the injector with X+ fuel or pass the direction through to the injector unchanged (X + 0). However the PC's simplicity may be it's magic. It is proven reliable, relatively cost efficient, allows access by many more tuners, and yank it off and the bike runs in factory spec immediately with no additional cost (like stripping mods and returning to OEM to sell the bike).

The premise of the PC product is that manufacturers have been delivering bikes with more and more lean fueling. Some bikes are almost unrideable at lower RPMs. This is why even with the limited capabilities of the PC unit, it's a big part of making the bike run at it's best. This also why you should have your bike dyno tuned even if you are keeping it stock - you'll be surprised at the rideability improvements. Your next question will be why do manufacturers put chit like this on the market and the answer is emissions restrictions.

A full exhaust and a "race" filter are very basic engine mods that usually can't net much more than 10-15 hp at best. The PC (with a dyno tune) can balance the fueling for this as most OEM ECU's can't make this much of an adjustment automatically. An ECU flash can do everything a PC can do an much, much more - provided you have a reliable tuner to hack the ECU. Good thing is you don't need any additional parts to do it (other than the harness). Bad news is that flashing an ECU is in effect absolute power, so you better trust the tuner completely.

PS: the skillset needed to dyno tune a Busa with the PC is general, meaning it works for most modern bikes. The skillset needed to flash the ECU is bike specific, and I wouldn't trust it to anyone but a Busa specialist. Unfortunately that means as the bike gets older and older the flashers out there will move on to newer bikes with more demand. Just the way it works.

Thank you. Your explanation was exactly what I thought was going on, but wasn't completely agreeing with myself

 

[Bumblebee]

The most efficient way to turn gasoline into noise without the annoyance of horsepower....

A buddy of mine said Harley bikes are the best way to turn fossil fuel into noise...

 

[Amode]

Guys
First of all this is my opinion tuning with the ecu is the best. You have to cha nge the inj. pulse, sec. throttle body openings, Timing and fuel. You have to change every thing to make it work. A dyno does not do that for you. And I run a 18/40 combo. I have and still use the first unit smith made, And have a complete unit from woolich still in a box. The old smith unit is all you need. All you need is how to read the numbers. I have six gears and want it to run the best at all speeds.

 

[ottafish]

Guys
First of all this is my opinion tuning with the ecu is the best. You have to cha nge the inj. pulse, sec. throttle body openings, Timing and fuel. You have to change every thing to make it work. A dyno does not do that for you. And I run a 18/40 combo. I have and still use the first unit smith made, And have a complete unit from woolich still in a box. The old smith unit is all you need. All you need is how to read the numbers. I have six gears and want it to run the best at all speeds.

I'd love get a smith harness, but with our dollar tanking, it's ridiculously expensive now

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

You know damn well the King's issue is not air fuel, and that bike was not idling at 11 anything. You can twist the facts and take all the pictures you want. Making that bike correct is all I would like to see, hope you find the problem, and I am sure when you do you will make up some bullshit, because that is how you are. And I am also sure you will get it on your dyno and make 500 horse at 3 pounds of boost and then add methanol and make 600 horse.

The bike arrived, and I started it. Noticed right away how low the idle was, and that the exhaust smelled a bit on the fat side. Right away I figured that studdering probably was probably a fat spot in the map. So I put my wideband and fuel pressure gauge on it along with a Gopro and took it for a ride. The shuttering was caused by a severely lean spot. At that spot the bike is making 2-3psi before the fuel pressure starts to increase. I verified that by hooking the boot gauge in line with the fmu signal as can be seen here.

Being an old style metal shim fmu I’m thinking that the shims were stressed and bent/damaged from the high boost of 12psi. That’s the only thing I can think of that makes sense on a build that doesn’t really have many miles on it for how old it is.

The gauge pegging 120+ psi of fuel pressure and 10.6 boosted afr wasnt doing any favors either.

Other things I noticed on first start up was a ratteling sound from around the dump area. Almost like the turbine was hitting the housing. Later I inspected the turbo and found oil in the charge pipes and pretty excessive shaft play. While pulling the header off to send the center section in for a rebuild I also found the header was cracked at one of the welds almost all the way around. Turbos direct called me after receiving the turbo and said the turbine wheel needed to be replaced as the edges of the fins were damaged from rubbing the housing.

Nothing here is made up, or twisted. I simply went through the bike and reported to Jack my findings as I found them.

The bike is being updated by trashing the fmu, and pc5 and getting a 3 bar map with 1:1 regulator to be tuned through the ecu, along with ecu based boost control. I’m updating the meth kit to use a AEM progressive controller instead of the old injector signal driven unit that was on it. Lastly I’ll be cleaning up and fixing some wiring, and a fresh set of sprockets and new chain... to replace the OEM chain that’s still on a 300+hp bike.

 

[Quiksilver]

...

 

[fallenarch]

so for those of us struggling to pick up what you're putting down BCP, is the cracked header pipe related to the turbo blade damage? Would the bike run ok with this damage and the problems the owner noted due mainly to fueling?