First oil change

[URBAN COWBOY]

Hey guys I'm gonna change my engine oil in my '04 Busa at 20 miles and then again at 600 miles. How hard is it to change the oil and filter on these bikes? Do you have to take off all the fairing to do it? What is the average time you guys are doing it in?

 

[billbell]

Oil change is pretty easy. You only have to take off the lower right side. Alot of people also put aluminum foil over there pipes when they go to take the filter off so they don't get oil all over them.

 

[mctrull]

I use one of the filter wrenches that fit over the end of the filter and you insert a 3/8" socket drive into it to remove the filter. I hear that the strap wrenches work too. Do not strip your pan bolt. You do realize that if you do not take it to the dealer for the first service, it will void you warranty. I would not throw that away.

 

[Juggler]

I'd follow mctrull's recommendation. Take it to the dealer. You'll get reamed, but at least you won't be screwing around with the warranty.

Oh, the next oil change, the aluminum foil thing is a good idea. Otherwise, oil gets all over the place, and it takes awhile to stop the smoking.

 

[URBAN COWBOY]

I use one of the filter wrenches that fit over the end of the filter and you insert a 3/8" socket drive into it to remove the filter. I hear that the strap wrenches work too. Do not strip your pan bolt. You do realize that if you do not take it to the dealer for the first service, it will void you warranty. I would not throw that away.

Yeah I did hear about that. Suzuki is going to make sure you give them more money even after the sale. I'll let them do the first oil/filter change, but after that I'm doing them.

 

[chain]

You do realize that if you do not take it to the dealer for the first service, it will void you warranty.

Not true.

I've been doing my own service on my bikes for 15 years. There's this little matter of the Magnuson-Moss Act, enacted by Congress in 1975, that protects me (and anyone else here who wants to avoid paying excessively high service fees at their local dealerships).

Among other things, the Act demanded that manufacturers offer a clear and easliy understood document that spells out certain information about coverage. The document is binding, as in, it's the law.

The point?

The written warranty is the written warranty, and Suzuki cannot decide not to cover your bike because you decided to turn your own wrenches on it for basic maintenace OR because you chose to use something other than the "motorcycle" oil they rip you off for at the dealership (I use $1.45/qt Shell Rotella dino "truck" oil in my bike, purchased from Wal-Mart and with great results, but that's another thread in and of itself).

Vehicle manufacturers recommend lubricants according to their viscosity grade and service classification. Any oil, whether it’s conventional dino or synthetic, may be used without affecting warranty coverage. It doesn't matter who puts that oil in the engine either. All you have to do is buy oil that matches the service class in the owners manual, buy a quality filter (I use OEM) and keep the receipts.

I'm not a lawyer, but I'm no dummy either, and I don't throw my money away at the "stealership" unless it's absolutely necessary.

I did my first service just today as a matter of fact, home in my garage with a cold beer in hand, and did so for about $16 total.

opdsgt



<!--EDIT|opdsgt
Reason for Edit: "typo"|1093056807 -->

 

[epicrisis]

Opdsgt... that seems very unclear, could you be more specific?

 

[epicrisis]

Just kidding.

 

[epicrisis]

Everything I have heard supports what OPDSGT says. I worked for a Suzuki dealership for several years, and the only way the dealer could hit you is if you missed a schedualed maintenance or you made a change to the bike that made it perform outside of it's intended operating range (Temp, suspension etc).

 

[Glyn]

You do realize that if you do not take it to the dealer for the first service, it will void you warranty.

Not true.

I've been doing my own service on my bikes for 15 years. There's this little matter of the Magnuson-Moss Act, enacted by Congress in 1975, that protects me (and anyone else here who wants to avoid paying excessively high service fees at their local dealerships).

Among other things, the Act demanded that manufacturers offer a clear and easliy understood document that spells out certain information about coverage. The document is binding, as in, it's the law.

The point?

The written warranty is the written warranty, and Suzuki cannot decide not to cover your bike because you decided to turn your own wrenches on it for basic maintenace OR because you chose to use something other than the "motorcycle" oil they rip you off for at the dealership (I use $1.45/qt Shell Rotella dino "truck" oil in my bike, purchased from Wal-Mart and with great results, but that's another thread in and of itself).

Vehicle manufacturers recommend lubricants according to their viscosity grade and service classification. Any oil, whether it’s conventional dino or synthetic, may be used without affecting warranty coverage. It doesn't matter who puts that oil in the engine either. All you have to do is buy oil that matches the service class in the owners manual, buy a quality filter (I use OEM) and keep the receipts.

I'm not a lawyer, but I'm no dummy either, and I don't throw my money away at the "stealership" unless it's absolutely necessary.

I did my first service just today as a matter of fact, home in my garage with a cold beer in hand, and did so for about $16 total.

opdsgt

I agree 100%.

If you are capable, change your own oil.
Keep reciepts or some kind of documentation to prove the work was done.

Next question.
20 miles?

100, maybe,
600, perfect,
1000, overdue.


