SRP Stage 1 Build - GHOSTRIDER

BUSA GHOSTRIDER

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I originally ordered my Stage 1 kit from Steadman back on July 1st. It took quite a while to get the kit and I've had a couple of issues with it but everyone on the forum has been extremely gracious in helping me out.

I am new to turbos so if you see something that looks off please feel free to point it out. I am not yet finished with the build but I have a really good start on it. I will keep updating this thread with photos as I progress. I have used quite a few ideas that I have seen others here on the forum do. I would like to thank BigRod1300 for his build thread as it helped be immensely to further my own build.

I am posting this in hopes that it may in some small way inspire someone else to build or possibly answer some question you may be too embarrassed to ask (I know I had a few that were no brainers).

So here we go!!! :cheerleader:

I ordered the stage one kit from Steadman Motorsports. I was extremely interested in the RCC kit but figured that Steadman's kit was similar to it at about 3/4 the price. Now part of me has been kicking myself in the butt for not doing the RCC kit.

On one hand I had to wait quite a bit longer for the kit, some of the parts were not what I considered up to par (I will show what I changed), and come to find out the install instructions on Steadman’s site are not for his kit, which is a topic in itself (They keep telling me they are in the middle of an install CD, like RCC). To Steadman’s credit, he will answer any question that you have if you give him some time to get back to you via e-mail. I have called numerous times and rarely received help over the phone (I'm really not fond of their secretary). The few times I did get Jay on the phone he was extremely helpful and willing to answer all of my "stupid" questions. I am not yet convinced on the actual turbo that I received. I had done some research and was told the turbo Steadman uses is a Master Power, but I'm not so sure about that after seeing the turbo I have and pictures of other Master Power turbos. The turbo I received does not have Master Power on the charge side like I have seen in photos. I am hoping and praying that it isn't Chinese. I don't think that it would be simply because of the builds I have heard of coming out of Steadmans'. I don't think that their shop would jeopardize their reputation by selling cheap turbo systems that would most certainly fail. The next time I get someone on the phone I will make sure to ask exactly what turbo they are using.

Now on the other hand, I have done quite a bit to this kit that I received. I am glad that I saved some cash because I have put a whole lot more into this kit than I expected (not just the kit but additions to my bike that I feel may be needed). I look at the RCC kit and I would have wanted to do almost all of the same things but would not have been able to.

I believe that with a good tune I should be looking at somewhere around 225-250 hp. I have seen some difference in what other stage 1 systems have been putting out so I am not sure exactly what she will make. I was assuming from the get go that the first thing done with the bike when I finish it is the tune. I live in NC and have a couple of different options for a tune. I have been told that there are some pretty reputable tuners here in NC but I have elected to take my bike to Powerhouse in NY. I originally purchased the bike new off the floor in Long Island so I don't see the problem heading back up that way to complete my build. I based this decision on talking to 4 different tuners. I think the thing that I have been most concerned with was the tune. It's a little scary putting a chunk of your hard earned money into your baby and handing her off to someone that may not treat her how you would like her to be treated. I felt extremely comfortable with Frank after getting off the phone with him. After talking with him I could immediately tell that he would take care of me and my bike. He didn't have the attitude that he was better than me because I had a couple of silly questions and he knew more, that scores highly in my book. I can see from the forum how he treats his bike and customers, and he has excellent reviews here....So I was Sold!

