Home made TRE Problems ****Please Help!

Detroit Busa

I decided to try to do the home made TRE today...... I read several posts on how to do this simply with a 6.8 ohm resistor.

I followed this one in particular 2000 Suzuki Hayabusa Modifications : Timing Retard Eliminator - TRE

The install went great, But after when I started my bike it flashed a f1 code.... I read how to put the bike in dealer mode to read the code. It was a C31 gear position signal switch.

I put the bike back to stock and the code went away...... is this homemade tre flawed or is there something I missed.

Please Help!


Hayabusa Immortal
Staff member
It appears you did not connect something right. Also .... it is a 6.8"K" (6800) ohm resistor instead of a 6.8 ohm resistor.

Measure the voltage from the pink wire to going to the ecu, it should be about 4.42 volts.

It sounds like you have used a 6.8 ohm resistor or shorted the pink to ground. Anything much less than .6 volts (guessing about 200 ohms) will trigger an FI/C31 code.

Detroit Busa

your the man...... that is exactly what i did (used a 6.8 ohm instead of a 6.8k ohm 1/4 watt resistor)

thanks alot man


Listen to J-Cheeze. The unit will code your dash. The tre does not... I will repeat dis... The tre does not retard the timing. Never did, never will. It is like you toggle the thing on the fly, you code the ECU when you short any sensor with a code.

The bike does not use 5th gear as you can read in the factory service manual, the c31 defaults to the locked 6th or the lowest volt reading is called?

So, no matter watt you do, you need to understand ohm's law is the book states:

1. Connector not connected will cause a code.
2. A wire out of the connector clips will cause a code. See how that wire is being exposed to the air and goes nowhere>?
3. A code will set if you ground the wire but does not blow a fuse is a resistor to take the heat up, not a smoked wire harness wire down the whole length of the harness.

:rulez: :moon: If you did your homework like 10 years ago, I wouldn't be on J-Cheezears case. He has no clue is just says not to use it... Maybe he knows now. :poke:

:rofl: Ivan... You Sap! You owe your customers an explanation. :whistle:


Please provide detailed descriptive info backing up your opinions here.
OH Boy! More sweeTREats! NOooooooooooo Not another! "WTFATre?"

"If you say no...how, why and what...exactly?" No, if you want better gas mileage. No, if you rather run a slower, smoother ring tone out the exhaust is stay stock.

"If you say yes...how, why and what..exactly?"
Well, yes, of course you are sending a faster compute signal is one, so you are going to feel that slight bump. Yes, here comes a slight performance ring-a-ding-ding.

"Advantages are?" Plenty and none. Limp goes the note. You think you are running all hot with that setup because of the faster calc. That is one main advantage you have is some low grunt, mild on the throttle rip.

"Disadvantages are ?" I can run the exhaust note signals and come away with poor gas mileage running the same normal pace in the vid is to be consistent like a dyno pull.

The question was asked at another forum about the exhaust pop. They said the tre would clear it up. I tried it out as you will see; Found a surprise. In my helmet I could not hear any pop. The video says otherwise. Thought I'd show you the tre ain'ta poppin' I run my universal trick at it. No codes sent to the dasha.

Lookey ear. I can sneak this tuneup under the nose of the AMA racing organization if I were racing computer bikes not carb bikes. So, I can't give this combination out I need some PC and a pipe to do damage on the streeta is treatcha to a tone signal.

- Rail Wax oN Tune it Off.wmv[/url]

Blanca, One of the reasons I hang out in a Busa site is to show you how the electronics are universal like a carburetor say. Say they use the same basic principals between Mikuni and and Amal parts. Stuff like that.

So when the tre comes up, I sorta head up the hill, point out a tre and then point out ME is gonna getcha!

Munch and crunch on your pipes and Pc is see? We no need no piggy if you diggy. :rofl:

Fundamental case is case closed. :rulez: Get it?