BTW Good luck with the new bike

 

[URBAN COWBOY]

I talked to the guys at the dealership and they told me that as long as I use their oil (go figure) and keep the receipts, I won't void my warrantee if I change my own oil. Since my last post I drained the original oil at 300miles (didn't change the filter though) and added Suzuki's 10w-40 oil. When I reach 600 miles I'm going to do the oil and filter change. I'll probably stick with Suzuki's oil and filters and change it every 3k miles after this. Cost me about 20 bucks for 4 quarts and 1 filter.

URBAN COWBOY

 

[chain]

<sigh>

What they told you about using only "their oil" in order to preserve your warranty is pure, unadulterated bullshit, but at least you saved some money doing your own work. Congratulations Cowboy, you're off in the right direction.

Me, I don't buy oil with a little picture of a motorcycle on the bottle. I know, I know, babies die because of this, the sky is falling and my warranty is null and void, yadda yadda.

WRONG.

The same Act I cited above covers you even if you don't buy "Suzuki Motorcycle Oil" - if the slippery stuff you select is within the service grade parameters stated in the owners manual, you're good to go. All you have to do is stay away from energy conserving oils as they have packages that can (not always) cause clutch slippage.

I buy Shell Rotella T truck oil for $5.86 a gallon at Wal-Mart. It's a perennial top performer in sundry industry tests for viscosity and thermal breakdown, and is a superb super-duty oil that's totally acceptable for the wet clutch environment of your motorcycle.

Here, check out a couple links on the stuff...

http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t.html

-AND-

http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=81

Laughing all the way to the bank...

opdsgt

 

[Rocketman]

Now I'm finding my way around... here's where the discussion about oil is.

Any problems using Rotella T 15w-40 in the bike? And is there any problem using that as my first oil change?

Why'd I chose that viscosity? Didn't think that 10w to 15w would matter on the high-revving engine. In fact, I thought it would be better for that hot burner. But I need learnin' here.

Anyone have any facts that support why or why not to my questions?

You guys rock for all the help you give. Thanks!

 

[Plunk]

Changing after the first 20 is a good idea. I see you read the moto-man break-in theory. I used it on my baby and the engine is in excellent shape. I've got stock baseline dyno numbers to prove it too. I promise you, it'll scare the poo outta you when you change the oil at 20 miles. It'll amaze you just how much loose crap is in there. It's a really fine sludge but it sucks up to the magnet on the drain plug tip. I highly recommend the 20 mile change. Then the second at 600.

 

[Rocketman]

Thanks for the info. Just to clarify, I'm at 700 miles now. I did the change at 600 miles using the Rotella T 15W-40.

Am I in trouble using that at this juncture?

I saw the sludge... that was wierd. I've not seen that ever. (Mainly cause my bikes in the past were used.)

 

[ralnsplder]

You do realize that if you do not take it to the dealer for the first service, it will void you warranty.

Not true.

I've been doing my own service on my bikes for 15 years. There's this little matter of the Magnuson-Moss Act, enacted by Congress in 1975, that protects me (and anyone else here who wants to avoid paying excessively high service fees at their local dealerships).

Among other things, the Act demanded that manufacturers offer a clear and easliy understood document that spells out certain information about coverage. The document is binding, as in, it's the law.

The point?

The written warranty is the written warranty, and Suzuki cannot decide not to cover your bike because you decided to turn your own wrenches on it for basic maintenace OR because you chose to use something other than the "motorcycle" oil they rip you off for at the dealership (I use $1.45/qt Shell Rotella dino "truck" oil in my bike, purchased from Wal-Mart and with great results, but that's another thread in and of itself).

Vehicle manufacturers recommend lubricants according to their viscosity grade and service classification. Any oil, whether it’s conventional dino or synthetic, may be used without affecting warranty coverage. It doesn't matter who puts that oil in the engine either. All you have to do is buy oil that matches the service class in the owners manual, buy a quality filter (I use OEM) and keep the receipts.

I'm not a lawyer, but I'm no dummy either, and I don't throw my money away at the "stealership" unless it's absolutely necessary.

I did my first service just today as a matter of fact, home in my garage with a cold beer in hand, and did so for about $16 total.

opdsgt

Only thing with the act is, it the service still ahs to be done by a cetrified mechanic. If someone does fail due to someone else doing it, the warranty do not have to cover it. (IE, if you strip you drain bolt blow your engine) . The first service is not just about oil change. They check over the entire bike and retighten everything. They even adjusted my fuel system. It was running a little rich. First time something comes loose and jacks something up and you take it to the dealer, they are going to want to see about your 600 service and if it was done by a certified mechanic. If not, they do not have to support your warranty. I have found this information out from a lawyer. To be safe, it is just better to have them do the first one. Any one can change oil and a filter. Notice they do not require you to do all of your services there, just the first one so they can go over the bike. Really it is for your safty too. If it doesn't get checked out and something comes loose at 150, it isn't going to be pretty. Worse off is that if you do live, you can't even sue anyone to get some pay for it. They will say it is your own fault for not taking it to be checked.

Just my opinion. DON"T BE CHEAP. let them or a certified suzuki mechanic do the first one.

 

[Rocketman]

Good advice everyone.

