rear shock adjustment

[Bumblebee]

Just like @sixpack577 said, there's no way you should be able to compress that rear shock so easily just by hand...

I can only imagine how bouncy it is with you and a passenger on it......

The Fox shock might be able to be rebuilt with new oil and then the stronger spring would make it better....at least you would have a remote reservoir to make it easier to adjust on the fly....

[Kiwi Rider]

Just like @sixpack577 said, there's no way you should be able to compress that rear shock so easily just by hand...

I can only imagine how bouncy it is with you and a passenger on it......

The Fox shock might be able to be rebuilt with new oil and then the stronger spring would make it better....at least you would have a remote reservoir to make it easier to adjust on the fly....

Yes, it looks pretty soft on the compression of the shock, and it appears to even have a little bit of rebound damping at the end of it's upward stroke . . so adding more compression clicks and a few more rebound clicks may improve the damping . . but the spring is way under the appropriate weight that it should be.

The big question is . . is that shock even the correct fitment for a Busa, from the range of Fox shocks available?
I mean, if it's meant for a lighter bike, the valving shim stacks and piston porting will not be suitable and that's without the consideration of the spring selected and fitted to that shock.

Heck.. I was always of the thinking that Fox shocks were strictly for dirt bikes.
But after looking at their website and the range of shocks they have available, it appears that is not the case, and they do supply shocks for road bikes and sport bikes too!

Probably would be easier and cheaper just to fit a good used low miles OEM rear shock and upgrade the spring to allow for the extra leverage that the longer swingarm has and also for a passenger, and just ditch that Fox shock altogether.
I tend to think outside of the box when I'm looking for an efficient solution to aq problem. . that's the Kiwi in me coming out lol.

What's your thoughts on my 'elegant' (lol) solution @sixpack577 ?

[Kiwi Rider]

I have a friend that bought a GSXR1000K6 as a private sale, and it had a YSS rear shock fitted.
The spring was way too hard, banging and crashing over the rough road surfaces.
The coil wire diameter was huge and the coil spacing was wide too.
Luckily, and thankfully, the guy threw in the original OEM shock with stock spring fitted and only 30k kms on it, so after a discussion with my mate, who was hesitant to change the shocks over because he had this mistaken belief that the YSS was a better shock than OEM, and I had to inform him that the spring was way too heavy, we switched shocks on the K6.

Well. . . that solved all the handling issues in the rear, once I'd set the sag and the comp/rebound clickers to the proper positions for his weight and riding style. (FAST) lol.

Then, there was the front end... what a nightmare.
Someone had been in there and had not set the measurement of the Fork cap on the cartridge piston rod threads to 12mm ( I think from memory) on one fork leg, this had the effect of only allowing the fork cap clicker (rebound) to have a 5 click range instead of 23 or whatever it was.

We corrected that issue also, and changed the fork oil and seals too.
It had heavy weight oil in it too, probably 15W, and the level was too high as well. Changed it to 5W.Set the level correctly.
Set the front forks to standard settings on the comp/rebound and preload, it was a completely different bike to ride!!
He was very very happy!

People that have no idea, often play with technical stuff they should never be allowed anywhere near.

[sixpack577]

Yes, it looks pretty soft on the compression of the shock, and it appears to even have a little bit of rebound damping at the end of it's upward stroke . . so adding more compression clicks and a few more rebound clicks may improve the damping . . but the spring is way under the appropriate weight that it should be.

The big question is . . is that shock even the correct fitment for a Busa, from the range of Fox shocks available?
I mean, if it's meant for a lighter bike, the valving shim stacks and piston porting will not be suitable and that's without the consideration of the spring selected and fitted to that shock.

Heck.. I was always of the thinking that Fox shocks were strictly for dirt bikes.
But after looking at their website and the range of shocks they have available, it appears that is not the case, and they do supply shocks for road bikes and sport bikes too!

Probably would be easier and cheaper just to fit a good used low miles OEM rear shock and upgrade the spring to allow for the extra leverage that the longer swingarm has and also for a passenger, and just ditch that Fox shock altogether.
I tend to think outside of the box when I'm looking for an efficient solution to aq problem. . that's the Kiwi in me coming out lol.

What's your thoughts on my 'elegant' (lol) solution @sixpack577 ?

I think that's what he's doing, as it's a good idea.
I 'm not a stretch guy, so to get the ride just right, I'de farm it out.
Aftermarket rear shocks with remote preload are $800-$1200 average for a good street setup, and built for your weight and application.
That simplifies things, as I can find nowhere that can charge a nitrogen shock anymore, as none of the car dealers anywhere near me have it any longer.
And the cost for me to buy nitrogen in a tank isn't worth it for one shock, or even several.
As much as I'de like to delve deeper into suspension, it just isn't cost effective for me.
I'm going to buy a good rear shock from somewhere like Traxxion Dynamics, and get new springs and valving for my forks, for my '03 Gsxr1k

[Oz22]

That vid reminded me of the day I was replacing the shocks on my work truck -long ago- I'd taken the front ones off and then discovered the new ones were a wrong part so I put the wheels back on and went to drive it down the road. Big mistake!

[zeepopo2]

i just ordered a heavy duty super spring .
gonna put it on that stock shock i reckon

Set your compression to full hard and try again. It's does seem to have some rebound in it so it's dampening somewhat. Let's see how it looks with compression screwed in all the way. The link on the the rear might not be oem. The way the rear suspension works on a rising rate link is that the deeper you go on the stroke the harder it becomes, unlike a linear rate link who Is at constant force regardless of the stroke. Someone might have reshimmed your shock, or it might have been made for a lighter bike. Compression in all the way will answer that question. Also take a photo of the shock linkage. It's at the bottom of the shock. It might not be oem which would explain a lot.

