Just bought a gen 2

@rubbersidedown

here a pic of my buddy´s german street legal gen1 turbo (with unofficially around 380-420 hp
and the mounted air filter
inside the fairing / no cuts for it at all in the fairing :shocked:
DSC_0066.JPG

look at its size - it is less than 1/3 of your´s, i guess, and def. no stress with emaciation or "overfatting" of the mixture (due to the filter) for sure - i control its sparks every 1500 - 2000 km and they are in best conditions.
 
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@Berlin Germany , K&N recommends a blow job at 25K miles,then a clean/re-oil at 55K miles. IDK man. Suzuki says replace the OEM filter at 11K miles (your PDF). How much air is getting thru a dirty filter at 25K miles ?
I like my A/F ratio to be pretty precise. My motor was built up and a K&N installed on day one. It was dyno tuned. Runs mint. How would it be running with a filter that has 25K miles of dirt attached to it? Then at 55K miles it needs a "deep clean" and re-oil.View attachment 1629642 Because of the material they are made of,I dont think it hurts to clean them often. They do filtrate better with microscopic particles attached,but not thick road dirt,bugs,etc.
@Andy92 if yer not a fan of a re-usable filter,perhaps pass it on to a mate,they last a lifetime and some riders love 'em. They cost what 60 pound over there?
Rubb.
Rubb,

My thoughts exactly!

Check out 'project farm air filter test' on YouTube.

He compares k&n with fram, purilator 1 and a bunch of other brands. The results in the filtration test is frightening.

A new fresh k&n certainly has potential for power gains through lower intake resistance, but in my opinion, the lower the resistance - the worse the filtration.

As I'm riding on mixed roads 3-5k miles per year i don't think its worth using a k&n, whats 3-5hp going to do on a 190+hp bike on the public roads.

Very little other than put your engine at risk.

Another thing I noticed what the amount of gunk and grime under that wirey sponge and the back of the airbox. Probably from all the 'recharger' oil, that cant do your intake much good and probably clogs up intake sensor and could lead to trouble.

Id much prefer to use a stock filter and replace it every other year.

My dad had an old SRAD 750 with a yoshimura TRS full system, he cleaned the k&n and went for a ride, later that month he decided to try a stock filter and reported louder induction roar and improved midrange.

So for real world riding, I cant see a k&n being worth the risk with regards to engine protection.

On a drag strip trying to get into the high 9s, yes use a k&n.

When I hold the filter up again light I can see gaps about the thickness of a pen tip. Cant be good.

What I would say is, if you must use a k&n, the recharger cleaning method is nowhere near adequate, spraying it with an industrial cleaner and rinsing with cold water wont get half the dirt out. I did 2 thorough passes with the detergent then decided to delicately use a plastic panel removal tool and a towel to get the rest of the dirt out.

See the photo Attached.

About 10 flies and tonnes of black dirt.

My next job is to check the clutch bolts. Not sure if they'd have come loose by now already but worth checking for peace of mind...

Screenshot_20201116-114230_Gallery.jpg
 
Rubb,

My thoughts exactly!

Check out 'project farm air filter test' on YouTube.

He compares k&n with fram, purilator 1 and a bunch of other brands. The results in the filtration test is frightening.

A new fresh k&n certainly has potential for power gains through lower intake resistance, but in my opinion, the lower the resistance - the worse the filtration.

As I'm riding on mixed roads 3-5k miles per year i don't think its worth using a k&n, whats 3-5hp going to do on a 190+hp bike on the public roads.

Very little other than put your engine at risk.

Another thing I noticed what the amount of gunk and grime under that wirey sponge and the back of the airbox. Probably from all the 'recharger' oil, that cant do your intake much good and probably clogs up intake sensor and could lead to trouble.

Id much prefer to use a stock filter and replace it every other year.

My dad had an old SRAD 750 with a yoshimura TRS full system, he cleaned the k&n and went for a ride, later that month he decided to try a stock filter and reported louder induction roar and improved midrange.

So for real world riding, I cant see a k&n being worth the risk with regards to engine protection.

On a drag strip trying to get into the high 9s, yes use a k&n.

When I hold the filter up again light I can see gaps about the thickness of a pen tip. Cant be good.

What I would say is, if you must use a k&n, the recharger cleaning method is nowhere near adequate, spraying it with an industrial cleaner and rinsing with cold water wont get half the dirt out. I did 2 thorough passes with the detergent then decided to delicately use a plastic panel removal tool and a towel to get the rest of the dirt out.

See the photo Attached.

About 10 flies and tonnes of black dirt.

My next job is to check the clutch bolts. Not sure if they'd have come loose by now already but worth checking for peace of mind...

View attachment 1629674
Interesting enough, K&N made the air filters for our tanks in Afghanistan..they did extensive trials and found the K&Ns to be performing above standard...for anyone who has been to Afghanistan will remember the baby-powder sand there...it gets into everything and anything.

If they can use them on tanks in a war zone and they worked to that level, the one I have in my bike will stay there.
 
@Andy92

lots of theory but at first view no experiances in real

see 1st what bee wrote about the sandy / dusty region he was.

and then try a permanent filter like k&n yourselve and see what will happen - i tell ya - nothing - no loss of power even after 40 000 km and no matter at what kind of bike carbs or injections this filter is used.

the filtration is as well as at the paper´s.

if one built in a permanent filter he/she should mark the date somewhere ;) to remember 2, 3 ,4 years later to blow the filter - i did so not to forget.

this are my personal experiences and same by lots of others i know.

that is a fact. sorry ;)
 
@rubbersidedown

here a pic of my buddy´s german street legal gen1 turbo (with unofficially around 380-420 hp
and the mounted air filter
inside the fairing / no cuts for it at all in the fairing :shocked:
View attachment 1629673
look at its size - it is less than 1/3 of your´s, i guess, and def. no stress with emaciation or "overfatting" of the mixture (due to the filter) for sure - i control its sparks every 1500 - 2000 km and they are in best conditions.
@Berlin Germany ...Frank...I'll be frank...I just have a giant air filter,big turbo,stretched arm and ridiculous 330 back tire to compensate for the fact that......















I have a small wee wee.
Rubb.
 
@Andy92

lots of theory but at first view no experiances in real

see 1st what bee wrote about the sandy / dusty region he was.

and then try a permanent filter like k&n yourselve and see what will happen - i tell ya - nothing - no loss of power even after 40 000 km and no matter at what kind of bike carbs or injections this filter is used.

the filtration is as well as at the paper´s.

if one built in a permanent filter he/she should mark the date somewhere ;) to remember 2, 3 ,4 years later to blow the filter - i did so not to forget.

this are my personal experiences and same by lots of others i know.

that is a fact. sorry ;)
...and not to mention the team with the tanks were your fellow countrymen so they were very intimate with how these Leopards would respond with the K&N filters..
 
Back to black wheels.
Fork rebuild.
New wheel bearings
calipers cleaned.
Brake and clutch bleed.
Metzeler Roadtec 01se rubber.
Need to check the dreaded clutch pressure plate bolts so I have a new gasket ready.
Cant imagine after 12 years and 28k miles the bolts wouldn't have either been recalled or damaged the engine by now, but only one way to be sure.
Then all thats left is oil and coolant change and ready for spring riding.
20210201_160313.jpg
 
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