You know, like Rickey G with the Kawi commercials? "Come Get ME!?" :thumbsup:

:laugh: Only Luge racers die. Not tre threads, Blanca. >> :banghead:


Site Sponsor
Another TRE post.sweet

2busa, unplugging the gps sensor will NOT cause a FI code on the dash.
Removing one of the wires from the gps sensor will NOT cause a code on the dash.

TRE is a worthless thing to put on the bike because it makes the ECU run 5th gear fueling and ignition maps at all times, you basically deleted a ton of what the ecu had in it by making it run in 5th gear all the time.

Detroit Busa, I am also in the Detroit area, if you want your bike de-restricted no problem ill flash your ecu for you or build you one of these Cycle . If you want 5th gear timing values in all gears, no problem I can reflash the ecu for you to accomplish this. Neither of these 2 methods will cause the bike to run 5th gear ram air compensated fuel values at all times.


Another TRE post.sweet

2busa, unplugging the gps sensor will NOT cause a FI code on the dash.
I want to you to tell Suzuki they have their abstract incorrect in the shop manual.
1. Wire out of socket = Code
2. Connector not connected (plugged in) = Code
3. Short to ground = Code

Smitha, ah, "uncoupling" is Suzuki abstract. Watt say ye?

Removing one of the wires from the gps sensor will NOT cause a code on the dash.
("Unit-or-Wire-or-Coupler-or-Gear shift cam, etc." Pg. 4-35). Watt Say Ye?

TRE is a worthless thing to put on the bike because it makes the ECU run 5th gear fueling and ignition maps at all times, you basically deleted a ton of what the ecu had in it by making it run in 5th gear all the time.
Page 4-31 (1999-2000 Busa FSM) "Gear position signal fixed to 6th gear." WATT SAY YE?

If you want 5th gear timing values in all gears, no problem I can reflash the ecu for you to accomplish this. Neither of these 2 methods will cause the bike to run 5th gear ram air compensated fuel values at all times.
Could you explain why you would use 5th, the factory would use 6th. WATT do you know that [they do not] they built the system, use 6th as the default. Why use 5th? Is this the rpm limiter? Well, if hard is generic between FI's practical events, then hard is the higher rpm level. Tell me I am wrong, because I am using simple steps to watch how basic generic FI operated from the factory shop manuals. Really, I am dying to hear what ye has yet to say about you writing to Suzuki, tell them about that 5th gear default. Cause they have it wrong in the book and I presented my evidence. Well, part of it. The rest still rests on that code page if you know how to read the "Yes" parts when the bike codes it still runs, 'yes.'

:rulez: Don't look at me. I did not write Ohm's Law is watt he saw is do you? It is more, he figured out the 4th dimension to the 3 variables. :whistle: So, either I am wrong reading both the Busa and the 14 factory shop manuals, or you know something Suz does not.

I got double barrels (Busa/14 = ECU's) aimed right square in your cranium there, Smitha. Both use 6th gear. You say different. :moon: Slow me watt chew got or my face is this red, I'm lost (oh sure I am). I'm ah go look for that popcorn icon, you don't hurry back with the answers. This should be so easy like explaining 4 or 2 stroke basics. It is so absolute in steps, you better tread it well. Can't suck and fire without first compression being in the middle. It's like I'm reading, 'go to suck then fire, we don't use that here at our lab [compression that is]. I'm writing how the OTTOperates. That is why tre threads are fun.

Remember, I 'rail wax,' if you knowattie mean. Flash? I think I can flash on the fly. And if you stay in the analog, is that not the slower ah, calc calc calc calc calc calcah << Sounds like, Pop Eye the sale or man, watt gives? :rofl:


So, watt you are saying is that you could not follow FI, therefore you state the 5th gear fallacy. This is basic book theory, not jibberish.

You contradicted what the book says, where you said all the basic abstract given [3-variables] explained in the trouble-tree are incorrect. Therefore, you dispute what sets off a code by 3 examples. Your 'jibberish' says otherwise. This is the debate, not arguing about a theory, but understanding the concept. It's like arguing the OTTO-cycle. How can you argue the 4-strokes is what I am asking.

