I think I’m screwed!

It was looking so good too...

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If the dealer says no, I have full insurance. I’m sure my premium would go up but I could go that route. I’ve never had to use my insurance for anything.

I wish I already knew the insurance outcome. Because it’d be intriguing if insurance totaled it out and if I could possibly re-buy it with a salvage title. Then go have it fixed. But boy that’s a gamble...
 
I’ve still gotta figure out what caused it to break so I don’t do it again. Here are my home-made lowering links. I made them from Home Depot bar steel. After I know for sure the spacing, I was gonna have my brother-in-law machine up some nice stainless steel ones.

Also the spring was a Trac Dynamics 17.9kg. The stretch is 6-10 and I’m about 180 lbs. So in TD’s range of not requiring a re-valve. I went with the stronger spring because I wanted a stiffer ride than my last hayabusa.

Since the links were cheap metal I wasn’t gonna take it on the highway. After putting it together I did a circle around the neighborhood. That’s when I noticed the spring was too stiff. It had some give but not quite enough. I parked the bike for the night and was gonna remove the spring in the morning to make it not so stiff.

Could the stiff spring have caused this tab to break?

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If I remember right the extra length of the link was pointing down. It clearly had plenty of room and wasn’t going to touch or rub anything.

I left extra room in case the distance wasn’t correct and I needed to drill new holes at a different spacing.
 
If I remember right the extra length of the link was pointing down. It clearly had plenty of room and wasn’t going to touch or rub anything.

I left extra room in case the distance wasn’t correct and I needed to drill new holes at a different spacing.
Think c10 is hinting that this was not a casting defect which can be seen by the clean break with no air pockets. The spring tension did not break it off downwards it could only have been from side pressure from the shock bolt being over tightened & or cocked at an angel by the links possibly. I don't see how dealer will eat a break like yours as it is not a failure. Very sorry talk to a welder before doing alot of work putting back stock.
 
I’m still baffled, I followed the book. The cushion lever can physically only be put in one way. All bolts were torqued to spec.

If I need to take this to a welder will the one side be strong enough to hold up the rear end?
 
I find it staggering Suzuki would use white aluminum at a stress point like this. Any side stresses would snap it just like it did on yours.
 
What are you doing? Delete all of this now. Put it back to stock right now and bring it to the dealership. Tell them you were riding the bike and it started to ride funny and you looked under the bike and found that. Make sure your trailer it there. Delete all this stuff. I would say that frame was defective.
 
Best outcome would be warranty replacement. Why not try for that first before settling on a weld that would likely fail at some point? Warranty would be a manufacturer expense, not a dealer expense, so it seems like the dealer would do everything they could to help you get it covered.
 
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