Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks

bazz

Registered
I am thinking of getting a set of these factory pro "Superflare Billet Velocity Stacks" for my 1397cc hayabusa.

I have the following:

1397 big bore
BMC filter
Head gas flowed
Two inlet cams fitted
Yoshi RS3 system

has anyone got any feedback from using these themselves ? before i part with my money

thanks
bazz
 
funny....i have same set up and thinking of same exact stacks. I CANT DECIDE ON ALL SHORTS ALL LONGS OR 2 OF EACH
 
Hi

I was running yoshi stage one cams at one point but they did not suit the motor, i have had APE sprockets put onto the two stock inlet cams ( not sure of settings ) it makes 194 bhp or 201mph with me on it

the stacks i have on at the moment as stock suzuki ones all short ( more top end ) its got 119lbs per ft of torque..

i am really happy with it but thought using these factory pro stacks might just give me the edge ?

Bazz
 
factory stacks are 2 short and two long are your two middle one cut off? do you know what size your cams are?

the reason for all my questions is mine is in shop as we type getting your set up but mine is getting 385/385 cams 12 to 1 comp. my sprockets are 15/43 im changing the 15 (cause thats rediculous) and going with 16 or 17
 
STD bore engines with stock cams nose over early with them vs all shorts .

If your using that 1397 for speed racing above say 9700rpm , just stick with the OEM factory shorts and look for power elsewhere .

Like a good set of cams for example .
 
you need to understand how a velocity stack works to decide what you want for lengths..

They are designed to create a "ram air" effect in operation.. as air travels down the stack it is not a steady flow, it actually "pulses" in effect. During the "pulse" a sensitive sensor will show the frequency of these pulses. The idea is to have the small "positive" air pressure sitting on top of the throttle body or intake valve when it opens.

Long stacks are used for lower rpm and short stacks work better at higher rpms.. the hitch is that they must be "tuned" to the motor. Different cams, displacement, engine configs require different stack combinations to work at different rpm ranges..

for the most part for the street guy, it is a guessing game (and the gains are not all that great) I would be hard pressed to blow $200+ to get 1 or 3 hp..

Sure have seen some pretty ones however....

I would just leave the stock rubber ones on the motor (rubber will work as good as any billet or aluminum stack of the same length.. try running all long/all short
 
you need to understand how a velocity stack works to decide what you want for lengths..

They are designed to create a "ram air" effect in operation..  as air travels down the stack it is not a steady flow, it actually "pulses" in effect.  During the "pulse" a sensitive sensor will show the frequency of these pulses.  The idea is to have the small "positive" air pressure sitting on top of the throttle body or intake valve when it opens.  

Long stacks are used for lower rpm and short stacks work better at higher rpms..  the hitch is that they must be "tuned" to the motor.  Different cams, displacement, engine configs require different stack combinations to work at different rpm ranges..

for the most part for the street guy, it is a guessing game (and the gains are not all that great)  I would be hard pressed to blow $200+ to get 1 or 3 hp..

Sure have seen some pretty ones however....  

I would just leave the stock rubber ones on the motor (rubber will work as good as any billet or aluminum stack of the same length.. try running all long/all short
TY in your opinion do you think it makes much dif. that my 2 inner ones are cut down. THERE IS NO FLARE TO THOSE 2 NOW
 
entry profiles on the stacks is pretty important from the data I collected at CRE engineering (they build gas turbine inlets from solid billets) with no flare or entry profile, all bets are off, the air flow would be to hard to predict
 
i think i will give these a miss then this time around, factory pro claim 3-4 bhp and they are $249 or £178 UKP. a lot of money for little power ?

i thought you where on about the sprockets on the cams ? if your on about the sprockets on the rear wheel and engine i am running 19t on the front and 39t / 40t on the rear with a stock 112 link chain.

i did some messing about with the stock rubber stacks, keeping with the two large and two small combo ( as it comes from the factory ) it was better at low speeds more pulling power, i do use four short rubber ones ( stock ) for top speed runs..

my bike has been set up over 50 plus dyno runs to get it running spot on PC2 fitted with some small adjustment here and there with a teka box

Bazz
 
i think i will give these a miss then this time around, factory pro claim 3-4 bhp and they are $249 or £178 UKP. a lot of money for little power ?

i thought you where on about the sprockets on the cams ? if your on about the sprockets on the rear wheel and engine i am running 19t on the front and 39t / 40t on the rear with a stock 112 link chain.

i did some messing about with the stock rubber stacks, keeping with the two large and two small combo ( as it comes from the factory ) it was better at low speeds more pulling power, i do use four short rubber ones ( stock ) for top speed runs..

my bike has been set up over 50 plus dyno runs to get it running spot on PC2 fitted with some small adjustment here and there with a teka box

Bazz
19 that huge whats your top speed 220? what your horsepower
 
They work good on big motors,and the schnitz ones work good on both small and big motors...
 
