I really is not that bad. I could do it in a few hours now that I have it all down. Just take your time and follow the directions and you are good to go. If you are thinking about doing it, then you should
True Cruise Control - Gen II Style
- Thread starter Sous
- Start date
I really is not that bad. I could do it in a few hours now that I have it all down. Just take your time and follow the directions and you are good to go. If you are thinking about doing it, then you should
OK,
I get the idiot award and I worked pretty hard for it this time dangit :1zhelp:
My cruise stopped working for some reason so I stripped the back end off to take a look. One of the vacuum lines came off because it was twisted around the rear cowl. Got it all fixed and zip-tied in place. Put the rear cowl back on. Screwed on the rear grab bar, then popped on the hump cover. All the time I'm thinking this is too easy....
Then it hit me what I forgot - I forgot to attach the cable to the lock
So now I can't get the hump off and can't get into the cowl. Anyone know how to break into the hump cover??
I get the idiot award and I worked pretty hard for it this time dangit :1zhelp:
My cruise stopped working for some reason so I stripped the back end off to take a look. One of the vacuum lines came off because it was twisted around the rear cowl. Got it all fixed and zip-tied in place. Put the rear cowl back on. Screwed on the rear grab bar, then popped on the hump cover. All the time I'm thinking this is too easy....
Then it hit me what I forgot - I forgot to attach the cable to the lock
So now I can't get the hump off and can't get into the cowl. Anyone know how to break into the hump cover??
OK,
I get the idiot award and I worked pretty hard for it this time dangit :1zhelp:
My cruise stopped working for some reason so I stripped the back end off to take a look. One of the vacuum lines came off because it was twisted around the rear cowl. Got it all fixed and zip-tied in place. Put the rear cowl back on. Screwed on the rear grab bar, then popped on the hump cover. All the time I'm thinking this is too easy....
Then it hit me what I forgot - I forgot to attach the cable to the lock
So now I can't get the hump off and can't get into the cowl. Anyone know how to break into the hump cover??
I know this post is almost 2 months old, but it seems to happen often(yes, I've done it too). Gen2's are much easier to open than gen1, it also seems the factory actually designed the gen2 for this problem.
Unbolt the driver seat and remove the 4 pushpins and the small 4" rectagular plastic piece in the center of the tail between the seats.
The gen2 latch faces the front of the bike(gen1 faces the rear).
You can look inside the trunk with a flashlight and see the arm that the cable attaches to. Use a long flatblade screwdriver and simply push the latch arm to the left(shifter side of bike). It'll pop open, done!
The reason I saw this is that I'm back re reading Sous's great DIY. Between this and the DayLong seat, these are two things I have to do very soon!
Hey Sous, great job! And thanks so much for costing me more money!
No worries man, and as for the money, you will save money once you install this. I don't care how good you are at maintaining speed, the CC is going to be better at it and more subtle in the changes. This was one of my best MPG mods in my goal of getting into the 60's for MPG.
I plan to ride my busa to Alaska and see some of my childhood places near Fairbanks in a couple of years. So, the modding will continue to make the fastest cruiser I can.
I plan to ride my busa to Alaska and see some of my childhood places near Fairbanks in a couple of years. So, the modding will continue to make the fastest cruiser I can.
Sorry, I missed this post for some reason. I live down near lake Hartwell on the GA side. I would not charge you anything to help you do it, but would be willing to help you install it. Although, I do not have a climate controlled garage, so you may want to wait until the fall if you are serious about installing it.
Nice! :thumbs: You must be a recruiter with 120 mile round trip everyday...
I am in tactical communications and stationed at GSU (geographically separated unit). My wife and I plan to retire at our current home, so when we were assigned here we looked for our retirement home. I plan to do the 120 mile round trip drive a few more years, and then retire from the military at 21 or 22 years total service. The home we bought is made of stone and brick, has a 3/4 acre pond, 2 streams and was an unbeatable deal. The drive is a pain in the ass at times, but every time I get back into the country where the home is, it is worth it.
I saw in the article you're using Redline brand stands. Just wanted to say thanks for your business!
Ian
Ian
Been getting a lot of questions about this mod, please feel free to ask if you have a question. I would rather you stay safe and get the job done right than to get frustrated with the job.
One quick note for those considering the job. There are four ways to cancel the cruise control being set, they are as follows.