[Noon]

Yes, it looks pretty soft on the compression of the shock, and it appears to even have a little bit of rebound damping at the end of it's upward stroke . . so adding more compression clicks and a few more rebound clicks may improve the damping . . but the spring is way under the appropriate weight that it should be.

The big question is . . is that shock even the correct fitment for a Busa, from the range of Fox shocks available?
I mean, if it's meant for a lighter bike, the valving shim stacks and piston porting will not be suitable and that's without the consideration of the spring selected and fitted to that shock.

Heck.. I was always of the thinking that Fox shocks were strictly for dirt bikes.
But after looking at their website and the range of shocks they have available, it appears that is not the case, and they do supply shocks for road bikes and sport bikes too!

Probably would be easier and cheaper just to fit a good used low miles OEM rear shock and upgrade the spring to allow for the extra leverage that the longer swingarm has and also for a passenger, and just ditch that Fox shock altogether.
I tend to think outside of the box when I'm looking for an efficient solution to aq problem. . that's the Kiwi in me coming out lol.

What's your thoughts on my 'elegant' (lol) solution @sixpack577 ?

i cant find much info on this particular shock . its a fox racing shox twin clicker .https://www.newportcycleparts.com/categories/suspension/fox_shocks.htm i found one here but still not telling much about it .

and thank you , i did order a stock busa shock which i forgot to mention and am going to put that heavy duty super spring on there when they come in.
reckon i might try and sell the fox shock on ebay or keep as a souvenir .. i don't think they make them anymore

[Noon]

Set your compression to full hard and try again. It's does seem to have some rebound in it so it's dampening somewhat. Let's see how it looks with compression screwed in all the way. The link on the the rear might not be oem. The way the rear suspension works on a rising rate link is that the deeper you go on the stroke the harder it becomes, unlike a linear rate link who Is at constant force regardless of the stroke. Someone might have reshimmed your shock, or it might have been made for a lighter bike. Compression in all the way will answer that question. Also take a photo of the shock linkage. It's at the bottom of the shock. It might not be oem which would explain a lot.

will do , just a moment

[Noon]

Set your compression to full hard and try again. It's does seem to have some rebound in it so it's dampening somewhat. Let's see how it looks with compression screwed in all the way. The link on the the rear might not be oem. The way the rear suspension works on a rising rate link is that the deeper you go on the stroke the harder it becomes, unlike a linear rate link who Is at constant force regardless of the stroke. Someone might have reshimmed your shock, or it might have been made for a lighter bike. Compression in all the way will answer that question. Also take a photo of the shock linkage. It's at the bottom of the shock. It might not be oem which would explain a lot.

[Noon]

i dialed the adjuster on the bottom all the way in to make it more stiff . the second adjuster on the can has a knob with 8 clicks / notches , however it is able to turn / clicks past that 8 marker so im unsure if it is now at a correct 8 or not .

[Noon]

Set your compression to full hard and try again. It's does seem to have some rebound in it so it's dampening somewhat. Let's see how it looks with compression screwed in all the way. The link on the the rear might not be oem. The way the rear suspension works on a rising rate link is that the deeper you go on the stroke the harder it becomes, unlike a linear rate link who Is at constant force regardless of the stroke. Someone might have reshimmed your shock, or it might have been made for a lighter bike. Compression in all the way will answer that question. Also take a photo of the shock linkage. It's at the bottom of the shock. It might not be oem which would explain a lot.

[sixpack577]

View attachment 1680666

That's a stock lower shock linkage with non adjustable aftermarket lowering links.

[Noon]

That's a stock lower shock linkage with non adjustable aftermarket lowering links.

but there's three holes wouldn't that make them adjustable ?i honestly don't know I'm just asking

[BigBSBusa]

but there's three holes wouldn't that make them adjustable ?or am i looking at the wrong part ? i honestly don't know I'm just asking

They are adjustable links currently set at the lowest setting.

[Noon]

ahhh ok i see thanks .
will this interfere with the stock shock when i go to put it on ? will i be able to keep it at that setting ? i kind of like how low it sits

[BigBSBusa]

ahhh ok i see thanks .
will this interfere with the stock shock when i go to put it on ? will i be able to keep it at that setting ? i kind of like how low it sits

I can't say with 100% certainty, but don't think you will have an issue. I have the same links with a stock spring, though they are at the highest setting.

[zeepopo2]

i dialed the adjuster on the bottom all the way in to make it more stiff . the second adjuster on the can has a knob with 8 clicks / notches , however it is able to turn / clicks past that 8 marker so im unsure if it is now at a correct 8 or not .

Lol well....you adjusted rebound to be very slow lol. Rear shock is reverse of front forks. Rear lower setting is rebound, upper setting is compresion.

[Noon]

Lol well....you adjusted rebound to be very slow lol. Rear shock is reverse of front forks. Rear lower setting is rebound, upper setting is compresion.

lmao ill try it again man , thanks for letting me know

[Noon]

so when you say upper setting your referring to the clicker on the can then right ?

[Noon]

the bottom default is 10 clicks out from where it is now , i was able to find a manual!! its only a few pages tho . i think the manual goes to this shock . im not a 100% tho