Is the short/ long stack combination a way of equalizing the intake tracks to make all four port runners the same lenght ? I know some cam manufactures design camshaft profiles to equalize power on engines that have different total intake track lenghts on automotive engines.
 
i know my guys have some extras laying around igonna have them swop out the 2 cut ones with some longs. if i understand this right the longs would be better for 1/4mi purposes?
 
Is the short/ long stack combination a way of equalizing the intake tracks to make all four port runners the same lenght ? I know some cam manufactures design camshaft profiles to equalize power on engines that have different total intake track lenghts on automotive engines.
sort of a tough question to answer.. it is more of a "yes" "no" answer.. sometimes equal length ports are wanted and other times not..

They do use them to tune runner lengths but there is A LOT of reliance on the parts put into the motor as well. Anything (and I mean anything) that affects air flow (exhaust, intake, cams, port work, cam timing, throttle bodies, air density, humidity) will make a difference when it comes to V-stacks.

It takes gobs of dyno and track time to figure out the best combination on any given setup for a given riding style. As most guys are just buying to make bigger dyno numbers, it gets a little easier..

If you are building a motor that needs to run through a wide band of rpms (say a cosworth on a road course) you could end up with different stacks on each cylinder.. If you are building a strictly drag race motor, it gets a little more simple.

We found that dumping the big 8 hole Enderle injectors in favor of a big tunnel ram with a bug catcher produced around 20hp less on the top end and cut almost 2 tenths off the ET on my hydro in the 1/4 (less power, faster boat)

If you are going to spend the money on them, do your homework (or better find a tuner that has already tried 10 sets and knows what works best) Max hp is not always the best option, sometimes giving up power at top end is better used in the mid range..

Most of this is why I figure it is not worth the expense on most street bikes and the stockers are just fine.. I would buy them for show before I would by them for go on my bike..
 
I've had my bike for 2 months and gained a total of 22 hp over the factory baseline dyno pull. I don't make a change until it makes sense on paper. Now I've been critized for making that comment ("on paper") but with a dregree in mathmatics thats what makes since to me and since I've built a 9 sec car based on that strategy I'll continue to do so. This is what I've done so far...

- Schnitz racing volocity stacks - the blue aluminum 41mmm short stacks (79.5mm elliptical flare). Based on the design and the pre-determined max coefficient flow these made the most since. I made a few assumptions on the elliptical flare and was right, we didn't loose ANY power at the higher RPMS. We gained 8hp gain on the dyno coming in as early as 6200 rpm to the full 8 hp gain at 7500 - 11000. The bike never loss any power from that point on and never dropped even a 1/4 hp all the way to redline
- Yoshimira 4-1
- K&N Filter
- Power commander
- TRE
- Small Air Bix Mod
- Brocks clutch Mod
- Brocks Pair Block-off
- using full synthetic oil

I loved everyones feedback and opinions to help me reach these gains but there is a lot of opinon vs fact out there and you have to sift through it to reach your objective.

I'll take more fact feedback from anyone on what you think my next steps should be for more power.

Thanks,
 
except flow rate is not the entire effect of a velocity stack or we would have 4" diameters..

Flow rate/velocity/resonance all enter the equation and each will change with air density changes..

Our dyno pulls on velocity stacks were pretty much inconclusive (acceleration rate of motor is hard to quantify consistently on any dyno) Your 22 hp over 2 months may only be half of that or half again more depending on ambient conditions or changes in dyno calibration... I would gamble a bet that you would be hard pressed to mirror your baseline run without any changes..

Dyno numbers outside of a single test session just do not mean much ... dyno numbers on the same bike, same day, same conditions at least give you an idea of gains/losses.. make that worse by giving up power to gain lower ET is entirely possible..
 
I've had my bike for 2 months and gained a total of 22 hp over the factory baseline dyno pull.  I don't make a change until it makes sense on paper.  Now I've been critized for making that comment ("on paper") but with a dregree in mathmatics thats what makes since to me and since I've built a 9 sec car based on that strategy I'll continue to do so.  This is what I've done so far...

- Schnitz racing volocity stacks - the blue aluminum 41mmm short stacks (79.5mm elliptical flare). Based on the design and the pre-determined max coefficient flow these made the most since. I made a few assumptions on the elliptical flare and was right, we didn't loose ANY power at the higher RPMS. We gained 8hp gain on the dyno coming in as early as 6200 rpm to the full 8 hp gain at 7500 - 11000.  The bike never loss any power from that point on and never dropped even a 1/4 hp all the way to redline
- Yoshimira 4-1
- K&N Filter
- Power commander
- TRE
- Small Air Bix Mod
- Brocks clutch Mod
- Brocks Pair Block-off
- using full synthetic oil

I loved everyones feedback and opinions to help me reach these gains but there is a lot of opinon vs fact out there and you have to sift through it to reach your objective.

I'll take more fact feedback from anyone on what you think my next steps should be for more power.

Thanks,

Stock motor or 1397?

so you have the schnitz stacks and gained 8 hp with just adding those alone no other changes?

what did bike dyno before and after the swap?
 
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