True Cruise Control - Gen II Style



Sous

Donating Member
Registered
I am in no way a mechanic or am saying that you will not have any problems with this install if/when you attempt it. I spent about 6 hours total doing my install on my Gen II Hayabusa, and the CC works very well and as advertised. Now, for the good part.
I did not splice into any wires on the factory harness except for the brake signal wire. There was no feasible way around this like there was with the other connections to the factory wiring. I also did not remove the tank, the air filter housing, or anything other than the body panels and the tail cowling.

SUPPLIES REQUIRED:
1. Schnitz Racing coil adapter - Tach Signal Adapter - Schnitz Electronics
2. 6’ vacuum hose - Get a inside diameter as close as you can to the Audiovox CC vacuum hose
3. Vacuum canister - Rostra Precision Controls ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROL VACUUM RESERVOIR - JCWhitney
4. Blue Locktite - Save money on replacing lost bolts
5. Wire loom - Standard black wire loom found at any auto parts store
6. Control panel mount - I used scrap metal from around the house, you will see what I fabricated later in this post
7. Zip ties - Make things nice and secure
8. Audiovox CCS-100 - Murphs' CCS100 Cruise Control
9. Five point relay with 87a pin - 12V SPDT 30 AMP AUTOMOTIVE RELAY | AllElectronics.com
10. Red and black 16 gauge wire - Wire required for relay install
11. 12v fuse - Installed in line with relay hot side
12. Solderless terminal connectors - Amazon.com: Neiko Solderless Wire Terminal & Connection Kit with Crimping/Wire-Stripping Tool - 175 Pieces: Home Improvement
13. Boost By Smith accessory adapter - Frankenstein Replacement Bolts


TOOLS REQUIRED:
1. All the normal tools you use to work on your bike
2. Dremmel is a must
3. Multi-meter (not a test light)


Now for the meat and potatoes of the install. Out of this entire install, I had the most trouble with removing the body panels than anything else. So, if you can remove the panels, you can install this kit.

Put the bike on a stand and remove the body panels. This will give you an even working surface and provide stability while you are working on the bike. Get your materials together and make sure you are not missing anything before you tear into the bike.

I created a bracket for the control panel to mount to the clutch side C-clamp. Once I fabricated the bracket, I painted it black. Then I mounted it to the top of the C-clamp with the bracket below.
P1020512.jpg

P1020519.jpg

P1020520.jpg


Route the wire from the control panel through the wire loom and bring it around under the instrument cluster and to the left side of the bike.
P1020521.jpg


Use this diagram to identify where the wires go from here on out.

Connect the gray wire from the control panel to accessory power and ground the black wire. I used a small screw terminal I got at Radio Shack to connect to Boost By Smith adapter. Then wired the gray and black of the CC control panel to accessory power and ground on the screw terminal. Insert the red, brown, green and yellow into the molex type connector supplied by Audivox. Then put all of that aside.
P1020558.jpg


Now install the pull arm to the throttle linkage. Picture below is of the linkage before the install.
P1020522.jpg
 

Sous

Donating Member
Registered
Use a bracket out of the box and modify it to be similar to the one below. I cut down the length and then rounded the edges so that the eye hole for the chain would swivel nicely. You will also have to give it a bit of a S-curve to fit on the linkage tightly. I installed the bracket at a position of about 7 o’clock when the throttle is closed.
P1020524.jpg

P1020523.jpg

P1020526.jpg


Two pictures of the bracket and chain installed on the linkage. Be sure to use locktite on the nut when putting it back on.
P1020528.jpg

P1020529.jpg


Now install the bracket that holds the end of the servo cable to a bolt that is on the inside of the frame on the riders left as seen in the pictures. Do not install the cable yet though. First picture is of the bolt, second is the bracket being held securely in place by the bolt. (I know the cable is on there now, just disregard that part and leave the cable off for now.)
P1020544.jpg

