I think we all don’t want to think about winter, but we know it is coming.
I fill up the tank and add the required amount of gas stabilizer. Lube the chain. I take the battery into the house and put it on the Battery Tender (do not leave it sitting on bare concrete – it will wreck it). I get to start it up periodically in the winter, when the weather is right – not too cold. Let it warm up a while, and pull the brake and clutch levers to keep the seals wet.
In the spring I change all of the fluid levels, oil and filter, antifreeze, service the air filter, etc.
Some say to do this before storage, but I like to have it all new in the spring instead.
Here is an article I had lying around that might give you more info. It is not specific but I had it on hand.
I know they make a spray that you can spray into the intake scoops while running just before you shut it down, if you can’t start it all winter. It leaves an oil residue in the cylinders.
STORING YOUR MOTORCYCLE
________________________________________
• The Minimum
1. Gas rots, so you must put in fuel stabilizer and run the engine long enough to get it completely through the carbs. Then, either fill up the gas tank to full ( To the bottom of the filler neck ) with gas that has no Alcohol ( Oxygenated ) in it, and has the proper mix of fuel stabilizer in it. Or drain all of the gas out of the tank and spray some gas soluble oil on the inside of the tank to keep it from rusting. The choice is up to you. Either way is OK.
2. Drain all the gas out of the carbs. Most carbs have a drain screw on the bottom of the carb.
3. Take the battery out and, if necessary, add distilled water to it and clean off the outside ( Battery Box Too ! ) with a mixture of baking soda and water. Then put the battery on a trickle charger ( No more than one AMP) and charge it till it is fully charged. Do this at least once a month, till you start riding again.
• The Maximum - Add The Following.
1. Wash and wax your Motorcycle.
2. Change the engine oil and oil filter.
3. Change ALL other oils and fluids, such as rear end oil, radiator fluid, brake fluid, etc.
4. Take out all the spark plugs and put about a tablespoon of engine oil down each spark plug hole. Now, before putting the spark plug(s) back in, turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil around the cylinder. Be sure and ground the spark plug wires when you do this. This is to protect the ignition system. Now reinstall the spark plug(s).
5. Use a breathable motorcycle cover to keep dust and moisture out. Plastic tarps that don't breath trap moisture in, causing rust.
• Something More
1. I like to put some type of water displacing, penetrating oil in each cylinder to sort of dry it out, before I put in the engine oil. Combustion makes a lot of water, and some of it always seems to get into the piston ring area.
2. I like to use some kind of Armor All type preservative on all plastic and rubber parts.
3. If you change the fluid in your bike's radiator, use distilled water and a motorcycle type anti-freeze. Car type anti-freezes use additives that can wear out your water pump.
4. If you change your brake or clutch fluid, use the type recommended for your system, Dot 3, 4, or 5. Which one ? It's in your Shop Manual. You do have one, don't you ?
5. It costs a bit more, but you can get a trickle charger that will shut off automatically when the battery is fully charged and start up again when it's charge goes down. You can leave it connected and on all the time.
6. Aluminum does rust...sort of, so an application of spray wax or the like, to all surfaces of the engine, wouldn't hurt.
7. Keep the bike in a dry, heated garage, if possible.
8. Once a month or so, turn the engine over a couple of times, to keep things loose and lubed !
9. Keep it in the dark... sunlight thru a window can fade paint and the like.