1. Turn the set speed off by pressing the off button on the control panel
2. Tap the brake which in turn turns on the brake light cancelling the cruise setting
3. Accelerate at a very rapid pace after the cruise is set
4. Pull in the clutch while cruising which removes load from the engine and cancels the cruise setting
When testing the proper function of the cruise, you must do it in a real world setting. What I mean by that is that you cannot set the cruise if you have the rear wheel on a stand and in the air. The chain will go tight for a quick second while the cruise tries to maintain your desired speed. Although, since there is virtually no load on the engine you will be trying to test the cruise control operation and doing canceling method number 4 at the same time. So, you can see the chain get tight quickly, but then cruise will not maintain the speed while the bike is no the stand.
The way I tested my newly installed cruise was by leaving the side fairings off, putting the brake light and tail back on, but with only a few connectors to ensure it does not come off. I would take a 2 mile trip up the road getting up to about 45 MPH and try to set it. I had to do this about 6 times because the switch settings on the servo were not right for my application.
That was a year or so ago now and I use the cruise control every time I am on the bike.
One quick note for those considering the job. There are four ways to cancel the cruise control being set, they are as follows.
1. Turn the set speed off by pressing the off button on the control panel
2. Tap the brake which in turn turns on the brake light cancelling the cruise setting
3. Accelerate at a very rapid pace after the cruise is set
4. Pull in the clutch while cruising which removes load from the engine and cancels the cruise setting
When testing the proper function of the cruise, you must do it in a real world setting. What I mean by that is that you cannot set the cruise if you have the rear wheel on a stand and in the air. The chain will go tight for a quick second while the cruise tries to maintain your desired speed. Although, since there is virtually no load on the engine you will be trying to test the cruise control operation and doing canceling method number 4 at the same time. So, you can see the chain get tight quickly, but then cruise will not maintain the speed while the bike is no the stand.
The way I tested my newly installed cruise was by leaving the side fairings off, putting the brake light and tail back on, but with only a few connectors to ensure it does not come off. I would take a 2 mile trip up the road getting up to about 45 MPH and try to set it. I had to do this about 6 times because the switch settings on the servo were not right for my application.
That was a year or so ago now and I use the cruise control every time I am on the bike.
You bet Ian!
I bought the swivel rear stand years ago to use with my GSX-R 600. Using this stand enabled my wife to park her car in the garage without hitting my motorcycle on a daily basis. I would have to pull the bike in at an angle, then either lift the rear tire to bring it in line with the wall, or pray that she saw it was sticking out very near her car. I saw your swivel stand and said that was what I needed. Bought the stand and then was able to put it under the rear wheel and easily slide the bike from side to side keeping it safe and within inches of the wall.
I still use it today with my Hayabusa, even though I have more room at the new house. It is very nice to be able to turn the rear of the bike from side to side if I am testing clearance on the bars, or something else I am always working on.
Quality products from a quality builder.
Does anybody knows something about Index of / i want to be sure that it isn´t scammers, let me know please
Rick Ekstrom
Registered
Sous, where abouts do you live? I have a cabin just outside of Blairsville in the mountains. Didnt mean to hijack your thread. By the way, nice write up on the CC
Hello!
I've been reading through this thread several times and searched google for hours but I have one question which I can't get answer to. Why do you need the vacuum canister? Why can't you just route the vacuum hose straight between the air box and servo?
I will install cruise control later this year, probably in April or May and will post pics here!
Thanks for the great thread.
I've been reading through this thread several times and searched google for hours but I have one question which I can't get answer to. Why do you need the vacuum canister? Why can't you just route the vacuum hose straight between the air box and servo?
I will install cruise control later this year, probably in April or May and will post pics here!
Thanks for the great thread.
There is an electric alternative to the vacuum CC. I had the vacuum version and switched to the all electric. Not an expert but I would not want to mess with the engine vacuum system unless necessary. The extra vacuum tanks look big but in reality if the are mounted in signal light pods (gen 2) they take up no trunk space. Also the vacuum system is much lighter. Either works pretty well, no problems with either. The cons are I had a cut in a vacuum hose onceand the electric version took a long time too get settings dialed in for my tastes.
Found a new post which I thought would be worth sharing: http://rvbprecision.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-electronic-cruise-control.html
Yes, the new electric version is Rostra 250-1223. I think I will go for that even though it's a bit more expensive. I have already messed with my bike's vacuum system with the Scottoiler (love that btw).
Yes, the new electric version is Rostra 250-1223. I think I will go for that even though it's a bit more expensive. I have already messed with my bike's vacuum system with the Scottoiler (love that btw).
Lot's of write ups on the cruise but here is one that we did on twotonevert's bike and he went and did a nice how to on it..
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/electric-rostra-cruise-control.152744/
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/electric-rostra-cruise-control.152744/
Thanks again for all the hours you and Uncle Steve spent on that install and getting it dialed in. Works just as well now as the day it was installed.
Similar threads