P1020545.jpg


Go around to the right side of the bike and look for cylinder number 1 coil wires. They will be right under the air box and behind the PAIR hose. You can see them in the picture below.
P1020551.jpg


Remove the PAIR hose and unplug the coil plug. It is a tight fit, but is doable if you are patient and don’t force the plug. Connect the adapter from Schnitz Racing and route the black wire behind the throttle bodies to the left side of the bike as seen below.
P1020553.jpg

P1020554.jpg
 

Sous

Donating Member
Registered
OK, now we are done with the wiring for the coil and the control panel. At this point I was feeling very confident as I was taking short cuts that others had not thought of and the project was half way done. Now remove the left side turn signal pod from the tail cowl as seen below.
P1020536.jpg


You are going to have to do some Dremmel trimming to the tail cowl right where the pod meets up. Be careful not to go too high or low and only trim up the edges that protrude down and up into the pod. I have included a picture below, but it is hard to make out unless you are looking at your pieces too.
P1020538.jpg


Do not worry as you cannot see any of this from the outside once the tail is back together.

Now, fit the servo to the tail of the bike on the riders right side. I modified the bracket and trimmed down the edges of the servo to make the fit better in the pod/tail. As with the tail, be careful and take your time and check, recheck and recheck again to ensure a good fit in the tail.
P1020532.jpg

P1020533.jpg


Two pictures of the servo connected to the sub-frame with the tail off.
P1020537.jpg

P1020543.jpg


Now two pictures of the servo connected to the sub-frame with the tail on, but the pod still off. See how the servo being grinded down makes it move into the sub-frame by about ¾ inch.
P1020541.jpg

P1020542.jpg


Now remove the tail and put the pod back on and check for a clean fit. It will be tight, but it will fit. Just make sure that you can line up your screw and pop rivet holes enough to get the screws or rivets in.

Now to mount the vacuum reservoir. I installed mine on the right side of the bike in the same place as the servo. The one I had needed small modifications to the bracket, but did not require tail or pod modifications due to the size.
P1020572.jpg

P1020575.jpg
 

Sous

Donating Member
Registered
Run two vacuum hoses from the reservoir around the rear of the bike and over to the servo. Connect the AMP port to the servo and leave the MAN port dangling there under the servo.
P1020576.jpg


Grab the connector with all the wires that plugs into the servo and cut the black and gray wires that are spliced together.
P1020516.jpg


Open up the back of the servo and remove the black jumper and set the dips switches to OFF, except for number 7 to ON. Some other members have set 1, 4 and 7 to ON, but I did not find this worked very well for me. It set the minimum cruising RPM speed to 4000 RPM. With a 39 tooth sprocket in the rear, that means I am cooking down the interstate just looking for trouble. Connect the plug into the servo and close it up with the cap you just removed to get to the dip switches. Put some wire loom on the wires and start to route them toward the front.

Now we get to finishing up the job. Almost done! Route the wires from the servo, the servo cable and the hanging vacuum line toward the front of the bike. Drop off the black, purple, blue and red wires at the side of the battery. The green, yellow and brown wires go under the tank and toward the front. Once you route those wires to the front of the bike, push the green, yellow and brown wires into the molex style connector. Also push in the red wire with the inline fuse that changes to orange wire into the servo side of the molex connector. Connect the two molex connectors and wire up the red/orange wire to the same switched power source you used earlier in the front of the bike.
You can see in the picture how I dropped off the black, purple, blue and red wires at the battery while running the rest toward the front. You can also see where I stored the relay for the CC cancel signal from the brake light. Reference this picture later when I mention it.
P1020571.jpg


OK, so now you should have the vacuum reservoir, control panel, and servo installed. We need to get our brake light, relay, coil and power completed and then the job is done.

For the brake light, you are going to use the white wire with a black tracer on the left as seen in the picture below.
P1020560.jpg


Use the supplied red wire tap and your own red wire to tap into the white with black tracer for the brake signal.
P1020565.jpg


Now is a good time to get the relay situated. Make sure you have a relay with 87a, not two 87 terminals on it. The wiring is as follows.

