REMOVING GEN II Right Side Cowling


Seasoned Beef
Donating Member
what a mother removing the cowl! great presentation given but i wish the guy could of showed the locations of each push pin because the manual gives you the "vague version" of there locations. this took me a while to figure it out and i almost wanted to kick my own bike over in frustration. bottom line is, i need alot of practice to get this down and i don't regret doing it myself. :whistle:
Yeah, I missed the one behind the front tire :laugh:


Seasoned Beef
Donating Member
Well I should have read the entire thread :whistle: before doing the job. Next time will even be easier. :bowdown:

Big D

Okay folks, you don't have to remove the 10mm bolt on the bottom of the fairing for it to come off! That 10mm bolt holds the metal clip with the rubber gromment attached to it in place. Pull on the fairing and it will pop right out.

I've had mine off a few times, and haven't removed this bolt on either side.



The powerpoint was great...just need to add the last 2 push pins. there is one directly under the front right turn signal and another further back that connects the inner fairing to the outer. once you pull these the fairing will come right off.


Thanks for the presentations. Baffling dis-assembly especially having removed all the pins and allen bolts only to find the fairing won't budge. Parting the fairing joint at the base and then unclipping the black plastic cowling around the base and radiator started to get things moving. The final peeling away of the fairing at the top is plain worrying until it snaps free!


Thank you, this really helped.

I too had a difficult time locating all the push pins. Also had a hard time making out the pictures in the owner's manual. The ones that I recall were:

2 located underneath front of the chin (on bottom of bike, facing down -Mythos)
1 located on chin in front of radiator (don't know that this one had to be removed, but did anyway) (Yeah, take it out. -Mythos)
1 inside fender well (small one, right side) (use a tiny hex wrench to press the center dot down and it will pop free -Mythos)
1 up near the steering neck
2 in front of the rear tire (rectifier area, as mentioned in the ppt) (Yes, the belly pan must come off. Do this first and do use the flat of a screwdriver to press the point out from behind -Mythos)
These remarks were most helpful. I added a couple details that I thought might help other first timers.

Dobbieman's comments and photos on p 2 (Post #22) about the location of the grommets is also vital to doing this job the first time. If you do not know what a grommet is, it is a rubber sleeve that a pointed projection molded to the back of the plastic pops into. These must be pulled free.

As far as unhooking the plastics all around the edges, all I can say is carefully wiggle it free. I'm sure it will get easier as we do this a number of times. The top corner by the hand grip is the biggest beotch but you will figure it out.

Getting all those tabs to line up for re-installation should be interesting.


Having put it all together again next time I remove the fairing I will do it differently. I would remove all bolts and push-pin fittings except those at the very rear underside by the 'fishtail' at the rectifier. Then I would aim to remove the front interior wheel-well side panels (photo of panels attached) by unclipping them at the sides above the leading edge of the belly pan followed by unclipping and lifting out the belly pan. The two large fairing halves would then be separated at the front and free to move except at the very rear if you unplug from the lower fairing grommets.

At this point I will see if it is possible to get the Suzuki filter wrench on the filter to remove & replace it. Not sure if it will work but I can't believe dealers remove the fairing on oil changes because it takes too long, risks fairing damage and involves some patient re-assembly - this is not clever design.

I was going to have a go for a bit of a challenge but the thought of going through a whole oil change for a bit of R&D - well it can wait till the next service interval.

2nd Oil Change 017.jpg

2nd Oil Change 009.jpg

2nd Oil Change 010.jpg


Note the small holes in the 3 black belly pan parts - this is where you find the push pins when you shove your head behind the wheel with a 250 watt inspection lamp!


Hit edit, cut the whole thing and then write something else. That's the only way to cover your tracks. Once you enter, there is no way out. :laugh:


did an oil change this weekend

4230mi on the bike

thanks to the poster for pic by pic guide, it was a lifesaver

but MAN, what a PITA

i ended up taking the dash apart also cuz i didn't want to scratch up the fairngs when trying to remove them

had to remove the oil cooler line, cuz the akro make the removal area too small.

got a K&N oil filter
Castrol R4 4T 5w-40

shifting is much smoother now, will prolly goto 10w-40 after spring or 4000mi


Donating Member
ALL I GOT TO SUZUKI!!!!! WAY TO GO......sorry i had to vent..did my first oil change yesterday.....HOLY FN......on my first gen i get it done in less than 20 took ME 1HOUR!!!!!!! done :cussing:


great job! if i understand right the service manual reference about removal of right side cowling is waste of time? (removal first 2 extra pieces:body cowling cover + right inner under cowling) or somehow with these xtra pieces off the job is easier? ???
(i have already nightmares!)


Anyone have any trouble getting the upper plastic pin back into place after reassembling the right cowl piece? This is the only one I had trouble with. Almost took a hammer to it -- but thankfully, a cooler head prevailed!

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