SDMS settings

[dreamtheater39]

I've got a bunch of questions on SDMS -
1. Lift control - if set at 1 - how easily does the front wheel come off the ground? And if at 5, does it mean it only lifts to a certain height? Does this mean I set it to something like an 8 and can pop small wheelies?
2. Engine Braking - this seems to make no difference at all. I've set it at off, 1, 2, 3....and shifting to a lower gear does not reduce speed like lower displacement bikes do....what's the best setting to slow the bike down when you shift down to lower gears?
3. Traction control - what situations does this really kick in? Straight line slip, cornering wheel traction loss, braking induced traction loss - does traction control setting intervene in all these situations? Is there any other situation this kicks in?

I've been running a custom user profile with full power, LF at 10, TC at 10....to make sure I have full power with all the nannies watching over me. But many times full power is held back since SDMS predicts traction loss or wheelie situation (LF keeps blinking)....I want to drop LF to a lower number to avoid cutting back of power....but want the safety of the front wheel not taking off....what's the best setting for this?

What settings do you guys use for your aggressive but safe rides?

 

[sixpack577]

Full power, no nannies...All of that control is in your right wrist.
All those rider 'aids' do is diminish rider skills.

 

[dadofthree]

I’ve cut everything I can off, T/C 1 low as it goes. I lay all over my bike, it will still pull the front tire. If it’s rapid ( without control ) I ease off the throttle. My foot never touches the rear brake. Connected on G3, I’ve never had an issue with it. Safe travels, put the miles in watch the cagers.

 

[dreamtheater39]

Rider aid has kept things sane a couple times..... unexpected gravel spill from a truck in a turn, sandy patch while riding in low lighting.....so I'd rather have it on than try to win a medal for riding without it (especially when it's there and works really good!)

Trying to find that sweet spot....not lose too much power and not compromise safety either

 

[kim windsor]

Full power, no nannies...All of that control is in your right wrist.
All those rider 'aids' do is diminish rider skills.

Full power it’s called the twist of the wrist use it or lose !

 

[60+ Busa Rider]

I’m in U1 and have all my nannies turned off except TC is on level 1, if I turn the TC completely off then the TC light on the dash is lit and I prefer it not lit so I set TC to 1 for least effective.

I’m on stock tune and I can lift my front wheel anytime I want in first gear and I weigh 245 pounds. When I first got my GEN three I had lift set to 10 and when I would twist the throttle it would flash LF on the screen.

Engine brake kind of works backwards, 3 is least effective engine braking and off is most effective engine braking, it seems to work best around or above 4000 RPMs. If you have it turned off then the throttle plates will completely close slowing the bike, as you change your settings to one, two or three it seems to keep the throttle plates open just a tad when you let off the throttle allowing to bike the coast. I’ve also noticed that if I’m using engine braking and I barely blip the throttle then it disables EB and starts coasting, you can even hear it in the engine and exhaust when the engine brake disables by blipping the throttle. If I drop a gear when the engine braking is effective than it seems to disable the EB. I may not be 100% correct on everything I just said about the EB but that’s the way mine seems to work.

I had a surprise today while riding 240 miles when I had to get out in traffic at a busy intersection I made a left turn onto the main road with quite a bit of lean and gave it plenty of throttle but the IMU took over and I could feel the power pull back and as I stood the bike straight up the power snapped back all at once and actually wrenched my back, those kind of surprises catch you off guard.

 

[SS4Luck]

FWIW I tried something once with my bike

When I had everything off I could make 40 roll hits in 1st gear and the front wheel would stay 100% on the ground, it would just uncompress the sag in the front forks on the initial hit.
With LF at 3, the front wheel still wouldn't come up, but the bike would cut power cuz it assumed it was going to.
(when I did this I had a swinger and the suspension had be re spring and setup for my weight and riding style)
The aids are very invasive, as they are kind of designed to be as such. I never had TC on because I deleted my rear brake/abs very early on. Go out on a road you know is good and low traffic and play around with the settings to see what your comfortable with turning off/lowering. Im with everyone else though, on a dry road having everything off is usually the best course of action.

 

[dreamtheater39]

Thanks all for the inputs. One more question... In A mode, is it possible to lift the front wheel (clutch or power wheelie) and how much of an effort is it.... And how high does the wheel come off the ground?

 

[sixpack577]

lol
little effort
and as high as you want it

 

[sixpack577]

It's nothing to be afraid of.
The wheel will float up on it's own under hard throttle, but you have to make it.
It is very easy to manage.
Busa wheelies also are a little easier to handle than alot of other bikes, just because the weight moves around a little slower, vs say a 1000 that's 150+ lbs lighter.
And, if you start doing power wheelies, they will be fun...but costly.
If you rev out wheelies until the front drops, the fork seals won't last long.
You have to learn to set them down easily, which can be done from even very high and long wheelies.

 

[dreamtheater39]

Floating up sounds manageable....the unexpected wheel taking off....not so fun! With the nannies on I shift between 8-10k revs....will the front wheel be airborne at these revs?

 

[sixpack577]

Floating up sounds manageable....the unexpected wheel taking off....not so fun! With the nannies on I shift between 8-10k revs....will the front wheel be airborne at these revs?

With the Quickshifter, the tire will still come up, which can be quick itself at times, but the QS makes the shift seemless, so there isn't an on/off/on shock of power like shifting with the clutch.
If you're roll racing, or rolling on it at speed, you will be fine.
If you are launching the bike from a stop, or get on it hard in 1st, the tire is going to start lifting at around 6k rpm.
This can be easily managed by rolling out of the throttle just a little(always avoid rapidly closing the throttle whenever possible, unless you are in Full control before hand), but, if you hold it, you better know how to ride standup wheelies, because the bike will jump right up under that throttle alone without any clutch effort, and will just loop you into the road if you continue to hold it.
But, as said originally, it's all in the wrist.
Don't rush into it, build up to it, and don't be afraid of it, just relax and rip it, and run it harder and harder as your skill and confidence grow.