30 - Purple wire from CC
87a – Ground to battery
87 - Constant 12v from battery
86 – Ground to battery
85- Brake light white wire with black tracer

Once you have the relay wired up, tuck it into the space next to the rider left thigh in the picture previously noted above.

Now to connect the ignition coil to the servo. Splice the black wire from the Schnitz Racing coil adapter to the blue wire from the servo. Do not cut the blue wire as it has a noise suppressor in it and will not work properly if you do. I also tucked the slack from the blue wire behind the relay next to the riders left thigh.

OK, nearly done! Now route the vacuum hose from the MAN port of the vacuum reservoir under the tank with the servo cable. Route the cable in a fashion so that the turning radius does not go under 4 inches. If you do, the cable may not operate properly and bind causing all kinds of problems. Connect the cable to the bracket you mounted to the bolt on the inside of the left frame earlier as seen in the picture below. I gave it a bit of an angle to keep the chain pulling as seamless as possible.
P1020545.jpg

P1020546.jpg

P1020547.jpg


When connecting the chain to the cable, you will have to remove a few links from the chain. This will depend on what angle you mounted the bracket at, and what angle you mounted the bracket on the throttle linkage. BE SURE THAT THERE IS SLACK WHEN THE THROTTLE IS COMPLETELY CLOSED! Once you have the cable mounted and the chain from the linkage connected, operate the throttle via the hand grip to ensure smooth operation. The chain will dangle down a bit when you open the throttle, just ensure it will not bind on anything. I used a bit of heat shrink on the chain connector to make the connection that much more secure, probably not needed though.

OK, now onto the vacuum line connection. Move back around to the right side of the bike and look toward the rear of the air box. There is a small vacuum tube that goes into a sensor on the bottom rear of the air box. The other end of this tube branches into 4 tubes which go to each throttle body. Disconnect the tube from the sensor on the air box. The picture indicated the tube to disconnect.
P1020552.jpg


Now finish routing the vacuum tube from the MAN port on the reservoir up to this spot and take a seat. Almost done, just one more connection and you can put her back together and go for a ride!

Cut a 3 inch piece of vacuum hose off the one you have just routed and resize the rest of it to make a nice fit up to where the sensor of the air box is at. You want to ensure you have enough slack for the tank to close down on it, so not too tight.
 

Sous

Donating Member
Registered
Use the supplied black T-connector for the vacuum hose and plug it into the 3 inch piece you just cut. Plug the other end of that 3 inch piece into the sensor of the air box. Now plug the factory and MAN port hoses into the other 2 ports of the T-connector.
P1020577.jpg

P1020578.jpg


That is it, your done! Button her up and go out for a test ride!

If you have questions or concerns, feel free to PM me or drop a response here and I will do my best to answer them. I have a 120 round trip commute to work and this mod is a great one to have for situations like that.
 

Sous

Donating Member
Registered
Thank you for the support. I have been sitting here for hours trying to get it right and this is what I came up with. Maybe one day it can be on the Gen II "sticky" list :)
 

omslaw

Michelle owns my Busa
Staff member
Administrator
Registered
Thank you for the support. I have been sitting here for hours trying to get it right and this is what I came up with. Maybe one day it can be on the Gen II "sticky" list :)
Did someone say "sticky"? :whistle:
 

Blanca BusaLess

Suffers from PBSD
Donating Member
Registered
Wow Macgyver! Thing is novel quality and copywritable !
You should advertise CC instructions on ebay for $9.95 :laugh:
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to post links and give such a thorough explanation of it all.
 

Munchie

Registered
Uuuuhhhh....I don't get it...could you be a little more specific please???


:lol:Just Kiddin Sous!!! :laugh: Awesome writeup man! Documenting a project is often more trouble than doing the project itself, so I can really appreciate the extra effort you put in to provide us the info. :thumbsup:


Thanks dude and nice work...+1 (vote) for "sticky status" :bowdown:
 

Sous

Donating Member
Registered
Efiguero, you will love it. Best mod ever!

