SRP (Steadman Motorsports) Stage one install HELP!!

GhostRider, slow and steady wins the race! From reading your messages it sounds like you are very anxious, which is understandable, but take a few breaths, maybe a step back and just know it will all work out in the end. :poke: I want to give you some words of encouragement so when I get mine you can tell me to calm the hell down too! :laugh:

On a side note, did you add the BOV to the kit yourself?

Yea, that's actually excellent advice. I'm tryin not to rush anything. Right now i'm just mocking the parts up, really not even that far into it. It's not that I'm in a hurry, I feel like I have all winter to get the install done. I'm just a little upset that I spent as much money as I did for all of these problems with fitment. I repair helicopters for a living (sheetmetal mechanic), and I can tell you if I put a product like this on an aircraft it wouldn't go over very well at all. I'm completely capable of installling or even fabricating new parts for this install but I really feel I shouldn't have to for the $$ that I spent, still a little upset there are no real installation instructions. I want to do it right the first time to save myself from having to get back into it later to fix something.

Not to get off on a rant......Thanks for the advice!!!
 
So I flipped the fmu. This gave me more clearance than before but I will have to cut the LH plastic for the charge pipes to meet. The turbo bolts are loose so that the charge side will rotate. The lower pipe will go back but the plastics are stopping it. I have some longer silicone couplers coming in the mail that may also help my fit. I will take some more pics when I cut the plastic.

Kevin, not sure what you are asking but I have purchased t-bolt clamps for my silicone couplers. Not sure if your talking about v-band clamps or not. The only v-band is on the blow off valve.

We usually have to trim the left panel to clear the charge tube on any install, the cuts are on the inside of the main fairing opening . . . cut a little at a time, don't get greedy . . . cut, check, cut, check . . .:thumbsup:
 
Oh, and thats were the BOV comes mounted from Steadman. I didn't have an option on that one so if you want your kit different I would give him a call now and ask if they can weld it up on the other side. Let me know how that goes, I may want to send mine back and have a different one made.
 
Those airboxes are made here at RCC for Stedman, but just to be clear, RCC did not weld that BOV.

Richard
 
Don't feel bad about the fmu because I have the same kit and I've been riding mine for a year in a half with the fmu not mounted, but thank you for posting up that pick I'm going to go flip mine over in a few mins. My question is will the tank still close with the fmu turned up like that???
 
I just installed my srp kit last night. It went smooth, the air filter has to be crushed a little bit to fit under the body work i couldnt find a better one to fit and hide it, I got one from stedman that comes out the fairing looks awsome better this way anyway more air. If you can find one to fit under the plasik let me know? As far as the fmu I moved it over alittle and drilled and taped a new hole wasn't a big deal it looks great. And you do have to trim the plastic a little bit But i think RCC kits do as well. SRP's:thumbsup: kit was easy to install for me. Wedding bells to Richard
 
What size and how many of those couplers did you get/need? I want to go ahead and order them now so I have everything ready. Thanks
 
What size and how many of those couplers did you get/need? I want to go ahead and order them now so I have everything ready. Thanks

I ordered from this website here: Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts

I ordered five 2.00" inside diameter 3" long couplers for the charge system. I plan on cutting 2 of them in half for the throttle bodies and use the other three for the charge system. I also ordered 14 T-bolt clamps.

I ordered from this site because they have the best price for the t-bolt clamps. It was somewhere around $80 but I am sure it will not only look better but function better also.

I also fabricated a new bracket for my FMU that I will post up when I get it mocked up on the bike. Basically I moved the FMU 2 inches to the right side so I can put it down instead of up.
 
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