I'm more inclined to think idle adjustment for that one, but TB synch is always good if needed.
--Wag--
Synced up the throttle bodies today
- Thread starter BusaWhipped
- Start date
I'm more inclined to think idle adjustment for that one, but TB synch is always good if needed.
--Wag--
Hooking a vacuum gauge to each TB, one at a time might work, to see if one has measurably more vacuum than another, but to take everything apart you might as well have the Carbtune ready. Dennis, when I did my '05, my initial readings looked very much like yours.
if it runs/idles smooth...I wouldnt mees with it.
Dennis.....where does the red circle vacuum line go to ?
I get an early warning when I'm sitting at a stop light, idling, and I can juuuuuuust barely feel a slight knock in the handlebars. Once I synch up the throttle bodies, that goes away.
If you don't need to do it, count yourself fortunate and move on!
--Wag--
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I did this on my first bike. CB750 K1. After it was sitting for 10 years in my uncles garage. Had to rebuild the carbs first. I could never get it dead on. Then I took all 4 carbs off again and found a couple of vacumme leaks. WHAT A PAIN IN THE ARSE. But once I got it running right. It put a smile on my face. My uncle was even impressed that I got the bike running. He tried 10 years before and couldn't. But I think it was an excuse to the wife to buy a Harley. lol.
Blue I'm pretty sure the line originally goes to the pair valve, which you probably took off and plugged when you did your exhaust. Connect the vacuum sensor there so the bike will idle.
Nice write up, Dennis
. Bill (Jinkster did one a while back too).
I thin Red05 is correct. It goes to the PAIR valve is you have one. On mine it goes to the Cruise Control solenoid.
Connect the IAP sensor there while syncing. Its the thing you removed from the back of the air cleaner (3rd picture). Disconnect the vacuum hose from the connector in the "manifold" (center connector infront of the TBs) and stick it on at the red circle. That will keep vacuum to the sensor needed for the computer.
No PAIR here either. I thought you said yours was gone...so was wondering why the IAP hookup?
When I first did my tb sync I had the PAIR.....now I dont.???
The only dumb questions are those never asked, how would you do it right if you don't.
I had to sync the carbs on my 650 Nighthawk last year after I rebuilt the carbs. It might have needed it all along but I never knew it was missing the power. And if you have a good ear and take your time you can get real close w/o the carb tune. But use it to get dead on.
Might as well bring this back from the dead....
I am thinking about buying a carbtune ii to do mine. In the original post the OP says he thinks he got it close but not dead on. Is it just a matter of tinkering to make it more perfect? Or what is the variable? Seems straight forward...
Thanks
I am thinking about buying a carbtune ii to do mine. In the original post the OP says he thinks he got it close but not dead on. Is it just a matter of tinkering to make it more perfect? Or what is the variable? Seems straight forward...
Thanks
They're not gonna get outta sync, unless someone has fooled with them at some point. They are pretty close from the factory, some better than others, but they can only be so close on something mass produced.
They won't all match perfect, so doing this isn't a need, but it can't hurt, just depending on the individual bike, you may/may not notice a difference.
If you have not had yours synched, you dont know how far off they most likely are. It is a must do item to insure performance. I do mine every year, and each time it is needed. Search other threads on this subject. Engine vibration is a factor as is mileage and wear. With a little patience you can get them very close.
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