I ended up putting silicone around the control panel circuit board and then painting the face of it black. Now you cannot even tell it is there really.
 

fallenarch

THE SLOW RIDER
Registered
Sous,

Does it work like a typical cruise control and hold a speed well? Does the throttle grip turn as the unit is working and does it let go instantly when you brake?

Finally, is the control unit waterproof?

Awesome writeup. Thanks for your efforts!
 

VFRcanada

Registered
Sous,

Does it work like a typical cruise control and hold a speed well? Does the throttle grip turn as the unit is working and does it let go instantly when you brake?

Finally, is the control unit waterproof?

Awesome writeup. Thanks for your efforts!
I have that unit on my Gen I and it works very well. It will hold the speed on hills better than my truck does. The grip will turn but it is usually so very little that you hardly notice it turn. I usually ride with the heel of my hand on the bar end weight and my fingers on the grip. Hit the brake and it lets go instantly, same as your car cruise. Pull in the clutch and it'll rev up a bit and then kick off too. The pad isn't water proof but a little silicone takes care of that. Highly recommend getting one.
 

Sous

Donating Member
Registered
Sous,

Does it work like a typical cruise control and hold a speed well? Does the throttle grip turn as the unit is working and does it let go instantly when you brake?

Finally, is the control unit waterproof?

Awesome writeup. Thanks for your efforts!
As VFRcanada said, this cruise works great. Although, I will say that I did not have very good luck with 1, 4 and 7 being on. The CC pick up (taking over throttle) seemed slow and would not engage on anything lower than 4000 RPM. With the switches set to off except 7 set to on, it works flawlessly. The throttle pick up is quick, but does not throw you back in the seat or anything. The ability for the CC to maintain speed is great. It works as well as my 2008 Subaru does and that is full electronic.

The CC does take over the throttle tube on the bar, but the movement is very slight. This is one reason why I wanted the CC because when I ride my 120 mile round trip to work, 1/4 of an inch on the throttle is 10 MPH. I wanted something that would keep track of the speed for me. So, as VFRcanada does, I ride with the heel of my palm on the bar end and hover over the grip a bit.

In order to cancel the CC, you have 3 choices. The first is to tap the brake and the CC immediately lets go of the throttle, there is no spin down time or anything. It is just like you letting up on the throttle and the tube going back to idle position. You can over power the CC, but you will still need to cancel it as the CC will try to increase throttle, but your hand will not allow it. This would probably cause damage to the servo after a while, but if needed in an emergency you could. You can pull in the clutch and the loss of load on the throttle would cancel the CC as well.

I have this CC in a 1992 Ford F-150 as well and it has worked for years and many thousands of miles. I trust it 100% and know that it is a very simple device that has very little moving parts.

I live in north GA and there are mountains and hills here. The speed varies by about 1 MPH as I go up or down a hill, that is it. I don't know if that is how it works or because of the dip switch settings I have. I did not care for the 4000 RPM minimum, but now I can set it at 2500 RPM if I want and it is ideal for my application.

You will love the mod, trust me and the others that have done it.
 


Latest Bikes

  • 2011 busa
    2011 limited edition candy sonoma red busa
    • Hetheus
    • Updated:
  • New guy here
    Hey what’s up everybody! My names Matt from Southern California. I just...
    • Los.great.beard
    • Updated:
  • My 2014 Hayabusa
    2014 Hayabusa 50th Anniversary
    • Dljat2
    • Updated:
  • Hi Everyone
    Loved
    • BirolBora
    • Updated:
  • 3-wheeler Touring Car
    2002 BMW K1200RS built into a Grinnall Scorpion 3 800lbs 130hp
    • K-Clive
    • Updated:

Forum statistics

Threads
174,158
Messages
3,118,777
Members
48,275
Latest member
Krazca
Top