This is how my bike sat before I started.
2007 Hayabusa - I had powder coated the rear sets, passenger pegs, sprocket, brake bar, painted master cylinder, painted fairing bolts (I paint these because they are easy to touch up if you nick them and look the same as power coat when done properly). Aftermarket grab bars, Puig DB windscreen, mirror block off's, smoked front headlight cover. Wave Rotors are eBay specials that work pretty well, I think I paid $190 for all 3 after a buddy of mine suggested them. I installed the Powers Stunt Works Race Railz (which I feel protect the bike much better) and a rear view camera system by Motional Eyes with a 7 inch LCD display and night vision (works great when you don't have any mirrors). Motional Eyes - A Rear-View Camera Solution for ALL Sport Bikes

Bike is lit with lights from Joe Florida’s 96 LED sportbike kit with remote
Led Accent Lights Motorcycle Led Lights Motorcle Accent Ligths Motorcycle Led Lights Motorcle Lights Led Motorcycle Accent Led Lights

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So this is the kit as I received it:

You can see the black charge couplers in the first pic (changing these). I ordered a power commander with the starter map already installed from Steadman along with a muzzy fan blade to replace my stock one.

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The first thing to do was breaking her down and start fitting the parts. I had a little trouble with my FMU and lining up the charge pipes which I will show shortly.

Take a look at the air filter that was sent in the kit. I originally wanted the stealth look of keepin the filter in the fairing. Little did I know that the only way to make that filter fit would be to crush it before install. I'm not sure about you guys, but crushing the air filter isn't quite what I had in mind. I talked to Frank at Powerhouse and he suggested I throw that one in the trash (if any of you guys are looking for a filter I can get ya this one). He told me it would rob a little power being under the fairing so I have decided to get a shoot out filter from him. It's not exactly the look I wanted but I would rather do it right the first time.

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Ok, so this is where I hit my first snag. I was fitting the up pipes and nothin I could do would allow me to mount the FMU where it needed to go.

I took a couple of people's advice and flipped the bracket on the FMU upside down which probably would have worked but I still didn't like it. It was still a little too close to the charge pipe for me.

Ultimately I fabricated my own bracket that moved the FMU about 2 inches to the right. Works Great!! When I go to remove the FMU again I will trim my bracket so it doesn't stick out the side of the tank and paint it black to match.

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I installed the heavy duty clutch springs and the slave support that I had ordered along with the kit. Now I tried to install 3 heavy duty springs and 3 OEM springs but didn't really like how it felt. I don't know what it was but I felt better about installing all 6 HD springs. I know that it'll be a harder pull but I've seen a couple guys post that you should get used to it.

Next was to start fitting the plastic. Now I used a die grinder with a 1 inch sanding drum to do mine. I taped it all off. Drew lines to start leaving myself plenty to trim and chain drilled along the line. Just in case you don't know. Take a 3/16 drill bit and drill close together along the inside of the line then cut with a pair of dikes. I bought a Dremel for this but didn't feel comfortable using it since it was my first time. I use the die grinder on a daily basis so it just worked better for me. Now I took this close but not all the way. I am going to get everything coated so I am allowing for a little shift in the parts after removing them and reinstalling them. Nothing seems to ever fit the same twice.

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I sent everything off to be Jet coated and Powder Coated. I asked the place to Jet coat the Turbo, the dump pipes, flange, and the header. I was going to have the charge side powder coated to match. When I picked everything up the guy told me he went ahead and jet coated everything for the same price, $281. Pretty good deal as far as I'm concerned. Now I know that some of you will say that this will hold heat on the charge side but I don't really care. It shouldn't really make that much of a difference and this is not a drag bike, just a daily driver. I will install more red lights under the take to light this area up when finished. I'm thinkin that should be a good touch.

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Thats sexy. I want a stage 1 turbo so bad :-(

Its so expensive, maybe one day.............
 
I really liked the look of the full sweep gauges but after talking to a rep. at AutoMeter I was informed that a digital gauge would be a better setup for a bike. After some searching I decided to go with GlowShift Gauges.

Fuel Pressure gauge to be run off the tripple clamp / autometer black cup

Wideband Air / Fuel ratio gauge to be mounted to the windscreen opposite the mirror block off

Boost gauge to be mounted to the windscreen opposite the mirror block off.