I'll middle of the road it. I'll get the service done by Suzuki here in Utah. From there on out, I'll do my own oil changes and have them look at it every what... 5000 miles?

I like to have someone who knows about bikes inside and out, take a look at things and get it right. I'm also about doing what I can, myself.

So off I go to have them check things out. they're giving me the service for $50 which is 1/2 off.

thanks.

 

[ralnsplder]

I wouldn't worry about them checking it out for you every 5000 miles if there is nothing acting up. Glad you got the service for $50 It cost me $185 for the dealer to do the 600 for me. as long as you do regualr maintenance, the bike should run forever, well almost lol

 

[Turbo-Torch]

Only thing with the act is, it the service still ahs to be done by a cetrified mechanic.[/QUOTE]

Anyone can do their own wrenching on their vehicles without voiding the warranty. Everything Opdsgt said is spot on accurate. Document everything and save receipts.
Also show me a piece of paper, link from Suzuki...ANYTHING that says your warranty is void if you don't have the dealer do the 600 mile break in service. I won't be holding my breath.

If someone does fail due to someone else doing it, the warranty do not have to cover it. (IE, if you strip you drain bolt blow your engine) .[/QUOTE]

Stripped drain plug? Apples and oranges...if I run the bike into a brick wall they won't cover it either. If the engine blows up for no apparent reason you damn well better believe they WILL cover it under warranty.

The first service is not just about oil change. They check over the entire bike and retighten everything.[/QUOTE]

Got the manual right here. Oil change, tighten the chain, retorque chasis bolts and a few misc checks. Took me all of an hour.
Maybe you should read some of the dealer horror stories that have been posted on this very forum. The type where someone takes it up the rear when they get billed an outrageous amount for the 600 mile service and then find out the FRAM filter they installed (during a pre 600 mile oil change just to be safe) was still there after the dealer supposedly had done the 600 mile service.

Most dealers, if your lucky, will change out the oil and hopefully the filter, rev the engine a few times and bill you. Hopefully when they're done you only receive a few minor scratches on your fairings and the bike still runs as good as when you rode it in.

Some people seem to think a bunch of guys in long white lab coats come out, hook all kinds of special meters to the bike, perform a lab analysis on the oil and finally the POPE comes by and lays his hands on it before giving it back to the customer.

If not, they do not have to support your warranty. I have found this information out from a lawyer.[/QUOTE]

Yes they do have to support my warranty. Who's this lawyer? I'd like to ask him where in the written warranty or what page number out of the owners manual he found his information.

Just my opinion. DON"T BE CHEAP. let them or a certified suzuki mechanic do the first one.[/QUOTE]

Oh? Why only the FIRST one? Your chasis bolts are supposed to be tightened every 3500 miles or 6 months. Are you running your bike by the dealer everytime that needs to be done? If not, according to you your warranty will be VOID. I really hope you didn't opt for the extended 5 year warranty. I can only imagine how expensive that will get when you run it by the dealer for all those little inpections and checks every few months.

 

[ralnsplder]

For one how do they know if you actually tightened everything on your own? they don't. For the only the first one, that is all that is required.

OK so let me get this straight, If I go out and buy a computer with the little tape on the back that says removing this will void warrenty, I decide to go awaed and remove it and stick my hand in there and fry everything because I didn't ground my self first, they will still have to warrenty it?? I don't think so.

"Stripped drain plug? Apples and oranges...if I run the bike into a brick wall they won't cover it either. If the engine blows up for no apparent reason you damn well better believe they WILL cover it under warranty."

If you blow it because you neglected to do something that was to be done or you didn't do something right, no they do not have to cover it, You are not certified so you shouldn't be doing work and expect them to fix it for free after you mess it up. I didn't say you had to take it to a dealer I said certified mechanic. Why would they have to pay for something that a backyard mechanic tried to fix.

SO also in other words I can go out there and stick the crappiest oil in it and run the piss out of it blow it up and they will fix it as long as I have the reciept??? What if I don't bother to change the oil , but I still have a reciept? just because I bought the oil, doesnt mean I used it. Do they still have to cover it then? Just out of curiosity, just because you bought the items and have a reciept, how do they know how many miles were on it when it was done? I could buy oil and change the first time at 12000. I think to avoid problems, it is just easier to let them do it and mark the mileage.

I would like to see that happen, or how about racing I guess you can run it anyway you want it and still expect them to cover it huh?

Anyway I'm not trying to argue here, Just letting him know what I was told, Maybe you know everything and everyone else is wrong. Im just sure if you can afford a $11000 bike you can afford to have them do a service at 600 miles. I guess your suggestion for those of out there that really do not know what they are doing is to go ahead and risk the chance of problems with bike and the possibility of them getting really hurt just to save a dime. Just because you can do your own work doesn't mean that everyone that has a bike can do it or should be doing it. Ive been a mechanic for about 9 yrs, yet I still let the dealer do the first service. There is a reason there is a break in period. this is where everything can come loose due to factory putting it together. Why would you take a chance of something coming apart while you are on it because you missed something due to lack of know how?

Once again, if you know everything, this is not a problem.

Ohh here is what I was given at dealership, I know it is crap but it was still given to me.