If i wait til' 800 miles for first oil change

Over_Easy

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Just saw this again so thought I'd update. Decided to go ahead and change oil and filter and clean/lube/adjust the chain at 650 miles before riding more. Glad I did because that was some dirty oil. And I ran it at idle for about 4-5 minutes and then let it sit to allow oil to fall before draining.

Checked throttle/clutch play, psi and other fluid levels and everything seems to be just fine. Also, jacked idle up from 900 to about 1200 RPM.

USed OE Suzuki 10W-40 oil and OE filter. USed kerosene to clean the chain w/ a grunge brush (what a pain in the arse). Did a very thorough cleaning job - rear sprocket to, lubed it, rode it around the hood and it looked all dirty again (black grease).

Need to re-align chain though after adjusting it is off ever so slightly between the two sides. Need a new cotter pin though (Harbor Freight).



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I'm breaking my bike in motoman's method to better seat the rings, up to 8-9k rpm and let it slow under engine breaking...does this make a difference on changing oil frequency?



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Well I replied to your other posting but with motoman he recommended the fisrt oil change at 20 miles. Not sure when the second was to happen. If you ride maderately an 800 interval should be fine based on the cleanliness of my oil at 642 miles. I changed it last night.
 
Well I replied to your other posting but with motoman he recommended the fisrt oil change at 20 miles.  Not sure when the second was to happen.  If you ride maderately an 800 interval should be fine based on the cleanliness of my oil at 642 miles.  I changed it last night.
FON,

You are correct about the early oil change, but I didn't really get on it until almost 100 miles (maybe I should have changed it then).

Did you have to use the Suzuki oil filter wrench or did you have somehting else in the toolbox to use?
 
If you didn't get on it for the first 100 miles then it's pretty much too late to try and do the MotoMan break in.
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You gotta get that old shiddy oil out. The first oil change is short because there is a LOT of wear in that occurs and fills the Motor oil with metal, and other bits of crap. RPMs make no difference really, best thing to do though would be at least drop the current oil and replace with a high quality bike specific oil. Then at 1000 change the oil AND FILTER.

But I would at least get that break in oil outta there. You'll be surprised at just how much crap is in it.
 
Filter pliers aren't a bad Idea, I have a lot of success with the Suzuki filter tool and now I just use K&N filters with the Nut welded on top.
 
Filter pliers aren't a bad Idea, I have a lot of success with the Suzuki filter tool and now I just use K&N filters with the Nut welded on top.
Very good advice right there!<span style='font-family:arial'></span><span style='font-family:courier'></span><span style='font-family:papyrus'></span>
 
Will temporarily running the engine before draining help to get more of the old oil out?
 
I changed my first oil in my '06 with less than 100 miles. Second change at 600 miles. Now I change every 3,000. In my opinion, (and I don't know too much), 800 before the first change is a bit excessive.
 
Will temporarily running the engine before draining help to get more of the old oil out?
This question could start a revolution, but I believe in draining oil on a cold engine. You'll get more of the dirty oil out of the engine by giving it several hours to drain down to the bottom of the motor. For what it's worth, I'd change the oil and filter now on your bike and every 1,500 miles there after.
 
The first oil change is pretty dirty. My second was also. After that, the oil didn't look too bad at all. Try to change it (and filter) as soon as you can. It doesn't take long at all. I use the Suzuki tool ($6 or so) to remove the oil filter. Works fine. Only take off the right side plastics. Cover the lower part of the pipes with aluminum foil or plastic wrap (if cool!) to prevent oil from getting on them when you remove the filter. Be careful not to overtighten the drain plug.

Keep that chain lubed too.
 
Will temporarily running the engine before draining help to get more of the old oil out?
This question could start a revolution, but I believe in draining oil on a cold engine.  You'll get more of the dirty oil out of the engine by giving it several hours to drain down to the bottom of the motor.  For what it's worth, I'd change the oil and filter now on your bike and every 1,500 miles there after.
Well that's just ridiculous! How do you figure cold oil is going to drain and take all the contaminants with it? Gravity? And is there some point to 1,500 mile oil changes other than wasting a lot of good oil...he said rhetorically?
 
Just let it cool enough so you dont get burned when you let the oil flow. I wait a couple of hours till the oil pan is just warm to the touch then let it drain.
 
OR Before anyone panics... HEat your oil pan with a HAIR DRYER for 4-5 minutes, Heat Gun if you know what your doing, then drain without needing to get exhaust headers hot and stuff...
 
OR  Before anyone panics...  HEat your oil pan with a HAIR DRYER for 4-5 minutes, Heat Gun if you know what your doing, then drain without needing to get exhaust headers hot and stuff...
Funny...I seem to see the ol' hair dryer being used more and more for mods and maintenance.
rock.gif
 
I'm rolling out the door now for a 35m ride to get my first service done for 70 bucks. I figure I might as well have the pro's do it. It'll also give me a reason to look at some of the bikes and gear, etc... lol! Plus... the fun of riding to this dealer on a Sat afternoon adds to it.
 
Will temporarily running the engine before draining help to get more of the old oil out?
This question could start a revolution, but I believe in draining oil on a cold engine.  You'll get more of the dirty oil out of the engine by giving it several hours to drain down to the bottom of the motor.  For what it's worth, I'd change the oil and filter now on your bike and every 1,500 miles there after.
Well that's just ridiculous!  How do you figure cold oil is going to drain and take all the contaminants with it?  Gravity?  And is there some point to 1,500 mile oil changes other than wasting a lot of good oil...he said rhetorically?
It is best to change the oil after the engine has been running and brought up to temp. The reason behind this is the particles are in suspension in the oil and will be drained with the oil. If you let it sit and cool some of the particles will fall to the bottom of the pan and form sludge.
 
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