IG.
Registered
I posted the same text in the original sticky thread, but figured I will share in general as well.
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I just did the sync. Thanks very much to Jinkster for the write-up and nice pictures which are so much clearer than shown in the manual.
I have some points I wanted to add.
- The IAT sensor needsd to be unplugged, unscrewed from the airbox and re-plugged back when doing the sync. I know the manual says it.
- Like Jinkster pointed out, the hoses wouldn't budge and I couldn't remove them from their nipples on throttle bodies. However, the three T-connectors holding it all together come off really easy. So, I removed all three T-connectors thus leaving the short hoses going to each throttle body open on one end. All you need to connect the hoses from the gauges is to have a male-male coupler. So, for 3 out of 4 TB'S I used such couplers, and for the one of them I used one of T-connectors, and instead of connecting the IAP sensor to another nipple on the 4th throttle body, I simply plugged it into the 3d end of the one T-connector I used.
- without the airbox, the bike sounds like crap, and it's idle needs to be maintained around 3k (either hold the throttle or adjust idle, but don't forget to adjust back when the airbox is back on), otherwise my dial gauges were going crazy (the handle jumps all over the place).
- after doing all that, it's a good idea to check that your TPS adjustment is still good. Mine went off, so I had to adjust this one as well.
I've done this the first time after about 30k miles. TB's were not so badly out of sync. I noticed that #1 had less vacuum than #2 and #3 had less vacuum than #4. To correct that I had to screw in the respective screws which suggests that over time with all the vibration, the adjustment screws unscrew themselves a little bit. What's interesting that I didn't have to adjust the middle screw which controls the balance between #1 & #2 on one side and #3 & #4 on another side.
Rode the bike and I think all in all it was behaving noticeably smoother.
Also, I've had another slight issue unrelated to throttle syncing: when I just try to crack the throttle open from completely closed position, it sort of jumps a bit. I traced it back to a purely mechanical issue - there was some stickiness in the axle on which all butteflies sit. So, I sprayed good old WD-40 where the springs on the axle are and other places around the axle where moving parts rub against non-moving parts. This fixed the problem. Now initial crack of the throttle goes pretty smooth.
---------------------------------
I just did the sync. Thanks very much to Jinkster for the write-up and nice pictures which are so much clearer than shown in the manual.
I have some points I wanted to add.
- The IAT sensor needsd to be unplugged, unscrewed from the airbox and re-plugged back when doing the sync. I know the manual says it.
- Like Jinkster pointed out, the hoses wouldn't budge and I couldn't remove them from their nipples on throttle bodies. However, the three T-connectors holding it all together come off really easy. So, I removed all three T-connectors thus leaving the short hoses going to each throttle body open on one end. All you need to connect the hoses from the gauges is to have a male-male coupler. So, for 3 out of 4 TB'S I used such couplers, and for the one of them I used one of T-connectors, and instead of connecting the IAP sensor to another nipple on the 4th throttle body, I simply plugged it into the 3d end of the one T-connector I used.
- without the airbox, the bike sounds like crap, and it's idle needs to be maintained around 3k (either hold the throttle or adjust idle, but don't forget to adjust back when the airbox is back on), otherwise my dial gauges were going crazy (the handle jumps all over the place).
- after doing all that, it's a good idea to check that your TPS adjustment is still good. Mine went off, so I had to adjust this one as well.
I've done this the first time after about 30k miles. TB's were not so badly out of sync. I noticed that #1 had less vacuum than #2 and #3 had less vacuum than #4. To correct that I had to screw in the respective screws which suggests that over time with all the vibration, the adjustment screws unscrew themselves a little bit. What's interesting that I didn't have to adjust the middle screw which controls the balance between #1 & #2 on one side and #3 & #4 on another side.
Rode the bike and I think all in all it was behaving noticeably smoother.
Also, I've had another slight issue unrelated to throttle syncing: when I just try to crack the throttle open from completely closed position, it sort of jumps a bit. I traced it back to a purely mechanical issue - there was some stickiness in the axle on which all butteflies sit. So, I sprayed good old WD-40 where the springs on the axle are and other places around the axle where moving parts rub against non-moving parts. This fixed the problem. Now initial crack of the throttle goes pretty smooth.
