Need help removing Cluster

euroR

Registered
I am about to install the HID lights, anyone have good photos of removing the gauge cluster. And can I install it with only removing side top plastics on the air scoop, the windscreen and gauge cluster?
 
Installing your HID's is so much easier by removing the front fairing.....I'd go that route rather than down through the gauges.
 
Installing your HID's is so much easier by removing the front fairing.....I'd go that route rather than down through the gauges.

Seems like too much work. Looks much less work involved to remove the cluster than whole front, but if its easyer I would. Just need photos and directions.
 
Not arguing, but I thought it was easier and quicker to take out the guages, was quick and easy. The only thing that was iffy, was removing the plastic trim over the guages. Being that it snaps in place, and learning how to remove it with fear of breaking it. After I got it out, it seems like it can take alot of abuse.
HIDs are an easy install, no matter how you prefer to do it.
 
Definitely easier, especially if you have a kit that requires some sealing up of the low beam like the DDM kits do. I find it almost contortionist work to manipulate hands around that area without the front end pulled off.

While you're in there you can clean out all the little pebbles that fling up there while riding. Can't help you on photos. Run a search on plastics removal, something might pop up.
 
I can see that side of it too, depends how big your hands are. I also removed the plastic under the nose(the one with the 6 snap/push connectors) made it easy to reach the hi beam.
 
thanks guys I will take my time sunday and go from there. I will keep Blanca's directions close and my dad will help. I want to do it my self to save $75 to have them installed. I should be ok.
 
If done from the top, 2 plastic trim pieces per side, 1 over and 1 under the guages. Guages held in by 2 bolts. Windshield isn't removed. Plastic under nose (if u choose), 6 push/snap connectors.
Don't be afraid to grab hold of the piece over the guages. Pull straight out from one side, then the other, it's just snapped in place, nothing is behind it, no screws.
WarbirdII also posted how he stacked his ballasts on the right ram air tube. This is what I did, zip tied them to it, clear the trim too when u reinstall it.
Also, if u remove the plastic piece under the nose, u can easily reach the bolt to adjust the headlight. Turn one way to raise, obviously the other way to lower. And you can't aim them independently, the whole headlight assembly moves together.
It's a simple job, you shouldn't have any real problems, hope all goes well.
 
I went in through the gage cluster, it is a bit tight if you have large hands, and would have been easier to take the nose off since i did the DDM kit, sealing was a bit of a pain. All together only about 3 hrs from start to finish including the wiring and placemtent of the switch (gave up on the TDR). Luckily i didn't need to re-aim the new headlight as it lined up almost perfectly with the where the original did.
 
Is this a Gen 1 or Gen 2? If it is a Gen 1 you can pull the gauge cluster and do it that way not a problem. Gen 1 is also adjustable independitly.
I have HUGE hands as some members can attest to. I had no problems going through the gauges to install on Velociraptors. If you need pictures PM me and I will pull mine apart and take pictures and send them to you. About a 20 minute job for real.
 
I have a Gen 2, so thanks everyone it helped a lot, I started at 4pm and finished 730pm after I had dinner. Both posts on removing cluster and installing was extremly helpful. I do have to go back in there is few wires that may catch in the steering damper. But other than that HOLY **** BATMAN they are bright. Its pouring outside but i saw from my garage how far they fire. And I did both high and lowbeams. Cant wait to try them out, and I saved $75 now I can buy my dog food lol and gas for the bike and car till next paycheck.
 
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