Home made TRE Problems ****Please Help!

Tre lock fifth timing and fuel curve. Lie to yourself all you want with your false knowledge and spread misinformation here. Seems the mods don't mind your nonsense so have a good one bro. I don't need to respond to your nonsense anymore. I know for a fact your wrong along with 99% of others here. If you wanna live in denial and troll/potstir go ahead. Nothing else to say from here.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Tre lock fifth timing and fuel curve.
Again, anyone can look up how the manual is read.

Lie to yourself all you want with your false knowledge and spread misinformation here.
In other words, the manual is wrong? Those are your words is lie to yourself. Again, I ask those that have a home made or store bought, what is the dash reading? Does the code follow the page which steps to the abstract so as to understand the code page you have a problem with the bike.


Seems the mods don't mind your nonsense so have a good one bro.
This is pretty technical stuff. My approach is to humor you with the boring details. I want you to be as fast on that bike as you can be. You want to make the bike faster, you might want to start with the fundamental aspect of the bike. I did not say this was going to be easy you want an edge on someone's tuning setup.

I don't need to respond to your nonsense anymore. I know for a fact your wrong along with 99% of others here. If you wanna live in denial and troll/potstir go ahead. Nothing else to say from here.
You are placing words in my mouth again. How is it that I'm working on technical type questions to get a member's bike back running again? Does that sound like trolling I speak general bike knowledge?

Hey, it may not be specific to the brand, but you can apply it to any bike. As long as you keep what [YOU] think is incorrect information according to the shop manual [I read from], you might be a troll, you spewing fallacy about gear selection to default modes.

Once again, not one of you that is complaining that you think I do not know what is UP with fuel injection, I have yet to see proof otherwise. So, if I troll with the FSM under my arm, follow how the bike works as per page is call me a troll with that, locked-6 right there in print.

Yeah, and where does that leave the author with the 'problems.' Have you focused on helping or trolling on me is point the finger at me I have a home made problem with a tre? :rofl:

All I ask is bring any type of proof from Mikuni that the FSM has misprinted the number 6 and not 5th gear as the lock. From 1999 to this day, not one manual change has there been a change to the fallacy 5th. It is that simple a proof is to challenge the factory you have the right information. Otherwise, call customer service, then hand me the phone. :thumbsup:
 
Instead of arguing over right or wrong,why not produce the info from the manual. Can't argue logic if you have the proof the logic is there. :whistle:
 
....maybe the manual is WRONG! I've been working long enough to know that things can and will be misprinted from time to time. Doesn't matter if it's Suzuki/Kawasaki/NASA/whatever.... :whistle:

You can quote the manual all day long but if the bike doesn't do what the manual says it should, then what.... :poke:
 
You can quote the manual all day long but if the bike doesn't do what the manual says it should, then what.... :poke:
The code does what it says in the book. I've witnessed the fail-safe follow the words exactly from the book. Kind of neat to watch. Nothing has changed since 1999's first conception.
 
My car has no cats and no mil. My rear o2s aren't even plugged in. Care to babble about that one.
Sure. I also can run without mil (flashing FI in the dash) because the code is set, you just do not feel how subtle you set the code with the resistor is it? I can set codes without the dash flash off of many sensors. The thing is, I feel that hacked tone as if it was coded.

If it doesn't lock fifth them why would the dash show 5th?
Because, I too have seen the 5th in the dash lock in place. You foot cycle, shift up to 6th gear then click down to 5th gear, you will see the 6 lock. Try it. Either way, I can feel the code set before you know you are in the locked 6. Which brings up a question. Since 1999, are you telling me you have never seen the 6 number locked in the shift window you install a tre? How come the book says it will lock the 6.
 
The Professor solved the original problem for the guy last year. How about we give it a rest now.

How was that solved? Give it a rest? I have Smitha to answer this for me. I read this off his website so the quote is: "Ability to tune secondary throttle blade opening (don't remove those secondary flies you will loose hp)"

Smitha, ^^^ How could you lose HP removing the secondaries? What did you find if no codes are set if you just remove the plates. Fuel trim has not changed code wise.
 
The 02 watt nonsense your spewing seems to me to be from the mil coming on from removing cats? You can throw the rear 02s in the trash since they can be disabled in the ecu, or yet again are you ready for this trade secret. You can put a resistor in the rear 02s and it eliminates the code.

Completely unrelated from the TRE discussion, you can't just use the resistor on ~07 or newer cars. If you want it disabled, you have to get a custom tune. I also think it's silly to pull the cats on a daily driver, but that's another can of worms. :D
 
How was that solved?

If you read back to the beginning, the guy was using the wrong ohm resistor in his home made TRE.


Give it a rest? I have Smitha to answer this for me. I read this off his website so the quote is: "Ability to tune secondary throttle blade opening (don't remove those secondary flies you will loose hp)"

Smitha, ^^^ How could you lose HP removing the secondaries? What did you find if no codes are set if you just remove the plates. Fuel trim has not changed code wise.

