Is there a way to .............

Don Hardcastle

Busa Ridin' Sailor (ret)
Donating Member
Registered
Subtract a little fuel globally on the PCIIIUSB. As many of you know my bike is running nasty rich w/significantly less HP than it should. I was thinking if there was a way that I could make a single adjustment to subtract just a little bit of fuel across the board. The A/F graph is straight and level across the board.

Any inputs?

Don
 
Stand by to stand by don
laugh.gif
Kidding, someone should answer shortly. But even tho I don't have a PC3, I was looking at some A/F charts and dyno charts and reading up....I don't think it should be a straight line all the way across. But this is just what I know. Someone should know what to recommend.
 
(usn04limited @ Oct. 04 2006,20:13) Subtract a little fuel globally on the PCIIIUSB.  As many of you know my bike is running nasty rich w/significantly less HP than it should.  I was thinking if there was a way that I could make a single adjustment to subtract just a little bit of fuel across the board.  The A/F graph is straight and level across the board.

Any inputs?

Don
Don,

I'm betting your A/F is straight across at full throttle only. Where is is rich is at partial throttle openings. Do a bit of searching for someone that has a map with the same setup and I'll think you'll be a bit closer.
 
Not sure what the preferred ratio on a Busa is, but my PCIII'd Aprilia likes as close to 13:1 ratio, as possible, (note here, that this also depends upon the fuel you use - here in Oz we have 98 RON octane, as the highest octane rated pump fuel). Also there is no "global" reduction method that I know of. I have in the past on my Aprilia's map, just gone and just changed each value on the map. More so down low, ie below 2500rpm, where my map was running too rich. It's a bit of trial and error unfortunately, or take it to another Dyno/operator and get them to re do the custom map, to see if better results can be had.

I don't have a PCIII on the Busa, but I'm assuming that the maps and how they are accessed would be very similar.

Hope this might steer you in the right direction.

cool.gif
 
Got it from the Power Commander's instructions.
==================================
You can also adjust your Power Commander using the face
plate buttons as described below.
1) With the ignition off, hold down all three buttons on the
Power Commander II unit.
2) While still holding down the buttons, turn the ignition on.
3) Release buttons.
4) Select the range you wish to adjust: Low, Med, High, by
pushing the corresponding button once.
5) At this point holding that button down will move the lights
down ( leaning out the mixture).
6) Pushing the button repeatedly will move the light up
(richening the mixture).
7) When the two center light are lit up this is the “0â€￾ setting.After making your adjustments wait 20 seconds before starting
the bike or turning it off. This allows the settings to be saved to
memory. To verify that it is safe to start the bike, move the
throttle and watch to see if the lights move up and down the
scale. If they do, you may start or turn off the bike.
==========================================
Try dropping each range a bar or 2.

Also I heard all dynos show a properly tuned bike as being rich. This is due to the fact that the dyno doesn't account for the ram-air effect. When riding in the real world the bike is getting more air than it is sitting on a dyno, so it will in turn lean out that richness. I'm not sure if that's true or not but it seems to make sense.
 
True on AFR you dont want a "flat" line. You want the AFR to ramp richer (down to 12.4:1 or so) at peak Torque and then lean out (up to around 13.1:1) at peak HP, this provides the best power at each point. And yes you must take into account the ram-air effect, and whether the dyno is load-bearing or not. If the dyno is not load bearing you want it to be richer than that on the rollers, so when it hits the street full weight your not running lean.
I agree with getting it set up and dialed in. With the way these bikes row thru the rpms it would be scary if you took a hair too much fuel out in a spot and didnt know it. GL.
 
I have decided that I am not going to mess with the map. I am going to pull the TRE and run the bike again. This winter I will probably be doing cams and the PC ignition module. This coming fall I will get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. That is the safest bet.

Don
 
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