Synthetic vs conventional oil





#1
I've been using Mobile 1 Racing 4t for about 7000 miles, after I broke my King in; A lot of bike shops tell me they have made more money off of guys running Mobile 1 than any other oil mainly because it wears out clutchs. Has anyone heard this? I'm concidering switching back to dyno oil. What Are your thoughts????
 

Jayhawk

Registered
#4
I've been using Mobile 1 Racing 4t for about 7000 miles, after I broke my King in; A lot of bike shops tell me they have made more money off of guys running Mobile 1 than any other oil mainly because it wears out clutchs. Has anyone heard this? I'm concidering switching back to dyno oil. What Are your thoughts????
Stick to the Mobil 1. I don't think the claims these 'bike shops' are making bear out in real world testing around here.
 
#5
Stick to the Mobil 1. I don't think the claims these 'bike shops' are making bear out in real world testing around here.
From my experience and research - whoever told you that, just wanna make some extra money. I ride 2005 Rizla with 22000km (14K miles) and for the last 3K miles I run Motul full synthetic. I don't have problems. Keep in mind that full synthetic will clean your engine better then std oil.
Some people experienced oil leak after switching (old bikes). Engine leaks are cause by seals, which are shrinking or expanding. Motul and Mobile1 have some chemical, which reacts with seals causing it to either shrink or expand. If you have old bike (4000+ miles) and you will use Mobil1 your seals will shrink, hence your engine will have some leaks.
To read more regarding this visit Motul or Mobile1 website, they explain how it works in FAQ as well as they explain why you must use synthetic for bikes and not for cars, (something to do with clutch plates friction or something like that).
I hope that helps.
 

SKnight

Registered
#6
If you run Mobil 1 car formula then yes it can harm your clutches. If it's marked with the energy conserving seal on the bottle then it doesn't belong with wet clutches.

Mobil 1 Racing 4T is a motorcycle formulated oil that has friction modifiers similar to the limited slip additive for car and truck differentials, and it also has some of the properties of gear dope to keep the trans lubed.

45K hard and not so hard miles, had Mobil synthetic from 10K out and still on her first clutch, I haven't had to change my valve clearance yet, and it doesn't leak a drop.
 

b4thenite

Donating Member
Registered
#7
I've been using Mobile 1 Racing 4t for about 7000 miles, after I broke my King in; A lot of bike shops tell me they have made more money off of guys running Mobile 1 than any other oil mainly because it wears out clutchs. Has anyone heard this? I'm concidering switching back to dyno oil. What Are your thoughts????
I'd stay away from them.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#8
Dino oil every time - go the stuff thats formulated for big diesels - rimula x and the like.

Reasons being that
1. its designed to deal with gear shear in those big diesels (so its good with bike gearboxes),
2. diesels are manufactured to close tolerances (just like bike motors) so the oil's gotta be good,
3. no friction modifiers (friendly to bike clutches),
4. its cheap compared to full synth

Just as long as you change it often (I change every 2000kms) you'll be just fine.
 
#12
I say synthetics for sure, I run Motul etech 100 in my busa and have since I got it and changed the clutch at 16k only cause I wanted to go with a barnett kevlar clutch, but I checked the wear on the friction plates and everything and there was hardly any wear (using the specs from my Haynes Busa Book) and Mobile one is a great company for oil, I always use it in all my cars and trucks. but my bikes have always had motul.... no real reason other then motul has worked great so far with 4 different bikes (2000 busa, 2003 zx6r, 2005 gsxr1000, 2007 gsxr750) Synthetic is better cause it can be formulated for the wet clutches better.
 
#13
This is quite a coincidence as my mechanic also told me to stay away from synthetic as it would destroy my clutch.

I had already aquired the oil & filter for the regular oil change.

I bought Castrol Actevo X-tra 4T sae 10w-40

I really don't understand as another B-King owner recommended the oil to me.

Do I just chuck it or do I find a new workshop ?

Regards

BRIAN
 
#14
Some folks are just misinformed or apply a bad experience to all things. If he's a good tech and you like him just don't tell him what's in there.

Like I said mine's had Mobil racing 4T synthetic since it's second oil change, 45K miles later and the clutch is fine.
 

b4thenite

Donating Member
Registered
#15
This is quite a coincidence as my mechanic also told me to stay away from synthetic as it would destroy my clutch.

I had already aquired the oil & filter for the regular oil change.

I bought Castrol Actevo X-tra 4T sae 10w-40

I really don't understand as another B-King owner recommended the oil to me.

Do I just chuck it or do I find a new workshop ?

Regards

BRIAN
More information on org than out there. What he probably meant was not to use regular synthetic, but be sure to use mototcycle specific synthetic oil such as mobil 1 4T syn.
Posted via Mobile Device
 

kml

Donating Member
Registered
#17
mobil 1 5w50 car oil for the last 50,000 kilometers and not one problem with the stock clutch. No 2nd gear problems. Valves checked, never need adjustment. Doesn't burn oil, gets 45 mpg.

cheers
ken
 
#18
Ran mobile one in my Valk. It had 78,000 miles when i sold it. When is the clutch going to go out because i ran mobile one car oil? I always run Syn. in everything I own (lawn mower included)., I generally run Syn-tech (I think), wal-mart. I read several tests on it and it is a lot better than dino oil and a lot cheaper than Mobile 1.
 
#20
What is the general thought on when to switch to synthetic? Do you let the engine break in, or do you put it in at the first oil change? If you let it break in how many miles do you wait?
 



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