The argument would be your denial of compression or the second stroke as in the beginning step is the intake, then compression. YOu being in denial of compression is to argue with a fool. That is the difference. I bring book (6)Locked. You bring a 5th gear variable from the air is tell the world where did you find 5th gear as the default signal you attempt to redesign the GPS internals to read 5th gear, when the tre defaults it to the 6-locked.

You logic says set the GPS and you get 5th. The jibberish in the FSM says the default goes 6 no matter what resistor you throw at it, she reads (6)Locked. That is how I threw resistor after resistor at the same wire. It still came up locked in the dash = 6 as per what the book says it will step to.

How can I bring up what you say, does not walk the laws of Ohm. You are even disputing the man Ohman are you. Lets take it one step at a time. You said, Smitha, you said that there is no code possible, we remove a wire from the coupler/connector = Means the same thing. :poke:

Someone is contradicting the other. I just want to get to the bottom of this and if the book points out the obvious, why cannot you explain that if you remove a wire from the connector it codes as per abstract in the pages I pointed out. Or the coupler is removed, it codes, or the sensor grounds itself, is this not the 3 fundamental basic variables to look for? We ignore your wire out she does not code?

Do we want to battle GPS signals we disconnect the couplers we code videos? We ground a wire, we code = Tre. Or, we smash the sensor, see if we can code the same thing. Did I give you enough jibberish to dispute your claim about the dash signal can be had 3 ways? Am I going nuts, we need to tell Suzuki to rewrite their book is call them, say they are wrong?

Smitha, I am walking a code set. What exactly are you saying as you talk it? I told you, I will use your words against you as to the walk of the Otto cycle is as exacting as FI... As in STEPS to the code set. Get it?

If you're gonna run withe big boys, you better have the right gear on, let alone be in the right gear, I need a dash to ride the rail. :thumbsup:

:rulez: Take a shot at it, Smitha. It's not like it's rocket science, but yeah, it is. Tell one switch to do a task via wire travel is switch from analog to digital is that switching. So, switch is it? :rofl:


Site Sponsor
Your posts have a lot of words in them, ill agree with you on that.

Go start your hayabusa, make sure kickstand is up, unplug your gps sensor, FI Light will NOT NOT NOT come on.

If you read the manual it states if voltage is less than .6 volts or so on the gps circuit, it will set a code. That circuit is a 5 volt pullup resistor, when you unplug the sensor, it will float up to 5 volts, and either put ecu in 6th gear map or neutral map, not a thousand percent sure. It will NOT set the light. To get voltage that low yes you would need a short from the red wire to ground.

I proved you wrong on your theories of gps operation a while back on suzuki vs kawasaki. Please.....proceed to ramble, i am done arguing.


Donating Member
I agree with everyone on this thread except 2busa and I wont explain why. :laugh: I should have known not to look at a tre thread. :banghead:

Yut Ugh


I like, 'douche nozzle' for a funny. The hat thing? Old hat! Anyway, How do you explain this?
1. One wire from the GPS throws the N light on.
2. One wire from the GPS sets the 6.
3. Uncouple the connectors, both the 6 lock on, the dash flashes the FI, you do not see the N light come on, because this was the circuit for gear position to light the N bulb.

So, just now, coming back from a test, I threw the N wire. I threw the 6 wire, I got off the bike, uncoupled the GPS, got the 6 and FI to flash on the dash. Wanna know what the bike ran like with all 3 variables running different maps it defaulted to? :rofl:

And, I have a trans-hack that changes the gear maps to a more plush shift. Wanna keep going? So, I hack a wire, I do not code the dash. I just came back from a ride, hacked the N without the green light coming on.

Can you explain that? I just made the tre obsolete where you get your gear position numbers back. :beerchug: :whistle: How didie do that is die before I tell you the simple trick.

"Year killing me, Larry!" :rofl:
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