Now I saw a pic of someones bike were the gauges were mounted like I have indicated above. I will use AutoMeter cups to mount the boost and A/F gauge to the windscreen. I am a little concerned about vibration but figure that it's worth a shot. Looks pretty cool!

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Like I said, it looks great with the full sweep gauges but I am concerned about vibration. I figure the digital gauges will hold up better here.

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The second snag that I hit was the routing of the boost / vac lines. Now the kit that I have came with instructions that were for a different set up and the support is a little lacking. After talking with some of the board members, e-mailing Richard from RCC, and talking to Frank from Powerhouse this is what I am proceeding with.

This was the 4th drawing.......I was told by Richard my first attempted setup would blow my bike up. :whistle:

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I originally purchased a second GSXR-1000 fan from Steadman but after doing some searching on EBay, decided that $75 was a little high. I purchased the fan for $35 and ordered the Muzzy blade for it as well.

Now I had run the power plug to where I thought it was going for the temp relay, my mistake for doing that. The plug for the fans is located next to the fuse box on the left side of the bike just under the left grip. So basically my wires are a little too long which I may fix before installing the radiator or just loop it back around over the top.

I painted the fan blades red and I am sure someone will tell me I shouldn't have done this. I don't think it added that much weight to the blades and I'm pretty sure the aluminum blades are lighter than the plastic anyway. Probably unnecessary but thought it might look cool when everything is lit up.

I used the write up from this forum to do the second fan mod and it worked perfect. I riveted everything together on mine but that's what I know how to do and I am not a welder. A couple of flush rivets to fasten everything together, a little paint, and she's good to go.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/engi...cond-cooling-fan-busa.html?highlight=gsxr+fan

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Started what I hope is the final install of the turbo. I sent the wastegate that I had received back to Steadman’s. I originally ordered a red anodized wastegate and was sent the chrome one. As you can tell I am not doing any chrome on the bike. Once I get this back I should be about done. I still have to install the power commander, which shouldn't be too eventful. I am sure that the gauges will take me some time. I think I have them figured out but may decide to go a different route, not sure yet. All I know is that I will not buy the tiger gauge cluster.

I took the OEM fuel pump out along with the pressure regulator and then reinstalled everything. I still have to wire up the fuel pump and install a third fuel T for my fuel pressure gauge.

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I purchased the air filter from Frank at Powerhouse and took the idea of the red silicone couplers and clamps from BigRod. I believe I orderd them from silicone intakes.

Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts

I ordered too many clamps thinking that I would also use them for the throttle bodies. The 3/4 inch clamps are too thick to use there. If anyone is looking to do something similar to this I have a couple left that I can ship them to you for a decent price, if not I guess I've got extras.
 
Here is a picture of where I mounted what I believe is the Map sensor. This is the one I pulled front the back of the original air box.

I had a little trouble closing the tank after drilling and installing a fitting at the bottom of the fuel bowl so I have ordered a low profile crankcase breather cover. The filter that you see in the pic is something that I had picked up from AutoZone. There was nothing said about what I should do with the crankcase vent so I threw a filter on it after seeing photos of BigRod's build.

I still have what looks like a temp sensor that the instructions tell me to "wrap with some tape".

Where are you guys putting this sensor after you remove it? I figured it would thread into my plenum since it came out of the air box. Should I throw some heat shrink around it to protect it? I would think that it would still be sending a signal to the ECU, or was this something that the old air box needed and is no longer required (which in that case would throw a code if not connected)? Someone please give me a heads up on this one.

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The temp sensor should get zip tied to the injector harness and just left to read the ambient air temperature.

Richard
 
Like Richard said, just zip tie it out of the way. I had mine along my left frame rail, never had a problem with it just being secured back and out of the way.
 
Wow nice pics and nice write ups. Can't wait to see how it runs. Just curious though, where is a good source to read up on turbos and all the stuff that comes with it (the different gauges, parts, how they work, what they do, etc.)? I always seem to get lost whenever people talk turbo stuff :banghead:
 
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