T-Body Sync Q...

BusaCruise

speachless
Donating Member
Registered
I was reading through Jink's 'how to' on the t-body sync...and I have a Q.

Why aren't the vacuum line connected back the way they were before he started?

They start out all four together ...then he has 1~4 & 2~3
rock.gif

So no the vacumm pulse signal is only coming from 2&3 ...does this matter?
 
well ...he isn't on right now...and I am tired of fighting mosquitoes .... I want this finished.
 
No diff where its hooked! The stock way is as good as any. I think it was because he unhooked his PAR sys? Just make sure you have the little hose holder in the middle of the bodies turn open end to the Right side or it will be pinched on the air cleaner boot 4 # 2. You want a call?
all_coholic.gif
 
Put it back the way you started and you'll be fine.

--Wag--
 
This came up before a while back.

If I remember correctly, Jinkster said he did it that way because of a previous motorcycle he used to own, a yamaha or something. I don't think he ever specified any advantage to the alternate hook-ups.

I hooked mine back up in the stock postition.
 
said fuggit ....never could get the bike to idle for anything with the gauge hooked up .....

hooked all the vacuum lines up and adjusted the screws till it idled ok....

I can't be sure there isn't something specific about the carbtune2 that is required.

I'll just pay the shop to do it.
 
The electric plug on bottom of air box must remain plugged in during sync.. That should take care of the idle..
wink.gif
 
I still need to do this. Can't believe I've read probably every thread about it and still haven't done it. And I need to check/adjust valves...
 
(CAT3 @ Jan. 13 2007,19:43) I still need to do this. Can't believe I've read probably every thread about it and still haven't done it. And I need to check/adjust valves...
Check the valves (tappet clearances) first, when the engine is cold. Then, immediately warm up the engine and do the TB synch. Makes for a nice-running bike!

--Wag--
 
(BusaCruise @ Jan. 13 2007,19:50) said fuggit ....never could get the bike to idle for anything with the gauge hooked up .....

hooked all the vacuum lines up and adjusted the screws till it idled ok....

I can't be sure there isn't something specific about the carbtune2 that is required.

I'll just pay the shop to do it.
With the sensor plugged in and all hooked up proper it still needs to be idling at 1300 to 1500. The air box makes that much diff!
super.gif
 
Have you? that talk about adj valves ever done any with the shim bucket like these need
rock.gif
Just the shim kit is the cost of what a good shop will charge for the job. Or you will have to go to get each one needed from a shop or parts dept after measuring em! The cams have to come out to to install em. Or am i in LA LA land here.  
all_coholic.gif
 
This comment from 04 ORG member!sums it up! If you aren't a super wrench IMO don't attempt the valve adjustment.
rock.gif
geez the TB sync is a cake walk to the valve thing. BTW with all the TLC we give these you wont need it for 20k and then some! PS guys if you have a prob with the TB sync just holler i got lots of cell minutes.
all_coholic.gif


Been there , Done that, for some 25 years. if you have to ask question like that don't do it.
If you want to risk bending a valve ( seen a lot of people do this trying to save a buck)you can either buy indvidual shim from the deal or a kit through K&L $198 I think or a kit from Suzuki more $$$$
Busa valves are most of the time in adjustment way after 16K
 
Daytona, thanks. I think I'll skip the valve adj. I also heard they are good for well beyond mileage also, but figured why not learn a new task. After rebuilding my forks for a first I've been on a trip to rebuild, adj. everything I can
smile.gif
BTW, my local dealership still denies TB's needing to be synched, even after I showed them in the Service Manual! So, I will be doing this maybe next month, with my next oil change.
 
Checking the tappet clearances is no sweat at all. If any of them are out of tolerance, of course, you may want to zip it all back together and take it in if you're uncomfortable with adjusting it.

You'll need new shims. I wouldn't buy the whole kit. Some shops will even trade you the shims you need for the shims you have. Aside from that, they will more than likely just sell you the two or three you might need.

I don't recall when I checke mine last. About 20,000 miles or so, maybe? Anyway, only two of them were VERY VERY slightly out of tolerance so I put it back together and haven't had any problems since.

Getting about time to check 'em again and see if anything has changed. If not, I'll probably never check it again going forward.

It really is easy to check 'em, I assure you.

biggrin.gif


--Wag--
 
Back
Top