I am thinking about replacing my stock exhaust on my 2013. My brother is telling me to just get slip ons because they are cheaper and there is no point to full systems. What are pros and cons for slip ons vs Full exhaust systems? Also what are some brands to stay away from and some recommended ones??? Thanks ahead of time.
Slip on vs Full System
- Thread starter My1stBusa
- Start date
Slip ons are good for looks, sound, and noticeable weight loss(flicking bike side to side), and maybe 1-2 hp you'll never feel.
A good full exhaust, with a dyno tune, will give you a ballpark of 10hp and 5' lbs of torque.
A full exhaust IS the way to go, your brother is incorrect.
The best exhaust out there is the one YOU like the looks and sound of best.
You can't go wrong with Akropovic, Ti-Force, Brocks, Yoshimura, all high quality.
There are many others too.
A good full exhaust, with a dyno tune, will give you a ballpark of 10hp and 5' lbs of torque.
A full exhaust IS the way to go, your brother is incorrect.
The best exhaust out there is the one YOU like the looks and sound of best.
You can't go wrong with Akropovic, Ti-Force, Brocks, Yoshimura, all high quality.
There are many others too.
Set the suspension sag, and upgrade the front brake pads and lines first.
The bike will handle and stop better.
More power is secondary.
The bike will handle and stop better.
More power is secondary.
Sounds good man. Thanks. I just got the bike, and it's completely stock. It's also my first bike, so I'm trying to figure out what upgrades are needed first. Why just the front brakes? What is suspension sag?
Suspension is the most important thing on ANY sportbike, and yet so few seem to know about it(as well as tires and proper psi).
It is having the suspension set up for your weight(including gear).
So the suspension works without transferring most of the motion into the frame.
It is what makes the bike handle. There is no base setting either.
Have a perfectly set bike, turn a couple screws, and handling gets terrible, and vice versa.
Search hear for "Jinkster attacks suspension", or youtube Dave Moss.
The front brakes do the majority of the stopping. Stock, they are in need of improvement. Ceramic embedded pads will stop you sooner. Stainless steel lines will not stop you sooner, but will really improve the lever feel. The rear brakes are good enough as is.
I would adjust the levers up/down, left/right until they feel like they are in the best place for your hands.
First bike? I'de reccomend learning to keep 1or 2 fingers on the levers, and the other 2-3 on the grips. Also have the clutch lever adjusted to engage far away from the bar.
That way you can pull it in/disengage it, and not crush the fingers on the bars, same for the brake. That will help you control the bike better. It's a preference, not a rule.
But, if you let the clutch go too hard with 4 fingers, you don't have alot of grip.
With 2 or 3 fingers on the bars, you have some grip, and it's easier to maintain control.
Practice braking, emergency stops, until you master a very small stoppie.
Ride like you're invisible, everyone is trying to hit you, try to forsee any possible outcome ahead, and do it all relaxed without being paranoid.
Skill will come much faster with a bike that is set up correctly.
Ask lots of questions. Many good folks here always willing to help.
Welcome to the org.
Thank you sir. This is my first time owning a bike, but my brother has had his bike (as well as friends) for about 10 years. So I have been riding for a while. But I always appriciate tips. I'm not trying to go full performance upgrades, but I want a couple. I am a big dude....6'4" 275lbs. So i will look into the suspension thing and brake thing. Is a power commander pretty needed? Seems like everyone has them.
A full exhaust will also make the motor more responsive. To me this is the biggest advantage. Don't know about the Gen 1 but the cats on the Gen 2 were always super hot on my feet too.
The bad news is that 275lbs, you can't get proper fork spring sag, and will need new fork springs installed for your weight.
Stock springs aren't good for much over 200lbs.
The rear shock is ok.
If the front sag is perfect, and the rear is off, or vice versa, the whole ride suffers. Both need to be right...especially the front.
It's going to dive hard under braking with your weight.
Correct springs and sag and you will be amazed on how much better the bike handles, night and day.
