Ignition removal 2012 Hayabusa

SavageRock

SavageRock

Registered
Good Day everybody.

My ignition became sticky over time and the grooves on my key were wearing. Due to my resistance to getting a new key, simply because the old one was red, to match her of course... Has now broken off and I am now in the middle of the ignition swap... Something that should've been quick, has now morphed into a two-day ordeal! I have pulled the triple tree off to the part where you are supposed to be able to separate the bracket from around the top of the forks, but the thing won't budge. Its supposed to slide off once you release the pressure around the forks giving you access to the ignition cylinder right? Are there screws somewhere on the bottom holding the bracket to the bike?
 
Hi there mate , welcome to the org , I recently swapped out my stock set up for a custom triple clamp . I removed everything to expose my standard triple clamp , then loosened all bolts and steering nut and lifted it up and off . The ignition was still attached and restrictive access and movement , but managed to carefully get the star head bolts removed , freeing the ignition and some more access . The mounted plastic ignition cap , has to be unbolted , and if like mine fitted with immobilizer , then the wiring has to be somehow separated from the actual cap , for the wiring passes throuh the triple clamp ignition locating ring . Now , I did use both front and rear stands to allow the bike to sit upright and no weight whatsoever on fork , this makes it easier for certain .
Hope this helps .
Toad
 
Thanks that explains a lot. I kind of thought that may make a difference. But wasn't sure. Luckily along with this starting this project on that same day (Saturday) I cleaned up my garage that morning and unearthed the front stand(which I very rarely used).
I'll give that a shot and see how I fare. Looks like I'll be back at it tomorrow after work.


Thanks again
 
Also when you say "everything" Do you mean the whole instrument cluster and panels etc.
If so, then that makes the job that much more tedious.

**praying** Please say no Please say no please say no.....**praying**
 
No , not instruments , just the top bar handle bar plate and whatever needed there like bar switch gear or even remove bar itself first , to give yourself max room . Then , 2nd , the top triple clamp , and because of ignition wiring length , the room to work is a bit awkward . You can remove the screen if you want more room to spare . Look on youtube for screen removal tutorial , thinking there is one . I will keep an eye out on this thread , see how you go okay .
 
Relieving the pressure on the forks paid off. I got the final part of the triple tree off and now I'm looking at the screws and EVERYTHING is just as you said Toad the wire routing and the whole shebang. SPOT on for accurate advice man. BUUUUUUUT the "tamper Proof" Screws securing the ignition to the bracket are supposed to be 40mm. I am using a 40mm tamper tip and it doesn't seem to be fitting securely enough to grip the screw and remove it. The next size down is a 30mm and its too small and the next size up is too big...

My ask of you or someone who has done this is: What tip did you use to remove those damn ignition screws?
 
Mind you these screws have never been removed so there is no chance of prior "stripping" of the head or the grooves...But clearly, something is NOT matching up.
 
To be honest , I can't remember what the bolt heads actually were for ignition mount , and can't find any I think were the ones , and I did replace the bolts holding my ignition with ti examples . Now I did find dome heads 20mm long thread with fitting for torx bit 40 , with a centre hole in bit . Think they are the ones from stock set up after all . Don't forget , they are held in with red loctite , so put force directly down the guts of bolt while turning .
 
Gotcha. Im completely dumb-founded here the 40 is too small and the 45 is too big the 1/4 bit you refer to is the drive but not the tip correct?
Im pretty good at guaging bits off sight im the guy who says pass me the ----- and it usually fits.
I figured 40mm and it SEEMED like the right tip but no dice... The 45mm is the next size up in my kit and the tip is WAY big... Ive never heard of a 42mm but it seems like i need something BETWEEN the 40 and 45mm tip....
 
SavageRock said:
Gotcha. Im completely dumb-founded here the 40 is too small and the 45 is too big the 1/4 bit you refer to is the drive but not the tip correct?
Im pretty good at guaging bits off sight im the guy who says pass me the ----- and it usually fits.
I figured 40mm and it SEEMED like the right tip but no dice... The 45mm is the next size up in my kit and the tip is WAY big... Ive never heard of a 42mm but it seems like i need something BETWEEN the 40 and 45mm tip....
Click to expand...

Has the 40 torx bit got the hollow centre hole to allow for the pin in bolt head ? Wonder if something has been messed with , or that US models are just different ? Also are torx available in imperial ?? and this is a re-thread or something ? Got me stuffed !! My bit is has EXR.140 written on it , it's a facom bit ( metric French tool ) . Should off seen this earlier , but I can't see real good up close !!
 
Last edited:
Yes sir it does have the hollow tip.It’s never been messed with. It says IPR40 70-071. It also says S40 on the side of the tip.


I can’t figure it out either
 
I can't say its a super tight fit , but that is the one I think I would of used . Now just found a T 40 Bit thats a good fit , but also a T 35 that fits , feels almost usable , but do not wan't to fully back it . Go on down to tool shop , see what they got , tell them the torx you are looking for are around T 40 .
 
GUESS WHAT?!?

T40 is EXACTLY what its supposed to be you are CORRECT and so was I in my initial eyeball measurement.....But are you ready for this @ROADTOAD1340 ? Its a 6 point NOT a 5 point star like the set I was trying to use... (hence the poor fit)

It looks like the wire harness on my new part from China is shorter than the stock wire harness, so there may be some wire cutting/crimping in my night's work.. Where did your harness end for the ignition? Was the end connection under the nose or somewhere further back near the side of the airbox?
 
Its all torn down now & the ignition is free from the bracket, now its just a matter of trying to find the plug connection WITHOUT stripping my Bird Lady down to her UnderWear, and my showing up to work on ppl shiny PCs with bags under my eyes and road grime under my nails!!:crazy:

"No maam I DIDNT put those oily fingerprints on your touch screen"
 
Don't know , because once I got where you are , I just had to put custom set up on . Good chance it goes off under the top fairing , see if you can trace it easily . You can pop the tank up using the rod stand , and have a look if you think it goes back that way . I have removed my top fairing a few times , but never to trace wire , only top fairing replacement . Was the new part not oem ?
You might have to remove all the fairing and inner panels including the instrument surround , to get to plug if in the fairing . Time consuming , but something good to learn , not going to be done well when tired out thou bro .
 
Had a look , now definitely goes forward to the front of bike , but may not actually go to front of fairing , but possibly to the left side plastic inner panel area . The inner panels are 5 piece overall , with 3 pieces counting instrument surround , and the other two either side of fairing sides . So we maybe able to just get away with left side fairing removal , then the next smaller plastic panel removal , and leave the instrument panel and top fairing . This will expose the main fuse box and some main wiring .
 
Thanks for the input @ROADTOAD1340. IGot it Installed and the wire connection was under the small panel up on the left side of the bike.

Now I have a blinking FI light.

The engine cranks but I didn’t try to turn it on and run it. I’m gonna run the dealer mode tomorrow after work and see if I can sort out the code..
 
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