All of this this arguing back and forth about who knows more about FI theory and how its applied to the Hayabusa is off the original topic. Yes give it a rest.
 
Several busa tuners have seen decrease in hp with secondary blafes removed, zx14 trsponds opposite from what i read/hear. Ecu editor allows uou to do whatever u want with upper blades regarding when they open etc
Posted via Mobile Device
 
If you read back to the beginning, the guy was using the wrong ohm resistor in his home made TRE.
Thanks, Whipped. I am going to add my little :laugh: here about a different resistor being used.

We are missing the diagnostics to the tre. We do not need a certain resistor. We can use any resistor. All a resistor does basically is act as a heat sink. That heat means the harness wire is not the resistor that burns all the way up the harness is that heat travel.

Now, if I uncouple = 6-Lock. If I remove a wire from the coupler = 6-Lock. And the last fundamental variable is if she grounds with any single reading heat sink, she codes the 6-Locked in the dash. You did not need to spend the cash on the dash. :rofl: That is basic book theory.

So, to move to a step more complicated, we have a single resistor sending 7 signals, (1-N-2-3-4-5-6) not 7 individual resistors tied in series. You can stop the bike in 3rd gear and start the bike. You did not see any code because the ECU recognizes the resistance, i.e., the analog (multi-signals).

When the bike shifts in the next gear, there is the next resistance read. Once you shift with the tre, that one resistor signal (single-signal), or the digital signal as opposed to the analog signal is read instead. Does not that sound like a short/unconnected/wire out of connector?

That on individual signal is a code setter. The seconds go by without the change in gear to that balanced resistance, then watt happens is that [read] bleeds through that one ohm read to ground [upsets the balance] and then through the wire it heads to the ECU to compute.
---------------------------------------------------------------



All of this this arguing back and forth about who knows more about FI theory and how its applied to the Hayabusa is off the original topic. Yes give it a rest.

"argument - a course of reasoning aimed at demonstrating a truth or falsehood"

"debated - disputed, under discussion, not settled"


All this back and forth about tre/ECU/Fundamental basics and how it applies is all about the Hayabusa and has yet to sway from the thread.
"Home made tre" say I have been chasing that tre 3 different ways. The 4th dimension is to comprehend what is FI theory to chase that problem.

That ford 02 hose manure cat spray wire rig is as simple as the tre and owns the same principals. So, the stangang with their car tre is fun due men till I'm blue in the face is discuss the tre thing a ding.

No one is pointing a gun to your head you need to click on this thread and tell others to stop discussing the debate and/or argument? I do not see it harming you, I have a mouse that does not click on tre threads kind of finger. :laugh:

Besides, this is a car wreck in slow motion someone said.
 
Several busa tuners have seen decrease in hp with secondary blafes removed, zx14 trsponds opposite from what i read/hear. Ecu editor allows uou to do whatever u want with upper blades regarding when they open etc
Posted via Mobile Device

How can you have two identical bikes that have about 1HP difference between them, remove one secondary and that runs the opposite of the other? You believe that theory? :poke: :rofl: That is 1 horse is sheet pile of... That is a whole different thread altogether. :laugh:


Fueling is the same, BUT air velocity/flow isnt
Posted via Mobile Device

Smitha, Do you see me question your abstract in your website? I know the fueling is the same. And I know the velocity is the same we have the engines sitting on a bench or plumbed through the bike, they make 1HP between them stock flow.
I'm seeing a basic tuning step (cough-cough) out of theory/practical is the event; is separate the men from the boys who tune the tune. I think that line in your website is misleading as are both of these quotes I take is use your words against you as you have a new :rulez:?

You mean, one engine sucks on the valve close (remember that 1HP diff) is different? How so? :whistle:
 
I started to type a reply....then realized thats what you are fishing for...

Have a good weekend, cant deal with you anymore, ill enjoy my new family instead.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
I started to type a reply....then realized thats what you are fishing for...

Have a good weekend, cant deal with you anymore, ill enjoy my new family instead.
Posted via Mobile Device

Ah, Smitha? I'm not getting on your case. I am reading what the unit does as you described. How could you not deal with a question I asked? You started to write and then I think you more stumbled trying to see it their way and then I ask the same theory my way and that I would assume stopped you from typing. You sound like a racer with an excuse saying it's the bike's fault you did not win.

Someone could reel off a few sentences and be done with the theory. I mean, I can tell you how absolute the bike closes on the valve with every engine stroke. You do not swap out sensors from idle to red line is what I mean. The engine is going to suck the same or you would have to change sensors. One reason the absolute works in this vacuum we live in. WOT was so hard about that?

I'm talking basic engine theory. This you can apply to any bike. If the bike needs no GPS, swings the gate open faster is the tre trick, how did the same event happen sooner [is all it did] if it sucks the same amount all the time? Don't you see the same A/F ratio pinned at some fuel to air rpm speed? It's revving away with the same feed...sans the rev up to and sustained to show steady A/F ratios.

So, if you removed both secondaries from both bikes, would not the same 1HP difference be there? :rulez::laugh:
If that made any sense, you would make that line read as such. :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top