And +1 on getting rid of the stock gen2 header with catalytic converter, it does cook your feet.
A power commander is not needed.
All they do is adjust the air/fuel ratio, and you need a dyno or data logger to do that.
Most PC base maps are garbage too.
Brocks PC base maps are good if you get his exhaust.
Have the ecu flashed if you want a little more lower rpm umph.
All they do is adjust the air/fuel ratio, and you need a dyno or data logger to do that.
Most PC base maps are garbage too.
Brocks PC base maps are good if you get his exhaust.
Have the ecu flashed if you want a little more lower rpm umph.
Specifically, if you add slip-ons you don't need a power commander as the bike's ECU can generally compensate for this minor change. If you want the full performance from a full exhaust however, a power commander is one option (bazzaz is another). Basically a full exhaust (and a race filter) changes the engine's breathing beyond what the ECU can completely account for with stock programming. There are 2 options here: 1) is to change the ECU which is called flashing (re-programming). 2) add a power commander or similar device that adjusts the stock ECU settings to fit the requirements for the new exhaust. Whether you go PC or Flashing, it's best to dyno tune so the map is specific to your bike. Power Commanders offer you nothing in and of themselves - they need a map. So for example, adding a power commander to a stock bike will not do much of anything. Flashing (re-programming) the ECU can improve even a stock bike, as well as remove things like the top speed limiter. It's a lot more complicated than that, but basically here are the options:
1. Slip-ons. You can easily put these on yourself. They will change the sound of the bike and reduce the weight a bit. I have found that slip-ons for the Busa are as much as a full exhaust because the stock exhaust requires 2 cans. Many full exhausts are one sided, so the full exhaust is only a couple hundred more than the slip-ons.
2. Full exhaust. This is a bit more complicated to install. You can run the bike with the full exhaust but this could result in engine damage and you won't get the full advantage of the system. With a full exhaust you'll get better sound, better response and a few HP to boot. You need to do one of the following (note 2A is cheapest, 2B most expensive, 2C best):
2A. Add a PC and use a stock map that matches your new configuration.
2B. Add a PC and dyno tune the bike.
2C. Have the ECU re-flashed with a dyno tune. (find someone who knows what they are doing!)
1. Slip-ons. You can easily put these on yourself. They will change the sound of the bike and reduce the weight a bit. I have found that slip-ons for the Busa are as much as a full exhaust because the stock exhaust requires 2 cans. Many full exhausts are one sided, so the full exhaust is only a couple hundred more than the slip-ons.
2. Full exhaust. This is a bit more complicated to install. You can run the bike with the full exhaust but this could result in engine damage and you won't get the full advantage of the system. With a full exhaust you'll get better sound, better response and a few HP to boot. You need to do one of the following (note 2A is cheapest, 2B most expensive, 2C best):
2A. Add a PC and use a stock map that matches your new configuration.
2B. Add a PC and dyno tune the bike.
2C. Have the ECU re-flashed with a dyno tune. (find someone who knows what they are doing!)
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Do they do these things at a dealership? I wouldn't even know where to start to find out where to go.
Where can I get this done usually? Dealer?
Probably not the flashing. That would be a performance shop. Post your general area and people will tell you who is good. Also Frank at Powerhouse does a general re-flash (not for tuning but other stuff you will like) and you can just mail him the ECU.
I live near Omaha, NE.
Dealer will do suspension. This is usually pretty cheap. If you do springs, try Racetech and add their gold valves, new fork oil, and adjustment. Maybe $400 or so for parts and service. New spring on the shock is maybe $20 but it's a bit of a bear to get to. Sixpack is right though this will change the bike for you.
If you have experience, this is not a difficult job at all to DIY.
Someone in that area will chime in.
RedBull
Registered
One caution, don't mess with the spring on the rear shock as it can kill or dismember you. Saw one of those pop once and it was not pretty. Find a good performance shop and they will be your friend!
Wow! We have been diddling back and forth for so long it's great to actually help someone with their Busa again!
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