2nd Oil Change and Synthetic?

danath 34

danath 34

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Hey guys. I am right around 1k miles right now. The mechanic I go to tells me 2k is when I should do my 2nd oil change. He also says that On the second I should change to fully synthetic Mobil 1 racing oil. Any comments? Should I do the 2nd change at 2k or is that too long? Is it too soon to switch to synthetic?
 
Stay away from racing oil because it is formulated for racing only. There are plenty of cheeper priced synthetics out there for the every day rider like Shell Rotella 15W-40 white container;Chevron Delco 400, 15W-40 blue container and Mobile Delvac 1300, 15W-40 in the black container. Why spend more on higher priced oils when you don't have to.the engine is ready for a synthetic oil change now.
 
Big Red said:
Stay away from racing oil because it is formulated for racing only. There are plenty of cheeper priced synthetics out there for the every day rider like Shell Rotella 15W-40 white container;Chevron Delco 400, 15W-40 blue container and Mobile Delvac 1300, 15W-40 in the black container. Why spend more on higher priced oils when you don't have to.the engine is ready for a synthetic oil change now.
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Well I dont mind paying the extra $$ for the oil. I figure racing oil is formulated to withstand alot. Thus, it should help with the longevity of the engine. Is there any disadvantage to using it in an every day rider?

And what about 2k for the second change? I dont have my manual with me to check, but am just curious.
 
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Expensive Racing oils are not necessarily being the best option for general use. Good 10W-40 standard synthetic oil for motorcycles will include fewer modifiers, which degrades over time, and some Racing oils are more aggressive to the engine. Oil is definitly one of the areas where more expensive is not always equal to better.
 
Alot of racing oil don't use any detergants. In my oppinion the best oil out there are grade 5 poly syn. I use Redline 10w-40 motorcycle oil on my turbo busa and changed to it at 100 miles. A few heat cycles and your ready to go.
 
i just did my second oil change today 3k on my cluster and i went with amsoil full syntheric 10-40w and amsoil oil filter but next time im gone get k&n filter easy to remove ,i hate how suzuki designate the bike to change the filter u have to take the oil line off or no way in hell with brocks full exhaust that filter is coming out
Photo_09oilchange.jpg
 
XBAJBUSX said:
...i hate how suzuki designate the bike to change the filter u have to take the oil line off or no way in hell with brocks full exhaust that filter is coming out
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Yes indeedy...Of course, Brocks maybe shoulda designed their headers so the filter could be removed in the normal way?
 
I always heard that you should not use full synthetic oil in a motorcycle. "synthetic" motorcycle oil is a blend of oil/synthetic. My source said that the transmission does not do well with the full synthetic. I use the Honda synthetic blend. ???
 
The source is full of the brown stuff :laugh: Even cars use full synth oil in manual transmissions these days. You can never go wrong with a well reputed full synth and Honda have made a lot of money on oil, on peoples will to believe, without even beeing in the oil business :colgate:
 
it's absoultely not. i think 2k is the time to change oil.
i recommend that how you know changing oil time is by checking oil color in oil finder on left side of right foot step or open your oil cap, spotting some oil and just see.
if oil color is changed deep black, it mean the time to change oil.
i recommend one more suzuki oil or 50% synthetic oil.
and next. change your full synthetic. :thumbsup:
 
Big Red said:
Stay away from racing oil because it is formulated for racing only.
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This is not necessarily an accurate statement. While it is possible some racing oil is not a good pick for the street, Mobil1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil is the same oil it had always been when it was called MX4T without the “racing: in the name.
 
semperfi said:
I always heard that you should not use full synthetic oil in a motorcycle. "synthetic" motorcycle oil is a blend of oil/synthetic. My source said that the transmission does not do well with the full synthetic. I use the Honda synthetic blend. ???
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You better not put much faith in your "source" :whistle:



Also synthetic is not a blend of dino oil and synthetic oil.

Oils marked as semi-synthetic are blends of dino oil and synthetic.

Some Synthetic oils (Group III) start out as dino oil which is hydro cracked to change it to a full blown synthetic. It is a personal preference of mine to stay with Group IV or Group V Synthetics which are usually Ester or PAO based.
 
Big Red said:
Stay There are plenty of cheeper priced synthetics out there for the every day rider like Shell Rotella 15W-40 white container;Chevron Delco 400, 15W-40 blue container and Mobile Delvac 1300, 15W-40 in the black container. Why spend more on higher priced oils when you don't have to.the engine is ready for a synthetic oil change now.
Click to expand...


One thing you need to be careful of when using the “cheaper synthetics in a motorcycle because of the wet clutch. High levels of friction modifiers could possibly cause some clutch issues in motorcycles. Some of the oil marketed as high mileage oil is typically load with friction modifiers (usually moly) For that reason I would select my oil with a bit of research if I was straying from motorcycle certified oils.

Just because someone said it worked for them does not mean it was the proper oil. I’m betting 95% percent of the people that make the claims their oil is fine because it worked for them have never sent any oil in to have it analyzed. Not blowing up an engine, looking at oil or parts with a naked eye, etc are not very scientific methods of determining what works and what does not.
 
rotts4u said:
Go read this series of articles from Sport Rider magazine.

Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1 - Sport Rider Magazine

Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 2 - Sport Rider Magazine

IT is a few years oil but the basic data and facts remain true today. They used real test lab data and dyno testing to prove everything. Not just opinions

I wrote the article by the way.

Don
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Finally some real data.

Thanks for posting this, Don. I saw this thread last night before you posted and some of the previous posts flat scared me.
 
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