Slave Cylinder Push Rod Travel

Mitchd43

Registered
Good morning

Does anyone know what the travel is on the clutch slave cylinder?

I put a new clutch pack and HD springs in and now the clutch will not disengage.

The clutch stack is 2.00 inches

The line has been bleed, no air

All the plates including the last one is in correctly.

It all worked fine until I put the new clutch disks in and HD springs. I searched everywhere but nobody ever posts their solution.


Thanks
 
@Mitchd43

my idea was the pin #22 is not in the horizontal bearing #31

i had that fault already some years ago at a yamaha fj1200 and i was pretty amazed that the clutch did not work correctly .
if i remember correct the lever felt hard
reason:
the outer pressure plate #16 reached the clutch cover and had by this no more space to go farther outside.

in principle function the busa´s clutch and the fj´s are equal.

the pic below is from a gen1 but gen2´s is very very similar.

btw - little hint:
whenever you have questions tell us wich gen your´e talking about

CLUTCH_(MODELK2,K3).jpg
 
As Frank pointed out above ^ there is a possibilty that it was re-assembled incorrectly.
You asked about the travel on the slave piston. This is irrelevant.It works,or it doesn't. There are varying factors.The pack gets thinner.Old hoses expand more,etc. It dont matter.
So you installed all new heavy springs. You have now stressed a part which in my belief is an already weak link in a Busa. The sprocket cover which houses the slave. You may have cracked it. When going to heavy springs its usually a good idea to install a slave support.
Air. You may think you have it all out. Maybe,maybe not. I always push the piston all the way back in its bore (reverse bleeds) and also eases re-install of the cover. The adjustment lever on yer clutch lever...does it make any difference when the position with the most throw is used?
Unfortunately,it may all have to come apart again.
I'd start with the easiest first thou.
1.chec for air
2. inspect the cover and the rod and the installation of both.Can you feel the cover flex when you pull the clutch lever?
3. pull it apart carefully and methodically (the pack) maybe even taking pics at each step to analysis against whats shown in the manual. It may just jump out at you,that something didn't go back in right.
Personally,I think yer answer will be found before pulling out that stack.
Rubb.
 
Thanks guys.

This is a 2007 gen 1 with very little miles in an off road car.

I have a slave cylinder support bracket on it, always have from day 1.

I took the clutch cover back off and the stack out, everything is in there correctly. I pull the clutch and just don't see the pressure plate move much at all.

There are no leaks from the slave cylinder and I have bleed it many times.

I'm gonna double check the pressire plate isn't hitting the cover. But even with the cover off, it's not moving enough to disengage

I am absolutely, 100% lost.
 
@Mitchd43

if really everthing is at its correct place and the clutch don´t work as it should i have some questions.
sorry i´m a german so i´m a bit confused and eventually miss understand your "disengage" - your clutch still is slipping even master´s lever got free?
or can´t you change gears when motor is running? (clutch engaded?)

when still slipping control the second hole - under the silver blank cap - inside the master´s reservoir if it is blocked / clogged.
- if this 2nd hole is closed the pressure can´t get back from system into reservoir and keeps your clutch slipping.
- if you can´t gear you got air left in the system

@rubbersidedown
thanks for your first 3 lines about what doesn´t matter.:thumbsup:
 
The clutch will not disengage.

I checked it all out again. The pressire plate was hitting the inside of the clutch cover. The stack appears to check out too @ 2 inches.

I cleaned the slave cylinder. If I pull the clutch in while the trans is in gear I can not roll it still. The pressire plate does move when I pull in the clutch, just doesn't seem to be enough. Odd to think my clutch line would all of a sudden get air in it. I will bleed and bleed and see.
 
The clutch will not disengage.(...)

you mean that you can shift with running motor but you can´t drive?

I checked it all out again. The pressire plate was hitting the inside of the clutch cover. (...)

then bleeding won´t help - you definitely made a fault while assembling the clutch itself.
when correctly assembled the plate never can reach the cover!

and messure allways the stack´s height in millimeters not in inches - millimeters are a lot more precise
daumen_hoch01.gif
than inches
thumbdown.gif
!
the absolute minimum of stack height is 50.5 millimeters, will say only one tenth (1/10) mm less and clutch will slip in 99%
 
I already did. It doesn't disengage. With the clutch lever out...the clutch is engaged....with it in, its disengaged. Mine will not disengage.
 
I've taken this thong apart many many times. Stack height is right. I have tried anywjere from 49.5mm to 50.5 mm. Still doesn't change anything. Everything is orientated correctly and in the right spot.


I am curious if my master cylinder is not moving the slave cylinder enough.
 
I've taken this thong apart many many times. Stack height is right. I have tried anywjere from 49.5mm to 50.5 mm. Still doesn't change anything. Everything is orientated correctly and in the right spot.


I am curious if my master cylinder is not moving the slave cylinder enough.
Sounds like the springs are holding the pack together with more force than the fluid trying to push them open. I understand knowing the slave travel length would answer that, but since no one is chiming in with it...maybe swap out half of the HD springs and see if the issue persists?
 
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