Storing bike during winter months

You should just ride it down south, and leave it with another Busa owner to properly maintain (ie. ride the snot out of it) it during the winter for you. :rofl:
 
You mean not ride it? Why the hell not? It's so much better looking than mine why wouldn't you want it all year :moon:
 
Full tank of fuel, fully charged battery is all I do.

But most of the time I ride year round, as long as the snow is off the road:whistle:
 
I think we all don’t want to think about winter, but we know it is coming.

I fill up the tank and add the required amount of gas stabilizer. Lube the chain. I take the battery into the house and put it on the Battery Tender (do not leave it sitting on bare concrete – it will wreck it). I get to start it up periodically in the winter, when the weather is right – not too cold. Let it warm up a while, and pull the brake and clutch levers to keep the seals wet.
In the spring I change all of the fluid levels, oil and filter, antifreeze, service the air filter, etc.
Some say to do this before storage, but I like to have it all new in the spring instead.

Here is an article I had lying around that might give you more info. It is not specific but I had it on hand.
I know they make a spray that you can spray into the intake scoops while running just before you shut it down, if you can’t start it all winter. It leaves an oil residue in the cylinders.


STORING YOUR MOTORCYCLE
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• The Minimum
1. Gas rots, so you must put in fuel stabilizer and run the engine long enough to get it completely through the carbs. Then, either fill up the gas tank to full ( To the bottom of the filler neck ) with gas that has no Alcohol ( Oxygenated ) in it, and has the proper mix of fuel stabilizer in it. Or drain all of the gas out of the tank and spray some gas soluble oil on the inside of the tank to keep it from rusting. The choice is up to you. Either way is OK.
2. Drain all the gas out of the carbs. Most carbs have a drain screw on the bottom of the carb.
3. Take the battery out and, if necessary, add distilled water to it and clean off the outside ( Battery Box Too ! ) with a mixture of baking soda and water. Then put the battery on a trickle charger ( No more than one AMP) and charge it till it is fully charged. Do this at least once a month, till you start riding again.
• The Maximum - Add The Following.
1. Wash and wax your Motorcycle.
2. Change the engine oil and oil filter.
3. Change ALL other oils and fluids, such as rear end oil, radiator fluid, brake fluid, etc.
4. Take out all the spark plugs and put about a tablespoon of engine oil down each spark plug hole. Now, before putting the spark plug(s) back in, turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil around the cylinder. Be sure and ground the spark plug wires when you do this. This is to protect the ignition system. Now reinstall the spark plug(s).
5. Use a breathable motorcycle cover to keep dust and moisture out. Plastic tarps that don't breath trap moisture in, causing rust.
• Something More
1. I like to put some type of water displacing, penetrating oil in each cylinder to sort of dry it out, before I put in the engine oil. Combustion makes a lot of water, and some of it always seems to get into the piston ring area.
2. I like to use some kind of Armor All type preservative on all plastic and rubber parts.
3. If you change the fluid in your bike's radiator, use distilled water and a motorcycle type anti-freeze. Car type anti-freezes use additives that can wear out your water pump.
4. If you change your brake or clutch fluid, use the type recommended for your system, Dot 3, 4, or 5. Which one ? It's in your Shop Manual. You do have one, don't you ?
5. It costs a bit more, but you can get a trickle charger that will shut off automatically when the battery is fully charged and start up again when it's charge goes down. You can leave it connected and on all the time.
6. Aluminum does rust...sort of, so an application of spray wax or the like, to all surfaces of the engine, wouldn't hurt.
7. Keep the bike in a dry, heated garage, if possible.
8. Once a month or so, turn the engine over a couple of times, to keep things loose and lubed !
9. Keep it in the dark... sunlight thru a window can fade paint and the like.
 
winter???is there much need to worry...hmmm nvm i guess there is for some of you lol those of us in the south know it doesnt get very cold actually seems liek good ridin conditions xD
 
I live in Anchorage Alaska. Our riding season avrage is 6 to 7 months riding in 30drg weather on both ends of this short season. I have NEVER drained my fluids or put STABLIZER in my fuel tank. I have 5 motorcycles M109R, FJR1300, 1 Orange and Black Buss and 2 GEN1 Busas. Some I stash in an inclosed trailer others I stash in my heated garage. It gets 20 to 30 below 0 at times and when spring arrives they always fire right up, just like my lawn mower that sits out side all winter. If I was to store my machines for 2 to 3 years I may go to the extreams MIKE1180 goes to.:poke:
 
In Alberta our season is not much better.
I have had a lot of trouble with bad gas, and gas varnishing over a short period.
That was on carburetor dirt bikes etc, so I don't even want to go there on a FI system.
I admit I am over cautious, but it costs about $3 for a can of STA-BIL, and I like to hear it run whenever I can over the winter, so...
Buddy across the street has an old BMW and has a 12 year old battery in it.
He took care of it, and they do last. I never got over 5 years, so we'll see what the battery Tender and staying warm will do.
I'll be thinking about you in January as we both sit and look at our bikes and dream. LOL

http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/index.htm

Stabil_r4_c2.jpg
 
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